Shifty1962
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For those of you like me who are to lazy to get underneath and drop the fuel tank to change or service the fuel pump - especially if you've just filled it up - I thought I'd post what I did for future reference.
After some careful measuring I cut an access hole between the rear floor plate strengthening ribs so that I could access and remove the pump from above.
I carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to give me access and then an air powered nibbler because I knew it could not damage the tank, hoses, or wiring. You could use whatever method you like to cut the floor but just be careful as the tank sits less than an inch from the underneath and is easily damaged.
I marked out the hole as follows - from the left hand side of the floor where it joins the vertical wall of the wheel well I measured in 29cm and scribed a line. Then I measured from the outer edge of the rear cross member 22cm and scribed a line square to the first one. The size of the actual hole that I cut is 23cm front to back and 21 cm wide from the first line marked. On my floor I had to cut through one of the alumnium front to back strenthening ribs as it runs right over the top of the pump. This is not a big deal as most of the weight bearing is carried in the side to side ribs of the floor which you do not need to cut. You can see the cut section of the rib that had to come out in the attached piccie.
The position and dimensions of your hole should be similar but all Landys differ so I'd recommend the old adage - measure twice cut once.
On my floor the left most front to back rib is tight against the line I cut and the two side to side ribs are also tight against the top and bottom cuts. The far right cut was made along the outside edge of the front to back rib as it gave a good guide for the nibbler and the rib had to come out anyhow.
After a good clean around the top of the pump its easy to disconnect the hoses (make note of the colours and where they go) and the wiring harness. The locking ring can be rotated and the pump lifts out complete with the fuel gauge float etc.
In my opinion this is much easier than fighting rusted bolts and filler hose clips and trying to drop the tank out. I will cut a piece of ali to size and pop rivet it back over the hole when I'm done. In future I'll only have to drill the rivets to gain access.
Hope this helps anyone considering doing it this way.
After some careful measuring I cut an access hole between the rear floor plate strengthening ribs so that I could access and remove the pump from above.
I carefully used a 1/2" drill bit to give me access and then an air powered nibbler because I knew it could not damage the tank, hoses, or wiring. You could use whatever method you like to cut the floor but just be careful as the tank sits less than an inch from the underneath and is easily damaged.
I marked out the hole as follows - from the left hand side of the floor where it joins the vertical wall of the wheel well I measured in 29cm and scribed a line. Then I measured from the outer edge of the rear cross member 22cm and scribed a line square to the first one. The size of the actual hole that I cut is 23cm front to back and 21 cm wide from the first line marked. On my floor I had to cut through one of the alumnium front to back strenthening ribs as it runs right over the top of the pump. This is not a big deal as most of the weight bearing is carried in the side to side ribs of the floor which you do not need to cut. You can see the cut section of the rib that had to come out in the attached piccie.
The position and dimensions of your hole should be similar but all Landys differ so I'd recommend the old adage - measure twice cut once.
On my floor the left most front to back rib is tight against the line I cut and the two side to side ribs are also tight against the top and bottom cuts. The far right cut was made along the outside edge of the front to back rib as it gave a good guide for the nibbler and the rib had to come out anyhow.
After a good clean around the top of the pump its easy to disconnect the hoses (make note of the colours and where they go) and the wiring harness. The locking ring can be rotated and the pump lifts out complete with the fuel gauge float etc.
In my opinion this is much easier than fighting rusted bolts and filler hose clips and trying to drop the tank out. I will cut a piece of ali to size and pop rivet it back over the hole when I'm done. In future I'll only have to drill the rivets to gain access.
Hope this helps anyone considering doing it this way.
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