Another Air Ride issue.

Got to the point where I think it maybe easier to swap it all out lol

Here goes............
2005 Vogue 3.0 TD6. Set it to full height before putting on my ramp, Engine swapped out (old one had bottom end gone), Car runs sweet as a nut, Day 2, Played with air suspension and when going down, Front stayed up and rear dropped so low it can't be driven as it rips the rubber off the tyre. Air Susp light on dash. Took out compressor system in boot, changed piston ring (Shiny) and O ring, cleaned drying filters and put back in boot. Turned ignition on, reset codes and started the vehicle. Compressor fires up but nothing, no movement whatsoever. Borrowed 2 more compressors to test and same outcome. The pressure that comes out of the compressor pipe is excellent but the resevoir psi will only get to 59psi where by my understanding should be 174psi? Checked resevoir but can hear no leaks.
Current height - rears -83 Fronts -21.07 So fronts are holding air.

Ride height sensors (drop link type things) are all correct and haven't flipped.

Any recomendations on what to try next please? Desperate to get this right now.

Forgot to mention - The lights for the up down switch flash whether you flip it up or down but no movement in the vehicle.

Thanks in advance

It is quite common to need to change the piston and cylinder on the pumps and if its gone in to a hard fault that may need clearing as well.

If it goes into a hard fault, should it not drop to the bump stops? The state of the compressor won't prevent that

As it stands, rears are at their lowest, fronts are "normal" compressor goes for a few seconds then shuts off as you can hear exhaust valve opening briefly for its " SSShh" Resevoir doesn't fill. Relay and resevoir show open when compressor is going but it will not go longer than a few seconds. ends up on 100 degrees c and shuts down with overheating.

Keyzy said:

Resevoir doesn't fill.

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I'd start there - no air = no air suspension..... .....

My problem there is the unit doesn’t leak after checking it and the compressor isn’t staying on for longer than a few seconds so I’m now wondering if the drier is not doing its job properly ‍

air flows both ways through the drier, if its blocked then then air wont release. that said, the front should drop first, leaving the rear up if that were the case.
desiccant can break down and jam valves open/shut

You should do the drier. Filters get clogged and restrict air flow making it harder for the compressor to work = overheat.
Ours was going off on overheat but then would come back on after cooling and fill the tank, then everything was fine.

Does the compressor not restart once cooled?

My little experience been fine since
L322 - EAS compressor here we go. C1A20-64. | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

Do you have a code reader to pull codes?

J

Also check the valve blocks with soapy water. They do leak around the 4mm airline seals.

What diagnostic suite are you using on the suspension?
Maybe It's still logging a fault if it won't reinstate itself.

Mark Piercy said:

What diagnostic suite are you using on the suspension?
Maybe It's still logging a fault if it won't reinstate itself.

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regardless, shouldnt the front drop, if all is working

kermit_rr said:

front should drop first,

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Tis my understanding too - told it's a safety thing - so headlights don't point skyward - so .... if it isn't doing this, then something is quite out of whack......

kermit_rr said:

desiccant can break down and jam valves open/shut

Click to expand...

+1.

Disco1BFG said:

Tis my understanding too - told it's a safety thing - so headlights don't point skyward - so .... if it isn't doing this, then something is quite out of whack......



+1.

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+ another 1

I’m using snap on diagnostics (ethos).
No codes in the air suspension whatsoever - however, when you clear codes (that aren’t there) the compressor kicks back in. my compressor literally starts when you turn the keys on and goes off after around 3-5 seconds. It does not start back up again at anytime unless I hit the clear codes again but even then it doesn’t go for long.
Run live data today and something interesting popped up but I could be barking up the wrong tree. The voltage for the front sensors read 4.0 and 4.1, rear left read 0.8 and rear right read 1.3?? Possible it’s the rear height/level sensors? Lastly, took the brass release valve thing off the end of the line, ran the compressor and the air pressure is too strong for me to cover it up properly with my finger hence why I’m not assuming it’s compressor related.

I suspect you need a dedicated land rover diag to pull EAS codes, even if the snapon claims to do the job

Keyzy said:

Borrowed 2 more compressors to test and same outcome. The pressure that comes out of the compressor pipe is excellent but the resevoir psi will only get to 59psi where by my understanding should be 174psi? Checked resevoir but can hear no leaks.

Click to expand...

When you say compressor do you include the drier?

The same results would give the impression it’s further down. I.E at the valve block, tank solenoid/line blocked.

As ^^^ not sure you will get proper fault codes with what you have. Where are the pressure readings coming from.

J

Keyzy said:

I’m using snap on diagnostics (ethos).

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Doubt that will work TBH

Keyzy said:

however, when you clear codes (that aren’t there) the compressor kicks back in

Click to expand...

Which sorta points to the "Ethos" not giving you the full story...

Anyone local with nanocom ?

some have had issues with Snapon diags.

Is the front still up and the rear down as that will affect the voltages. Strange though as the voltage goes down as the front goes up. Have you been playing with height sensors and flipped the arms by 180 degrees?





Front left



Front right

I’ll check arms tomorrow, what are the rears supposed to be like? Please

Not got pic's of the rear but I'll see what I can find