Advice on replacing both rear toe spindle links on Disco 4

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mantrid

Active Member
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Hi guys,

Well I took my car in for an MOT, the guys there failed it on what they wrote was rear track control arms, they told me it would be about £150 per arm and they charged £90 labour per hour, then quoted me circa £800 for the repair. I then said I couldn't afford that and would have to cancel the work and do the work myself or look elsewhere and the guy then told me all the car needed was a pair of rear toe link spindle rods which can be had for £50 for the pair on john craddock!

I didn't give him any grief, I was just happy it wasn't going to be the upper/lower suspension arms which they first implied it was!

So my question is, could I do it myself and if so which tools would help, I got trolley jacks, a dewalt DCF9000 impact wrench, usual tools, or if it's an absolute bitch, how hard is the work for a mechanic to do, how many hours labour would you guys say it would be?

Just trying to figure out the best path here, thanks in advance heroes, and all the best, Mantrid 👍
 
Last edited:
mantrid said:
Hi guys,

Well I took my car in for an MOT, the guys there failed it on what they wrote was rear track control arms, they told me it would be about £150 per arm and they charged £90 labour per hour, then quoted me circa £800 for the repair. I then said I couldn't afford that and would have to cancel the work and do the work myself or look elsewhere and the guy then told me all the car needed was a pair of rear toe link spindle rods which can be had for £50 for the pair on john craddock!

I didn't give him any grief, I was just happy it wasn't going to be the upper/lower suspension arms which they first implied it was!

So my question is, could I do it myself and if so which tools would help, I got trolley jacks, a dewalt DCF9000 impact wrench, usual tools, or if it's an absolute bitch, how hard is the work for a mechanic to do, how many hours labour would you guys say it would be?

Just trying to figure out the best path here, thanks in advance heroes, and all the best, Mantrid 👍
Click to expand...
@gstuart is your man here, now he should come on as soon as he sees he's been "pinged".
Wonder what the garage would charge just to do the toe link spindle rods? !;);)🤣
 
mantrid said:
Hi guys,

Well I took my car in for an MOT, the guys there failed it on what they wrote was rear track control arms, they told me it would be about £150 per arm and they charged £90 labour per hour, then quoted me circa £800 for the repair. I then said I couldn't afford that and would have to cancel the work and do the work myself or look elsewhere and the guy then told me all the car needed was a pair of rear toe link spindle rods which can be had for £50 for the pair on john craddock!

I didn't give him any grief, I was just happy it wasn't going to be the upper/lower suspension arms which they first implied it was!

So my question is, could I do it myself and if so which tools would help, I got trolley jacks, a dewalt DCF9000 impact wrench, usual tools, or if it's an absolute bitch, how hard is the work for a mechanic to do, how many hours labour would you guys say it would be?

Just trying to figure out the best path here, thanks in advance heroes, and all the best, Mantrid 👍
Click to expand...

Hi

Funny enough I’ve got to do my tie link / also known as panhard rods and rear lower wishbones ,

Rear Anti Roll Bar, Mountings & Link Rods

Land Rover Discovery 4 LR4 Rear Anti Roll Bar Stabiliser Drop Links Roll Bar Bushes
www.advancedfactors.co.uk www.advancedfactors.co.uk

Would Think around 2 x hours each , u may have to cut the nuts off as they can rust solid , so best to order new nuts and bolts , once there off measure them in comparison to the old ones to get them fairly near and get 4 x wheel alignment done after

There’s a certain measurement that they have to be set, will find it for u

Wow, £800 , saying that I was quoted £1600 to replace my panhard rods and rear lower wishbones , that wasn’t even dealer prices

Please also check ur drop links as there not very expensive

Hope that helps and will find some more info for u
 
The inner rear is slotted. It has to be 10mm between the lower part of the inner boot and the metal of the chassis directly below it.

Hope this helps

IMG_2193.png
IMG_2192.jpeg
 
Stanleysteamer said:
@gstuart is your man here, now he should come on as soon as he sees he's been "pinged".
Wonder what the garage would charge just to do the toe link spindle rods? !;);)🤣
Click to expand...

Bless u as that’s very kind of u to say 👍

As a side note to replace both my panhard rods and rear lower wishbones been quoted around £1600 , the parts are around £500 and some garages really know how to charge

Alas think many simply don’t want to work on older land rovers , my D3 will be 20 x years old next year

Of course will be finding alternatives as refuse to pay that kind of cost

Thks again mate
 
gstuart said:
Hi

Funny enough I’ve got to do my tie link / also known as panhard rods and rear lower wishbones ,

Rear Anti Roll Bar, Mountings & Link Rods

Land Rover Discovery 4 LR4 Rear Anti Roll Bar Stabiliser Drop Links Roll Bar Bushes
www.advancedfactors.co.uk www.advancedfactors.co.uk

Would Think around 2 x hours each , u may have to cut the nuts off as they can rust solid , so best to order new nuts and bolts , once there off measure them in comparison to the old ones to get them fairly near and get 4 x wheel alignment done after

There’s a certain measurement that they have to be set, will find it for u

Wow, £800 , saying that I was quoted £1600 to replace my panhard rods and rear lower wishbones , that wasn’t even dealer prices

Please also check ur drop links as there not very expensive

Hope that helps and will find some more info for u
Click to expand...

Thanks for this @gstuart, really helpful, a bit out of my league but I found a relatively near garage in evesham that charges a reasonable £50 per hour labour rate and I've booked the car in to do the work, as for the parts could you kindly check the link below for me and tell me this is the right bit of kit I need and also if I should go for the aftermarket or OEM parts option?

I am assuming you said to do the drop links because while doing the other work its a simple/quick fix that might as well be done also which is why I thought this kit in the link was the way to go?

LRC10086 - Rear Trailing Arm, Drop Link and Bush Kit - Range Rover Sport, Discovery 3 and Discovery 4 - Aftermarket and OEM options available.

LRC10086 - Rear Trailing Arm, Drop Link and Bush Kit - Range Rover Sport, Discovery 3 and Discovery 4 - Aftermarket and OEM options available. Kit includes: 2x LR019117 Rear Axle Trailing Arms 2x LR015336 Anti-roll Bar Bushes 2x RGD000312 Anti-Roll Bar
www.lrparts.net www.lrparts.net
 
Ur so welcome , would go for oem parts

Plse don’t forget the nuts and bolts plus 4 x wheel alignment

As it doesn’t mention a name would be tempted to get them from advanced using delphi links and meyle drop links , good company to deal with

Unless of course the garage will get the bits , best to get decent parts or u could be back again after a year

Hope that helps and all goes well
 
Lemforder parts are good, Meyle parts are good.
Delphi parts are average.
This is a generalisation and only my opinion.
If you intend on keeping it for a fair amount of years I would be fitting Lemforder.
 
gstuart said:
Ur so welcome , would go for oem parts

Plse don’t forget the nuts and bolts plus 4 x wheel alignment

As it doesn’t mention a name would be tempted to get them from advanced using delphi links and meyle drop links , good company to deal with

Unless of course the garage will get the bits , best to get decent parts or u could be back again after a year

Hope that helps and all goes well
Click to expand...

Okay, thanks hero, is this the place you mean and is this the complete part list all I need?

There are some red bushes there too, so I chose the more expensive ones, I assumed both are the same thing?

Rear Anti Roll Bar, Mountings & Link Rods

Land Rover Discovery 4 LR4 Rear Anti Roll Bar Stabiliser Drop Links Roll Bar Bushes
www.advancedfactors.co.uk www.advancedfactors.co.uk

1724170731069.png
 
mantrid said:
Seems some folks think that Delphi are pretty good bro, am I missing something?

Click to expand...
I have used Lemforder parts for things I don't want to have to change again. Delphi, I use for parts I don't mind changing again myself.
Meyle drop links are twice the unit of Delphi.
If its not a long term keeper then Delphi shouldn't be a problem. Labour costs of fitting again needs to be considered when paying to fit parts.
 
mantrid said:
Okay, thanks hero, is this the place you mean and is this the complete part list all I need?

There are some red bushes there too, so I chose the more expensive ones, I assumed both are the same thing?

Rear Anti Roll Bar, Mountings & Link Rods

Land Rover Discovery 4 LR4 Rear Anti Roll Bar Stabiliser Drop Links Roll Bar Bushes
www.advancedfactors.co.uk www.advancedfactors.co.uk

View attachment 324226
Click to expand...

No probs, yes that’s all the parts ur need , looks like u have the anti roll bar bushes added , didnt know if the garage is also going to do them at the same time

Ref parts , Lemforder are better than Delphi but personally not had issues with Delphi myself, think BWI purchased Delphi

Meyle drop links , have them on each corner on my d3 , no probs with them after 4 x years

Hope that helps
 
Anaconda said:
I have used Lemforder parts for things I don't want to have to change again. Delphi, I use for parts I don't mind changing again myself.
Meyle drop links are twice the unit of Delphi.
If its not a long term keeper then Delphi shouldn't be a problem. Labour costs of fitting again needs to be considered when paying to fit parts.
Click to expand...
Thanks for you input buddy, when you say unit, you mean weight right?

And do you know how often these things needs to be changed, if I go for the Lemforder's vs the Delphi's what are your thoughts on the lifespan difference between the two? (that's probably a really hard question to answer, so sorry in advance if it is and/or it's a stupid question) 👍

Cheers.
 
gstuart said:
No probs, yes that’s all the parts ur need , looks like u have the anti roll bar bushes added , didnt know if the garage is also going to do them at the same time

Ref parts , Lemforder are better than Delphi but personally not had issues with Delphi myself, think BWI purchased Delphi

Meyle drop links , have them on each corner on my d3 , no probs with them after 4 x years

Hope that helps
Click to expand...

I would have thought it wouldn't add much to the labour cost so might as well do it?

Are these both the same thing?

1724174644382.png
 
mantrid said:
Thanks for you input buddy, when you say unit, you mean weight right?

And do you know how often these things needs to be changed, if I go for the Lemforder's vs the Delphi's what are your thoughts on the lifespan difference between the two? (that's probably a really hard question to answer, so sorry in advance if it is and/or it's a stupid question) 👍

Cheers.
Click to expand...
We fitted Meyle and Delphi drop links on the D2. The Meyle ones are a thicker rod and slightly bigger ball on the joint and just give the impression of better quality.
Had Lemforder upper and lower ball joints fitted to the D2. Lemforder A-frame ball joint on the Defender all very good quality, both things I don't want doing again.
Delphi ball joints on the Defender which of course fit and to be fair a couple thousand miles later still work.
Delphi drop link on the Focus failed after two days.
I class Delphi as a better cheap brand but Lemforder as a good substitute for genuine Land Rover.
It's what your budget and future use of the vehicle dictates. If you intend selling in a couple of years then Delphi should be fine. I imagine more often than not that part gets changed because it rusts solid on the adjustable part, plenty of grease on the threads will help this issue in the future.
 
Well god damn boys, so I took the car into Halfords this morning to put 4 duratec's on it and I asked the guy who fitted the tyres was there any play in the rear wheels and he said there was none at all (I know it's Halfords but they did a good discount on the duractecs), so now I am thinking the guy at the first place I took it into was taking the **** even more so.

So I am going to put a trolley jack under the rear and then push the wheels side to side, top to bottom while looking for play, then do the same with the front?

Is this the best way to check for these kinds of issues?

I booked in another MOT and wheel tracking next week with a different garage also!

Thanks guys for the advice so far!
 
mantrid said:
Well god damn boys, so I took the car into Halfords this morning to put 4 duratec's on it and I asked the guy who fitted the tyres was there any play in the rear wheels and he said there was none at all (I know it's Halfords but they did a good discount on the duractecs), so now I am thinking the guy at the first place I took it into was taking the **** even more so.

So I am going to put a trolley jack under the rear and then push the wheels side to side, top to bottom while looking for play, then do the same with the front?

Is this the best way to check for these kinds of issues?

I booked in another MOT and wheel tracking next week with a different garage also!

Thanks guys for the advice so far!
Click to expand...
MOT first obviously, if it fails on the same thing it's pointless doing the wheel alignment
 
Anaconda said:
MOT first obviously, if it fails on the same thing it's pointless doing the wheel alignment
Click to expand...

Yep, thank you mate, will update once I've given them all a good shake with the wheels raised as well.

Appreciate all the help guys, you all rock! 😎
 
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