P38A Air, wheres it going??

If you can bring it over to Langley next weekend, I will take a look. Doesn't take long to remove the valve block & bench test. Also being able to invert the block makes it easier to check for leaks on bottom valves !! I also have adapter to fill the tank from workshop compressor.

If you keep getting strange behaviour, it's worth checking the driver pack to solenoid connector for intermittent pins.

Pete

Pwood, can you pm me your addy plz and thanks for the help

I just wrote to the guy I got my compressor from and he is sending me a new one in the post today ( eBays not all bad) so now im going to have 3 knocking around!! 2 are definitely going to be new and 100% and the other one for parts...

Progress, the pump on the car is fubar, all I get from it is a click, my new spare is tested working, but I don't know how much air its moving, its new so it should be moving quite a lot of air, and I have the new pump coming via UPS

Dopey said:

Progress, the pump on the car is fubar, all I get from it is a click, my new spare is tested working, but I don't know how much air its moving, its new so it should be moving quite a lot of air, and I have the new pump coming via UPS

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I'd refurb the old pump and use that for testing there are no leaks before risking the new one on it.

Once up to max height pull the delay timer and see how long she takes to go down.

The old one once fixed should have a lot of life left in it, its only about 18 months old

I always refurb them myself. Thermo cutout & reed valves can be fiddly but the piston seal & barrel are easy.

A battery, a length or airline & pressure gauge is good for basic test, but it needs to pump into a tank for a real test. Time taken from tank empty to full is the best guide for pump capability.

I have just found a guy who sells Thermo cutouts for a few $ going to get 5