Another EAS problem!

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marcinbrighton said:
That's what I thought. The old bags looked pretty tired, she's done 92K miles and they looked original, so I figured while changing the bags I might as well do the valve block at the same time.

After I put it back together and these problems started, I thought it might have been down to the compressor not being able to get enough air in so I put a new compressor on.

When the tank is up to pressure (which does take some time, even leaving a door open) it does move quickly, just not in any particular manner! I've soap tested the airline back to the tank and covered the tank in it too, no bubbliness that I can see.

I'm kinda hoping that when I test the air ports tomorrow they are all over the place. That at least will give a good suggestion that the driver pack may be erring.

Will let you know.....

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...
This was discussed recently - I think we settled on 7-8 minutes for a new Compressor, 10-12 minutes for a tired compressor and anything over that means the compressor is fecked....
 
Saint.V8 said:
7-8 minutes for a new Compressor, 10-12 minutes for a tired compressor and anything over that means the compressor is fecked....
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll time it after its been de-pressurised to the pressure switch turning off the compressor, with the door/tailgate open (which I'll have to do as the lines will be out of the block!) to see if it matches in with those timings - hopefully the new compressor should be good!

Plenty to try this evening :)
 
Hi Guys,
hmm i had a problem tother day where the fronts no matter what i did would not come down theyw ere locked at highest setting, indicator lights worked ok but it did nothing on the front!
anway i solved it by putting car into "Transport" mode where it dropped down all four corners and sat there, which of course exhausted everything, now we were getting somewhere!! then reset to normal mode,8 mins later she was sat straight and level, and everthing now appears to work ok, just done a 300 mile trip asnd its ok so far! may be worth a go?should add only bought it saturday and not to clued up on the system but it worked for me!!
G
 
rangerovertoy said:
Hi Guys,
hmm i had a problem tother day where the fronts no matter what i did would not come down theyw ere locked at highest setting, indicator lights worked ok but it did nothing on the front!
anway i solved it by putting car into "Transport" mode where it dropped down all four corners and sat there, which of course exhausted everything, now we were getting somewhere!! then reset to normal mode,8 mins later she was sat straight and level, and everthing now appears to work ok, just done a 300 mile trip asnd its ok so far! may be worth a go?should add only bought it saturday and not to clued up on the system but it worked for me!!
G
Click to expand...

Height sensor or driver pack problem. It WILL come back:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Would be useful to read the fault codes next time.
 
hi all

right, jack turned up and its not raining!

put her on stands, de-pressurised the system and pulled all four coloured pipes. All pipes in the correct places according to Saint's decode in #31.
Started her up and let the compressor run with the tailgate open. 6mins 44 secs to the compressor turning off, so I guess that's pretty good (something good at least - unless it means a faulty pressure switch!).

I then checked the valves opening against feeling the air coming out of the ports. So, according to the faultmate software, and closing all valves between each test:
  1. I opened first the inlet on its own. I could feel a very small amount of air coming out of two bottom ports (Blue & Black, RR & FL).
  2. Then opened inlet and FL. Air coming out of (BL) blue port (RR :()
  3. Then opened inlet and RL. Air coming out of (TL) red port (RL :))
  4. Then opened inlet and FR. Air coming out of (TR) green port (FR :))
  5. Then opened inlet and RR. Air coming out of (BR) black port (FL :()
  6. Opened inlet on its own again but no air coming from any ports.
  7. Opened exhaust on its own. no air from anywhere (including exhaust with muffler removed).
  8. Opened exhaust and inlet. Air from exhaust port.
  9. Closing all valves again, exhaust took 30 secs or so to stop air coming out.
I would think that 1 & 6 suggest I've got a couple of valves letting a bit of air past them until they're under pressure again.
Not sure if 7,8&9 are normal?
2 & 5 suggest to me driver pack not knowing which one to open, given I'm 100% sure the solenoids are in the right location.

so, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new driver pack?

Cheers

Marc
 
marcinbrighton said:
hi all

right, jack turned up and its not raining!

put her on stands, de-pressurised the system and pulled all four coloured pipes. All pipes in the correct places according to Saint's decode in #31.
Started her up and let the compressor run with the tailgate open. 6mins 44 secs to the compressor turning off, so I guess that's pretty good (something good at least - unless it means a faulty pressure switch!).

I then checked the valves opening against feeling the air coming out of the ports. So, according to the faultmate software, and closing all valves between each test:
  1. I opened first the inlet on its own. I could feel a very small amount of air coming out of two bottom ports (Blue & Black, RR & FL).
  2. Then opened inlet and FL. Air coming out of (BL) blue port (RR :()
  3. Then opened inlet and RL. Air coming out of (TL) red port (RL :))
  4. Then opened inlet and FR. Air coming out of (TR) green port (FR :))
  5. Then opened inlet and RR. Air coming out of (BR) black port (FL :()
  6. Opened inlet on its own again but no air coming from any ports.
  7. Opened exhaust on its own. no air from anywhere (including exhaust with muffler removed).
  8. Opened exhaust and inlet. Air from exhaust port.
  9. Closing all valves again, exhaust took 30 secs or so to stop air coming out.
I would think that 1 & 6 suggest I've got a couple of valves letting a bit of air past them until they're under pressure again.
Not sure if 7,8&9 are normal?
2 & 5 suggest to me driver pack not knowing which one to open, given I'm 100% sure the solenoids are in the right location.

so, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new driver pack?

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...

That will not be the driver pack, you have swapped the coils. It is not possible for the driver pack to operate the wrong valves.
 
marcinbrighton said:
hi all

right, jack turned up and its not raining!

put her on stands, de-pressurised the system and pulled all four coloured pipes. All pipes in the correct places according to Saint's decode in #31.
Started her up and let the compressor run with the tailgate open. 6mins 44 secs to the compressor turning off, so I guess that's pretty good (something good at least - unless it means a faulty pressure switch!).


I then checked the valves opening against feeling the air coming out of the ports. So, according to the faultmate software, and closing all valves between each test:
  1. I opened first the inlet on its own. I could feel a very small amount of air coming out of two bottom ports (Blue & Black, RR & FL).
  2. Then opened inlet and FL. Air coming out of (BL) blue port (RR :()
  3. Then opened inlet and RL. Air coming out of (TL) red port (RL :))
  4. Then opened inlet and FR. Air coming out of (TR) green port (FR :))
  5. Then opened inlet and RR. Air coming out of (BR) black port (FL :()
  6. Opened inlet on its own again but no air coming from any ports.
  7. Opened exhaust on its own. no air from anywhere (including exhaust with muffler removed).
  8. Opened exhaust and inlet. Air from exhaust port.
  9. Closing all valves again, exhaust took 30 secs or so to stop air coming out.
I would think that 1 & 6 suggest I've got a couple of valves letting a bit of air past them until they're under pressure again.
Not sure if 7,8&9 are normal?
2 & 5 suggest to me driver pack not knowing which one to open, given I'm 100% sure the solenoids are in the right location.

so, do I need to bite the bullet and get a new driver pack?

Cheers

Marc
Click to expand...
You got those two mixed up - take a gander at your own words...

FL open - RR opens instead
RR open - FL opens instead

I know you are 100% you got them in the right place - baut that clear test proves those two are in the wrong place...
 
Hi Datatek

Can I just check terminology - when you say 'Coils' are you refering to the outer fittings, what I'm calling 'solenoids'? if so, I'm absolutely certain they went back on in the same place. They were numbered with permanent pen before I took them off. I'm sure the cables wouldn't let them be put back on the wrong way.

That said........ I've just looked again at Saints valve block diagram again, thinking it had the multiplug layout, so I could trace cables as a final check........and.....The two valves that appear to be swapped according to the tests are the two at the bottom of the block, where there's more cable slack. I could've got them swapped, after all, 6&7 will still read as 6&7 whether the valve block is facing me or not (the top side has the diaphragm valve, so is more obvious).

I'm gonna go and check now. I honestly hope I come back with a red face and a huge apology to you datatek!!!

.........
 
marcinbrighton said:
Hi Datatek

Can I just check terminology - when you say 'Coils' are you refering to the outer fittings, what I'm calling 'solenoids'? if so, I'm absolutely certain they went back on in the same place. They were numbered with permanent pen before I took them off. I'm sure the cables wouldn't let them be put back on the wrong way.

That said........ I've just looked again at Saints valve block diagram again, thinking it had the multiplug layout, so I could trace cables as a final check........and.....The two valves that appear to be swapped according to the tests are the two at the bottom of the block, where there's more cable slack. I could've got them swapped, after all, 6&7 will still read as 6&7 whether the valve block is facing me or not (the top side has the diaphragm valve, so is more obvious).

I'm gonna go and check now. I honestly hope I come back with a red face and a huge apology to you datatek!!!

.........
Click to expand...
I do believe that is what he means...

Paul38.com has an image with the wiring let me see if I can find it....

EDIT - as attached...
 

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marcinbrighton said:
Hi Datatek

Can I just check terminology - when you say 'Coils' are you refering to the outer fittings, what I'm calling 'solenoids'? if so, I'm absolutely certain they went back on in the same place. They were numbered with permanent pen before I took them off. I'm sure the cables wouldn't let them be put back on the wrong way.

That said........ I've just looked again at Saints valve block diagram again, thinking it had the multiplug layout, so I could trace cables as a final check........and.....The two valves that appear to be swapped according to the tests are the two at the bottom of the block, where there's more cable slack. I could've got them swapped, after all, 6&7 will still read as 6&7 whether the valve block is facing me or not (the top side has the diaphragm valve, so is more obvious).

I'm gonna go and check now. I honestly hope I come back with a red face and a huge apology to you datatek!!!

.........
Click to expand...

Yes the coil is the outer fitting with the wires attached:)
 
marcinbrighton said:
Hi Datatek

Can I just check terminology - when you say 'Coils' are you refering to the outer fittings, what I'm calling 'solenoids'? if so, I'm absolutely certain they went back on in the same place. They were numbered with permanent pen before I took them off. I'm sure the cables wouldn't let them be put back on the wrong way.

That said........ I've just looked again at Saints valve block diagram again, thinking it had the multiplug layout, so I could trace cables as a final check........and.....The two valves that appear to be swapped according to the tests are the two at the bottom of the block, where there's more cable slack. I could've got them swapped, after all, 6&7 will still read as 6&7 whether the valve block is facing me or not (the top side has the diaphragm valve, so is more obvious).

I'm gonna go and check now. I honestly hope I come back with a red face and a huge apology to you datatek!!!

.........
Click to expand...

Yes the black electromagnetic coils. I can absolutely assure you the four corner coils can be put back in the wrong place, people on here have done it. Sorted one like that out not too long ago.
 
just popped back in to grab paper to note down the recheck of the air ports.......I found the same on paulsp38, and I've got a horrible, horrible feeling I'm about to look a complete t*at!!

back soon.....
 
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

So, as Wammers asked waaaaaay back in post #3, and datatek suggested waaaaaaay back in post #9......

:eek::eek::eek: I had the two bottom coils the wrong way round :eek::eek::eek:

as i said in the previous post, 6 & 7 can read from left to right whichever way the block was pointing, and apparently I had it pointing in the wrong direction when I put it back together. It was a combination of the wiring diagram and pics on paulsp38 of something as simple as looking what side the cables came out off the solenoids that made it blindingly obvious.

I am soooooo embarrassed.

I'm equally sorry for having taken up so much of your time, all of you, for something that should have been easily solved. Not the best first impression to make of myself on a forum :(

Still, I couldn't be happier that she seems to be sorted. I'm going to take her out now to make sure she drops to road height ok, and get some fuel in her!!

Thank you so much guys, really has been appreciated, and I hope I can show my face on here again!

Cheers

Marc

*now off to immediately follow Datatek's advice re the central locking remote receiver :) once bitten twice shy!
 
WooooHooooo....

:5bparty::5bparty:

Top chap....

Expect light ribbing for a while....

Pleased you stuck with it and found a resolve - far to many people deride the EAS system - once you understand it, it is pretty simple!!

Top Job from a Top Chap...!!!
 
Light ribbing ?

No, not this time.

Welcome to the wonderful world of Range Rovers and Landyzone.

Now go and thank your god for the likes of Datatek and, what was that other guy's name again?

:D:D:
 
all seems to be fine with her, all fuelled up and ready to go. feels like shes a bit higher than she was, but I'm sure I've read somewhere that the Arnott bags do feel like that, but settle after a while.

so so relieved, both at having her working, and for the reaction here - think I at least deserve a large 'I told you so' from Datatek and Wammers :D

Now just the exhaust, blend motors, srs warning light, tracking and new tyres and she'll be good as new! :)
 
marcinbrighton said:
all seems to be fine with her, all fuelled up and ready to go. feels like shes a bit higher than she was, but I'm sure I've read somewhere that the Arnott bags do feel like that, but settle after a while.

so so relieved, both at having her working, and for the reaction here - think I at least deserve a large 'I told you so' from Datatek and Wammers :D

Now just the exhaust, blend motors, srs warning light, tracking and new tyres and she'll be good as new! :)
Click to expand...

Sorted in the end, something learned. Well done. :):)
 
marcinbrighton said:
all seems to be fine with her, all fuelled up and ready to go. feels like shes a bit higher than she was, but I'm sure I've read somewhere that the Arnott bags do feel like that, but settle after a while.

so so relieved, both at having her working, and for the reaction here - think I at least deserve a large 'I told you so' from Datatek and Wammers :D

Now just the exhaust, blend motors, srs warning light, tracking and new tyres and she'll be good as new! :)
Click to expand...

Well done for fixing and admitting your error:D The Arnotts cannot affect the ride height, that is determined by the height sensors, unless of course the leaks were so bad it never got up to height. Just measure the heights to be sure:D:D
 
Datatek said:
Height sensor or driver pack problem. It WILL come back:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Would be useful to read the fault codes next time.
Click to expand...


did read the codes and none stored!! height adjuster all reading properly as well,
note apologies for thread hijack was trying to help the op!!
 
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