Advice needed please

guineafowl21 · Mar 21, 2015

GrumpyGel said:
That's the thing, I don't think you can, aren't hydraulic tappets 'self adjusting'.

Yes. The sound seems to be 'outside' the engine, like something run by the accessory belt. Have a look in daylight with the covers off.

You could even remove the accessory belt and see if the noise disappears.

griff2 · Mar 22, 2015

ive been more drawn right now to the vis in the inlet manifold,im told its quite a common thing on these inlet manifolds but i will be able to tell more on my next day off (friday

first one off in 19days)

if it turns out to be that im going to TRY and repair it like they do on the mg forum ,but time will tell lol ,if i can fix it i WILL i hate having to buy new parts when they are fixable lol ,im just tight

griff2 · Mar 22, 2015

been having a good look around the car tonight before it got dark (about ten mins :-( )

any way any ideas what this is in the boot hole thing where you store the wheel brace ,its like a tube screwed up on the door with wires coming out it

you can see it in the above pic

terr · Mar 22, 2015

i know at one time land rover mounted amps in there so you can have a loud stereo.

Nodge68 · Mar 22, 2015

griff2 said:
been having a good look around the car tonight before it got dark (about ten mins :-( )

any way any ideas what this is in the boot hole thing where you store the wheel brace ,its like a tube screwed up on the door with wires coming out it

you can see it in the above pic

It's the subwoofer

the amp for it is underneath the passenger seat. Often the sub driver is knackered though. If it works, you did good.

griff2 · Mar 22, 2015

yay in that case i better try the radio lol ,it also has a cd multi changer in the boot ,this car just keeps giving lol

griff2 · Mar 23, 2015

well had a hr today so started to whip the inlet off

wow theres alot of pipes and clips on it lol, but what is this ??? the blue cap thing for ?

well now for the fun bit ,trying to split it

Nodge68 · Mar 24, 2015

The blue cap covers the fuel pressure test port. Before trying to split the plenum chamber. Use a length of stiff garden wire as a probe to test the flap valves. You can pass the wire into each of the 6 ports in turn while moving the control rod where the motor mounts. You should feel the valve touch the wire probe. This will tell you which valve, if any is loose.

Here's a detailed How to about this subject. Hopefully Sheddist won't mind me linking it here.

http://forums.xpowerforums.com/showthread.php?t=34554

griff2 · Mar 24, 2015

got no wirer / coat hanger right now ,so i thought i would go to next stage first lol

took apart the vis thing to ensure no solder blown and to clean out oil and ****

griff2 · Mar 25, 2015

another question lol ,to get in the mainfold ,ive read alot of the threads ref parting it and they say heat up and part with a blade/palat knife ,then sand join down later to get flat to reseal it

can i not just dremel it with a thin disk????????

Nodge68 · Mar 25, 2015

griff2 said:
another question lol ,to get in the mainfold ,ive read alot of the threads ref parting it and they say heat up and part with a blade/palat knife ,then sand join down later to get flat to reseal it

can i not just dremel it with a thin disk????????

If you are going to split the plenum, undo all the Torx screws first. Then you need to break the bond on the joint. It's not easy, with an element of risk to the plenum and injuries to yourself. I'd be checking the flap valves before ripping the unit apart

griff2 · Mar 26, 2015

ive also seen on a few rover forums that once they get into the manifold,if its totaly f....ed inside they have just cut the butterfly throatals out ,reselled and had no running problems without them

does this soon bull****? what will happen if no vis etc ?

griff2 · Mar 26, 2015

yep the butterflie bar thing id f..ked :0(

the ball joint cup on 3 out of the 6 are all missing chunks out of them and the valve flaps them selves are loose and slopping around in there mountings :-( (does no where sell replacement ball joint bar things????)

pics to follow ,so can i chop them out? what will the effect be on the car?

griff2 · Mar 26, 2015

as you can see the ball joints are gone

and after making the vid ive noticed the valve on 2 of them totaly spin so there def f..ked

griff2 · Mar 26, 2015

anyone ?

griff2 · Mar 27, 2015

?????????????

The Mad Hat Man · Mar 27, 2015

Get a rover75 fanny-mould. They are cheaper and easier to get

Longbolt · Mar 27, 2015

Have a look at this Griff.

Bit drastic, but worth a look. Loads of info on the MG forums.

How to mod a KV6 Inlet Manifold - MG-Rover.org Forums

griff2 · Mar 27, 2015

yay funny you should say that lol thats the thread i had read ,thats why i was asking if i did that would i loose lots of power and what would the long term effect be on the engine if i did it

Nodge68 · Mar 28, 2015

griff2 said:
yep the butterflie bar thing id f..ked :0(

the ball joint cup on 3 out of the 6 are all missing chunks out of them and the valve flaps them selves are loose and slopping around in there mountings :-( (does no where sell replacement ball joint bar things????)

pics to follow ,so can i chop them out? what will the effect be on the car?

No you can't get the control rod. Some folks have simply removed the flap valves altogether. You will loose 10 Ftlb of torque but the noise will be gone.

There was one guy (Sheddist) who made a metal control rod, with the intention of selling them. I don't think he ever go past making the prototype.

Advice needed please

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