Another Land Rover doors post

Flossie · Apr 1, 2018

It is a painful job to get right, I spent days maybe weeks to get mine right but mine was a 5 door on a new chassis with all new doors and tub and bulkhead off another vehicle.
I would strongly suggest your bulkhead needs pulling forward at the top. There are slotted plates and shims in this area to assist.
If you can't face starting over again try slacking off the bulkhead fixings and roof bolts and pushing the bulkhead forward at the top.
You will need a hand with someone nipping up bolts as you push and hold.
I had 4 lorry ratchet straps pulling in all sorts of directions to get it right but the truck was a shell really. That little girl doing the 'steering for daddy' is 17 yrs old now nearly.

crofter65 · Apr 3, 2018

Hi thanks for all the reply's, I have decided to adjust the bulkhead to get the door gaps right. Whats the least I need to remove or loosen to achieve this, I know the roof to screen bolts will need to be loosened, will the wings need to be taken off or loosened? what about the floor?
TIA.

Al2O3 · Apr 3, 2018

crofter65 said:
Hi thanks for all the reply's, I have decided to adjust the bulkhead to get the door gaps right. Whats the least I need to remove or loosen to achieve this, I know the roof to screen bolts will need to be loosened, will the wings need to be taken off or loosened? what about the floor?
TIA.

You didn't answer the question about the outriggers. If new ones have been welded on and they're not it the correct place, then this too will affect the geometry of the whole set up. This might explain why the bottom of the door is hitting the sill, if that's what you are describing in earlier posts?
I would think the least you will need to do it loosen the bolts along the top of the windscreen, the wing to bulkhead bolts and the bulkhead to chassis brackets. It might move then, however, if it doesn't you may well need to loosen the floor, gear box tunnel, wings to front chassis members etc. You might even need to loosen the rest of the roof bolts in order to wiggle the roof a tad to get it to line up once the bulkhead has been adjusted. We don't know how far it was taken apart for the paint job, but the bulkhead, doors, body positioning and alignment would have been better sorted before the wings went on. That's what I would have done anyway. I know it sounds like a lot of hassle, especially if you have just put all of that together, but IMHO I think it's for the best if you want it done properly.

Flossie · Apr 3, 2018

The brackets from footwell to chassis need slacking off, you may have shims between them brackets and the footwells.
Steering shaft possibly and, yes, maybe the wings, depends how much the BH needs to move really.
You could even have badly fitted outriggers, rule nowt out!
Mine was awful when I initially bolted panels on and I thought the new chassis was bent it was that bad (it wasnt) it was all to do with the bulkhead and a bit to do with the tub in the end. Many many hrs of pulling and pushing and measuring got her there in the end.

crofter65 · Apr 3, 2018

Al2O3 said:
You didn't answer the question about the outriggers. If new ones have been welded on and they're not it the correct place, then this too will affect the geometry of the whole set up. This might explain why the bottom of the door is hitting the sill, if that's what you are describing in earlier posts?
I would think the least you will need to do it loosen the bolts along the top of the windscreen, the wing to bulkhead bolts and the bulkhead to chassis brackets. It might move then, however, if it doesn't you may well need to loosen the floor, gear box tunnel, wings to front chassis members etc. You might even need to loosen the rest of the roof bolts in order to wiggle the roof a tad to get it to line up once the bulkhead has been adjusted. We don't know how far it was taken apart for the paint job, but the bulkhead, doors, body positioning and alignment would have been better sorted before the wings went on. That's what I would have done anyway. I know it sounds like a lot of hassle, especially if you have just put all of that together, but IMHO I think it's for the best if you want it done properly.

Al2O3 · Apr 3, 2018

Flossie said:
The brackets from footwell to chassis need slacking off, you may have shims between them brackets and the footwells.
Steering shaft possibly and, yes, maybe the wings, depends how much the BH needs to move really.
You could even have badly fitted outriggers, rule nowt out!
Mine was awful when I initially bolted panels on and I thought the new chassis was bent it was that bad (it wasnt) it was all to do with the bulkhead and a bit to do with the tub in the end. Many many hrs of pulling and pushing and measuring got her there in the end.

Yeah, forgot the steering column, Flossie. Good shout that. There might be other bits like the inner and outer sills

crofter65 · Apr 3, 2018

A1203 It was striped right down to only the bulkhead, the out riggers have not been replaced as it is on a Galvanised chassis make unknown, I think it may be a Richards. One of the reasons fr the rebuild was the doors didn't fit very well, the bulkhead was to close to the tub, when I put it together I measured the door gap top and bottom and added 10mm , I did fined the bracket to the chassis had run out of adjustment and had to file the holes. I am planning to go back and get the doors to fit, if not it will annoy me forevermore.

Paul D · Apr 3, 2018

Flossie said:
...... some waffle ICBA to read ....

That little girl doing the 'steering for daddy' is 17 yrs old now nearly.

Nearly 17 you say? ...

Hmmm ...

Might have to get the Bakewell Bash going this year again ... You don't live far from Derbyshire do you?

Al2O3 · Apr 3, 2018

crofter65 said:
A1203 It was striped right down to only the bulkhead, the out riggers have not been replaced as it is on a Galvanised chassis make unknown, I think it may be a Richards. One of the reasons fr the rebuild was the doors didn't fit very well, the bulkhead was to close to the tub, when I put it together I measured the door gap top and bottom and added 10mm , I did fined the bracket to the chassis had run out of adjustment and had to file the holes. I am planning to go back and get the doors to fit, if not it will annoy me forevermore.

You can tell if it's a Richard's chassis as it will have RC cut in to the end of the rear of the chassis, look inside the rear wheel arches.
When you say you added 10mm, what do you mean? Did you put 10mm worth of washers between the bulkhead bushes and the outriggers? ie in the bulkhead bolts?

Another Land Rover doors post

Flossie

Well-Known Member

crofter65

Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Flossie

Well-Known Member

crofter65

Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

crofter65

Member

Paul D

Old, nackered 'n broke, but the Landy is fine . :)

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

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