another horn problem...

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

aw68

Member
Posts
30
Location
derbyshire
Morning all!
I have done a search, but can't find anything else to help me....
I'm a bit of a pleb when it comes to electrics, but I'm learning.

I had no horn at all, so I bought a new one and fitted it. The horn definitely works and so does the earth (I jumped a cable from the battery terminal).
I have existing horn wiring so I just attached that but no horny horn...

So far - I've checked power going into fuse - good. Fuse not blown either.
Popped the end off the stalk and little brass connecters and cone look fine. If I take a live from the battery and pop it on one of the brass connecters the horn works. So I know the wiring to the horn works.

Interestingly, I also don't have fog lights, an interior light (all same fuse) and my main beams work but don't 'flash'.

Don't know what to do next?!

Cheers!
 
I have the exact same symptoms! I swapped the horn and when it still didn't worked - i gave up and moved on to a bigger job.

Interested to learn of the end cause when you get to it.

Sorry this reply offers no help - but the column switch seems like a good start.
 
Thanks James - again! I'll look into that. If I can work out how to use my multimeter to full effect. Honestly, it's like watching a gran with an iPhone.

Ben, I'll definitely keep updating. It's good to know I'm not the only one.
Never alone with a broken landy!
 
just done the one that belongs to wifeys cousin renewed the stalk , didn't work checked all wiring that didn't bloody well work either found we had a fuse box under drivers seat , blown fuse it all works now:Dwhere abouts in derbyshire are you? if you are close to us just bring it round and be glad to have a butchers , just let me know.
 
Have you tried both Fuses? there are 2 fuses, one is 100A (FL1) and the other is 20A (F3). these fuses also serve the headlamp flash supply. Both these fuses are under the drivers seat.
 
Forgot to say mine's a 1991 200 tdi.
I've honestly never noticed a fuse box under the driver's seat! Thats where I chuck all of my recovery tackle.... I'll take a look after work
 
Mine is also a 1991, with a V8. And there is also no electrics under the drivers seat as that is currently in the back garden! And all electrics seem to stop at the bulkhead, except for the rear loom which runs through the chassis.
 
Yes you are right, the diagram I was looking at is for later models. Now looking at correct diagram, there is a single feed from the battery, a thick brown wire possibly, that goes to the fuse box to feed fuses 1,2 & 13. First point to check theerfore is for voltage on the feed points of each of these fuses. Given that there are other circuits affected, interior lights, headlamp flasher, accessory socket/cigar lighter? these are fed from different fuses all supplied by that one feed which would suggest a disconnection or high resistance joint in the wiring of that main feed. Hope that helps...
 
Update - Had a fiddle yesterday.... And had a bit more of an investigate with my horn...ha

Checked power into fuse 1, multimeter said 12 volts. Thick brown wire, like Derek said.

Checked power coming out of fuse (at the back of fuse) - 12 volts also. 2 purple wires come out and go up through the dash to the steering column.

Rigged a little switch test: Made a 3 inch length of wire to go between the terminal blocks(?) of the horn output (black and purple wire) and then took a live feed from the battery straight into the stalk side of the terminal block to power the horn circuit. Pressed the stalk and hey presto! The horn sounds!

SO...somewhere between the fuse and steering column I'm losing all of the power?! But the fuse doesn't blow?! I guess I'll just bypass the 2 purple wires and make my own.

90% there now!
 
Just another thought... Are you using a digital voltmeter? I have experienced in the past that they will indicate a full 12 volts, but this is because they draw so little current. (Ohms /volt very high). In practice when a full load such as a horn is applied, any bad joint with a high resistance will not deliver enough current to operate the horn. Don't know if you have tried taking a known (good) battery feed and plugging it into the non battery side of the fuse with the fuse removed. This would prove the wiring to the steering column.
 
Well, you'll all be pleased to know I've sorted out my horn. Just replaced the 2 purple wires between fuse and indicator stalk terminal. Also now have working flashers!
An all round exciting day..

Thanks all for your help
 
Back
Top