Freelander 1 Alloy coolant bottle?

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Nodge68 said:
Most modern cars run a coolant pressures between 110Kpa and 135Kpa. They don't suffer hoses blowing off, but have a good safety margin where boiling is a consideration.

Besides the OP was asking about a different tank. The FL offering is particularly poor and cracks readily. No pressure cap is going to work if the tank can't hold it. So yes a better alloy tank will solve a problem, even if the factory 16 Psi is used.
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Yes true, for emission reduction purposes many, in particular petrol engines, run normally at or just above the boiling point of plain water. Correct proportion of coolant increases the boiling point on it's own, the cap increases it even further. If the tanks are suspect then by all means fit a different one, but as you say a cap above standard should not be needed. You only need someone with not much nous to read that a 20 Psi cap cures all, then fits one to his tired system to have a big problem waiting to happen. ;)
 
Just been out and checked, no coolant loss and it's been about 200 miles since I last checked

I'm converting to LPG next year (can we save the arguments about that for the actual thread when I start?) and I wanted to make sure the cooling isn't going to be an issue, it's a 2002 car and has the later remote stat etc and had a new pump when I did the HG

I'm currently collecting bits to add water and oil temp gauges before I do any other mods, so I can log baseline std temps
 
htr said:
Thought about that waterless coolant? Runs at a low pressure. Cost of tank ... Might be close to that coolant!
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I have a mate here who is running that waterless coolant in a Disco 300Tdi, I think the boiling point is around 180 degrees C, (not absolutely sure of that figure), but when his engine is at operating temperature after a hard run on the highway with air con on you can still squeeze the radiator hoses in, there is no to very little pressure in the system.
He put that coolant in with a brand new factory engine and new Allisport radiator, with all new hoses.
Using it to refill a system that is not new you need to remove all the old coolant and have the system as dry as possible, any residual ordinary coolant will flash off to steam if mixed into the waterless stuff.
It is expensive but it certainly overcomes the overheating and over pressurising of the cooling system, which TBH, I would have thought should not be a problem in your part of the world if all is as it should be with the vehicles cooling system.
 
Gazbo said:
I have a mate here who is running that waterless coolant in a Disco 300Tdi, I think the boiling point is around 180 degrees C, (not absolutely sure of that figure), but when his engine is at operating temperature after a hard run on the highway with air con on you can still squeeze the radiator hoses in, there is no to very little pressure in the system.
He put that coolant in with a brand new factory engine and new Allisport radiator, with all new hoses.
Using it to refill a system that is not new you need to remove all the old coolant and have the system as dry as possible, any residual ordinary coolant will flash off to steam if mixed into the waterless stuff.
It is expensive but it certainly overcomes the overheating and over pressurising of the cooling system, which TBH, I would have thought should not be a problem in your part of the world if all is as it should be with the vehicles cooling system.
Click to expand...

Just now it's a vehicle warming system that is most important. :D:D
 
Looking at the coolant bottle, I am struck by its similarity to the one fitted to VW Polos etc. Plus the VW tank has a coolant level sensor...
 
Just bought one too, if it can be made to fit without massive hassle I will use it, sensor is good too
 
Dimensionally pretty close, but not sure if I get the cigar or not yet, as the VW part is about 10% taller and thus may foul the bonnet close...

It'll need a bracket making and an extension or two of pipe work, but nothing too drastic IMO.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 
rob_bell said:
Dimensionally pretty close, but not sure if I get the cigar or not yet, as the VW part is about 10% taller and thus may foul the bonnet close...

It'll need a bracket making and an extension or two of pipe work, but nothing too drastic IMO. View attachment 113170View attachment 113171
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Hight wise, I think it'll fit. The bonnet is quite a but higher then the top of the factory tank. The VW pipework is in the wrong place. But it's easy to get round that one. The bottom pipe should mount in the standard position. The top pipe will need extending along the inner wing, looping round the back of the tank to the new top position. ;)
So the just leaves a bracket needed to mount it.
Looking forward to seeing the final install;)
 
Yes, that's how I envisioned it Nodge. Just the available height under the bonnet that concerns me: will put so plasticine or similar on top of the standard tank cap and see how much clearance there is :)
 
rob_bell said:
Yes, that's how I envisioned it Nodge. Just the available height under the bonnet that concerns me: will put so plasticine or similar on top of the standard tank cap and see how much clearance there is :)
Click to expand...

If you run a straight edge from the PS reservoir over the coolant tank, to the bulkhead seal behind the coolant tank, you'll see there is a good deal of room. The bonnet sits a good 1/2" above the seal. I think you'll find there's room to spare;)
 
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