air flow meter

if my afm maf etc had packed up would it stop a p38 from firing completely on one bank ?

No 100% not. What year is it. Is it Gems or Motronic

its a 1994 reg pre launch registered , on gems , has to be crank sensor then

Just to try and narrow down the fault are all the plugs on one bank definitely not getting any ignition. If you haven’t checked the ignition it could just as easily be the Injectors on one bank because of a failed live.

More likely a failed feed to one bank,if it was crank sensor its unlikely it would run at all,but you should check its not loose or its mounting plate has not broken free from the block.Unlikely to be sparks as the coils feed cyls on both banks.If the crank sensor is loose or you still suspect its at fault,remove the 1/2 moon plate in front of the flywheel and inspect the u shaped tangs the sensor reads.

ive checked the crank sensor fixings all sound new yesterday so was maf , ive checked i got power going to the coil packs its the old style one (4 packs with 2 leads out of each) it is sparking BUT looking at it the spark , dont look that strong some are orangey colour others are bright blue/white so i think my next move is a new coilpack:Cry::Cry: by christ this thing loves money and not just in the tank either , hate spending coin just to eliminate a problem if its broken fine must have it .if that aint the problem then im dun dont know where else to go :confused2::5bwilly_nilly:

Are the plug leads up to it ? Check their resistance,it will vary from about 6k ohms for a short one up to probably 12-14k ohms for a long one.25 thou gap on a standard plug should give a good spark.

i hope there up to it ,,they were new and the plugs , a couple of weeks ago, i got them from a 4x4 supplier, who checked they were compatable for the car honestly dont know HOW to check resistance i can do feed (live and earth) and continuety thats it

I have condemned brand new leads before,more than once - some of the cheap ones just dont work.Switch your multimeter to Ohms and connect the test lead to each end of the plug lead - simple as that.Genuine leads are the way to go.

im getting readings of between 7 & 10 on the short and between 15 & 19 on the long any use good or bad ?

19k is a bit high,try wiggling the lead around when connected to the meter,if they go open line or open circuit they are no good.The lower readings are good,but again try the wiggle test.

i'll do as told cheers

dun it only 1 still high so do you think its gonna be a new coilpack or am i jumping the gun ?

If only one has high resistance this is not causing a whole bank to missfire,I think the best thing to do would be to get a decent local indy to run some checks on it - do you have any local that you trust ?

Best get a proper diagnostic done. If you keep putting new bits on you MIGHT get lucky but it could be expensive!

had a fella come round thur night he checked it with auto logic system told me about maf and crank sensor .. (had similar problem before bugger wouldn't start unless you pulled fuel relay out but had good spark then ) the plugs are soaking i know they would be as its not burning off but could it be a problem with something like the fuel pressure switch or the injectors staying live and over fueling the pots that much it drowns the spark

When the Auto logic was connected did he have a look at the serial data ie Fuel trim per bank, Coolant temp sensor, injection duration, ect.
I think a lot of people grab themselves a bit of diagnostic kit, plug it in and expect to get the magic answer in the way of a fault code. The data will paint a very accurate picture of the way the engine is running.

It could be a coolant temp sensor that is reading a very low temp and is causing an over fuel situation,
a lazy lambda on one bank,
a failing coil that again is causing over fuel
a TPS that is showing part throttle reading on idle,
a partially blocked cat that is choking the engine on one bank.

With all the plugs out of the engine, keep them in the original order. What state are they in.
The ones from the bank you suspect as failed, are they black and ones from the good bank, brown.The end of a spark plug will tell you a lot about how the cylinder is running.
If a lambda sensor has gone down, the corresponding bank will over fuel. Once all the plugs are fouled on that bank you had it.
Let me know what state they are in. There is a simple way to test the lambda sensor with a voltmeter and you can see how that bank is fueling.

i thing i can safely say both lambda sensors are dead by what you've just said . but do the come in on the starting process or when its running, which it wont even do .

That’s the wrong way to go about it and it’s the fastest way to empty your wallet. You can’t safely say that until they have been tested.
What colour are the plugs on the suspected failed bank.

my wallet is empty im into her purse now ! okay the plugs are black and wet on the even bank and i mean black & wet not sooted up tho , on the odd bank i had all black and no 7 was starting to get sooty , this was the last time i got it to fire , since then i was told about the maf & ckp , when i bought the car i knew the gbox was dead . started it now and again to keep all free , changed box over christmas . started and drove it home went to start it 2/3 weeks ago after changing battery and it started to play up checked spark etc had fuel etc struggled to start but it did . next time i tried it would only fire on 3 plugs on the odd bank (1 3 7) other 5 pots were getting spark and fuel but wouldn't fire , didnt have time to do it then so i left it went back to it this week and had it checked etc it has seemed to get progressively worse this is why im thinking coilpac now