Any ways to check wheel alignment without lazer kit??

Def90man · Dec 18, 2023

Hicap phill said:
if anything is going to bend it’s your drag link between the 2 wheels.
Did you put the c bracket on the diff to protect it?
Does this bar look straight?
Measure front of tyre from left to right
The. Rear of tyre left to right will show if towing in/out

Take drag link off and have a good look at it. If its causing the wheel to be half a turn out you should see the bend easily enough

Hicap phill · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
it drove fine, but i decided best to get insurance involved as was completely none fault.. thats all sorted

Sounds mad but mine had a smash & replaced the bonet & front panel 25years ago
(I had no brakes & rear ended some pickuo)
Not had any problems with chassis or axles

Hicap phill · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
not 100% what you mean by C bracket phil?
is deff towing out, i could see it immediately, but still drove fine with no wobble or jusdder at all.

There is a bracket that attaches to the front of the diff and the drag link goes through it

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Anaconda said:
You need to see the engineers report in reference to chassis damage.
If no body damage, no axle tube damage, no chassis damage then its not an expensive repair, it shouldn't be a write off. Get a 2nd quote as you are entitled to take it wherever you want.
Keep it at home if that is where it is.

engineer makes no ref to chassis on report, simply stated couldnt assess further without extra clearence from insurers and they immediately wrote off

julianf · Dec 18, 2023

Turboman said:
Can you post any pics?

The tracking and steering wheel off centre could be caused by several things, some of them as simple as a bent steering rod.

I would think it would take a ,massive impact to bend the chassis.

I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one.

If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first.

I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I think, most of the rods would cause both wheels to go out of alignment IF the steering wheel was centered.

Whilst, it seems, that, with the wheel central, only one road wheel is on the wonk. Which doesn't seem possible with steering rods? I guess it might be if multiple rods have bent to compensate, but just one going would always offset both wheels if the steering was centered, wouldn't it?

Hicap phill · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
it drove fine, but i decided best to get insurance involved as was completely none fault.. thats all sorted

Thought if it was a non fault claim the insurance should repair it?

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Hicap phill said:
There is a bracket that attaches to the front of the diff and the drag link goes through it

this was all on it and hasnt been changed so will have to check in morning

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Hicap phill said:
Thought if it was a non fault claim the insurance should repair it?

they said that without a defined issue simply changing the axle and associated parts would be over 9k so not worth it

Anaconda · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
engineer makes no ref to chassis on report, simply stated couldnt assess further without extra clearence from insurers and they immediately wrote off

Costed estimate is done before a car is written off.
The estimate is then submitted to insurance company and an engineer gets involved if needed.
Approved repairer can usually self authorise.
Repairers are known to write off a job if they don't want it.

Turboman · Dec 18, 2023

julianf said:
I bent the track rod just by hitting a curb and it sent the wheels all over the place. But it was a cheap britpart one.

If he's fitted HD stuff (depending on how HD that actually is) then I guess something else would break first.

I get mixed up with the names of the steering components but, I think, most of the rods would cause both wheels to go out of alignment IF the steering wheel was centered.

Whilst, it seems, that, with the wheel central, only one road wheel is on the wonk. Which doesn't seem possible with steering rods? I guess it might be if multiple rods have bent to compensate, but just one going would always offset both wheels if the steering was centered, wouldn't it?

The drag link between the front wheels is pretty easy to bend. I bent the one on my Ninety by driving into a concrete block at about 2 mph. The bloody thing was so low down I didn't see it over the bonnet.

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Hicap phill said:
if anything is going to bend it’s your drag link between the 2 wheels.
Did you put the c bracket on the diff to protect it?
Does this bar look straight?
Measure front of tyre from left to right
The. Rear of tyre left to right will show if towing in/out

Hicap phill · Dec 18, 2023

Now have you a photo of the bar behind?
Links the 2 wheels up
And bottom of diff

Def90man · Dec 18, 2023

The bar behind the axle is where I would be looking first

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Anaconda said:
Costed estimate is done before a car is written off.
The estimate is then submitted to insurance company and an engineer gets involved if needed.
Approved repairer can usually self authorise.
Repairers are known to write off a job if they don't want it.

thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Def90man said:
The bar behind the axle is where I would be looking first

i only have stock pics of re buid at the moment.. but this tracking bar ahs had a straight edge put against its full length all round and no sign of any bend.

Anaconda · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh

You don't have to rush to make a decision. It's your truck, you can have it repaired by whoever you want and intitled to more than one estimate.
Besides your insurance company should be instructing the other person's insurance company to pay for it. Tell them you want it repaired, it was there fault.
What is your truck valued at?

hawky666 · Dec 18, 2023

Anaconda said:
You don't have to rush to make a decision. It's your truck, you can have it repaired by whoever you want and intitled to more than one estimate.

its complicated.. and i did ok out of it.. just have to decide if worth doing and keeping on top of that with a near 6k buy back.

Def90man · Dec 18, 2023

Otherwise jack passenger wheel and give it a good shake in case the wheel bearings or swivel bearings failed.

Turboman · Dec 18, 2023

hawky666 said:
thats what i feel has happened. they were scared of it tbh

That is entirely possible. A lot of garages don't want to work on old Land Rovers now.
Much easier money in servicing, and stuff you can put an OBD reader on than crash repairs.

julianf · Dec 18, 2023

Look at it this way, (and again, I don't know the numbers)

Say you got a 10k payout and the buy back is 6k, 4k would be enough to swap the chassis again, depending on diy or paying.

But then would the car be 10k as a cat s?

If you got a 15k payout, then 4k would be enough to do the chassis again if need be, and then you have a 15k car for 10k. But then the cat s thing again.

I don't know your numbers nor market price for fancy 90s, but you do know the numbers, so can you just look at worst case and see if the sums make sense? Then, if it's not "worst case" you're doing well?

That would seem easier to work out than what's wrong with it (with any real certainty) right now?

Any ways to check wheel alignment without lazer kit??

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