Ace Removal

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AdamW

New Member
Posts
7
Had loads of problems with a leak from the ACE block. Fitted new pipes and new seals and the bloody thing is still leaking. Has anyone ever removed the ACE system from their discos? The stealers are quoting up to £1000 to remove it. Any help would be very much appreciated.:eek:
 
Had loads of problems with a leak from the ACE block. Fitted new pipes and new seals and the bloody thing is still leaking. Has anyone ever removed the ACE system from their discos? The stealers are quoting up to £1000 to remove it. Any help would be very much appreciated.:eek:

My previous TD5 had ACE problems, so I went looking for solutions.

Having looked carefully underneath the vehicle, the hydraulic rams are only on one side, drivers side on mine.

They operate by assisting the existing anti-rollbars, rather than replacing them. So when I dissactivated my ACE sytem I still had the std arb's in place, which is what you would have if you had a non-ACE car.

I can't understand on what basis a garage would say and be able to justify any expensive for doing this work. As I understand it, with a suitable terminal, you connect to the BCU and tell it that the car does not have ACE and that should be enough from an electronic viewpoint.

I am at a loss to see why you would need to remove any physical items from the vehicle, unless something seizes up (the pump on my car apparently seized with the previous owner, so it was removed and an idler pulley was put in it's place).

I was not bonded to my previous TD5 so all I did was to remove relay 15 from the engine bay relay box. This stopped the red dashboard light coming on and the bongs.
 
I
I was not bonded to my previous TD5 so all I did was to remove relay 15 from the engine bay relay box. This stopped the red dashboard light coming on and the bongs.
Does disabling the ACE stop it from seizing up and killing the car? Mine was driven after the red light and bongs came on - result the steering seized up (why?) and car eventually refused to start. Just getting rid of the warnings wouldn't have stopped this happening. Recovered to a Landrover dealer who charged a fortune to repair it AND cocked the job up so badly the drive pully fell off next time I drove it... :mad:
 
Does disabling the ACE stop it from seizing up and killing the car? Mine was driven after the red light and bongs came on - result the steering seized up (why?) and car eventually refused to start. Just getting rid of the warnings wouldn't have stopped this happening. Recovered to a Landrover dealer who charged a fortune to repair it AND cocked the job up so badly the drive pully fell off next time I drove it... :mad:


I think there must be more to this than meets the eye. If the ACE pump seized up it would shred the drive belt and that would stop the other ancilliaries working, inc the pas pump, but other than that I can't see why the ACE not working would "kill" the car.

As I said, on my previous TD5, the previous owner had a problem with the pump so had it taken off and replaced with an idler, job done.

The ACE is SUPPLEMENTARY to the existing arb's, so the fact that the ACE is not working should not imo harm the car at all.

It sounds to me like you might have been fed a load of poney, by the garage.
 
I think there must be more to this than meets the eye. If the ACE pump seized up it would shred the drive belt and that would stop the other ancilliaries working, inc the pas pump, but other than that I can't see why the ACE not working would "kill" the car.

As I said, on my previous TD5, the previous owner had a problem with the pump so had it taken off and replaced with an idler, job done.

The ACE is SUPPLEMENTARY to the existing arb's, so the fact that the ACE is not working should not imo harm the car at all.

It sounds to me like you might have been fed a load of poney, by the garage.
No - it really died completely. Had to be relayed back from Cambridge. I think it somehow managed to seize the steering pump too - I don't know how. I missed the bit about replacing the pump with an idler - that would indeed solve the problem, although it might be difficult to do if the system fails in the middle of a long journey. The answer might be to get it relayed to someone who is NOT a main dealer and get them to do the job!
 
had mine removed with no noteable difference in ride they left the pump in place with a loop fitted to keep the pump lubed but i have since been told that an idle pulley could of been fitted and a smaller belt fitted bypassing the pump altogether still cost £400 though was a lot cheaper than repairing the bloody thing
 
had mine removed with no noteable difference in ride they left the pump in place with a loop fitted to keep the pump lubed but i have since been told that an idle pulley could of been fitted and a smaller belt fitted bypassing the pump altogether still cost £400 though was a lot cheaper than repairing the bloody thing
Sounds like the best solution!:)
 
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