Ace ecu

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sparky steve

sparky steve

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chester
I have searched for this but does anyone know:-

my ace ecu is coming up with corupt data fault code which just wont clear with my Hawkeye.
so ecu must be faulty

so the question is my ecu pt no is RQT100022
on a l/rover parts supplier site said it has been updated and is now RQT100024

so should i get RQT100022 or RQT100024

oh my disco is a 1999 td5 gs.

thanks :D
 
Actually there are 3 types of ACE ECU's: RQT100022/'23/'24, AFAIK the ACE wasnt modifyed like the ABS was where the new kind of ECU has some internal mod's, but the ACE is connected to the SLABS ECU so it's possible that the new kind of ACE ECU is also addapted for the upgraded SLABS ECU... i didnt do it myself but IMO the safest thing is to put the original type of ECU.

by the way what's the problem? do you have a warning on dash and the only fault code shown is corrupt data? ... check for water ingress at the ECU, unplug it and use contact cleaner on the plug(concentrate on pin 10)...then try again ...and before u buy a new ECU try to use a nanocom(or T4 if u have the chance) cos the ACE menu on Hawkeye came with upgrade v.5 which might have a bug... u are not the first with this "corrupt data" issue
 
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sierrafery said:
Actually there are 3 types of ACE ECU's: RQT100022/'23/'24, AFAIK the ACE wasnt modifyed like the ABS was where the new kind of ECU has some internal mod's, but the ACE is connected to the SLABS ECU so it's possible that the new kind of ACE ECU is also addapted for the upgraded SLABS ECU... i didnt do it myself but IMO the safest thing is to put the original type of ECU.

by the way what's the problem? do you have a warning on dash and the only fault code shown is corrupt data? ... check for water ingress at the ECU, unplug it and use contact cleaner on the plug(concentrate on pin 10)...then try again ...and before u buy a new ECU try to use a nanocom(or T4 if u have the chance) cos the ACE menu on Hawkeye came with upgrade v.5 which might have a bug... u are not the first with this "corrupt data" issue
Click to expand...

oh i didn't know about the Hawkeye bug, that's good i can get my money back and buy the Nanocom :D (sales of goods act 1984 Para b sec c, unfit for purpose)

the fault is when i go around a right hand bend hard, the w/l flashes then goes static red. fluid level correct and no sign of leaks. you said in my original post it could be the valve block, pump or ecu.. (remember i was getting you a pint for your help :D)
so my plan was to replace ECU (no water ingress i've double checked)
then the pump,(got one from ebay) replace filter and fluid. then see what happens.
 
I can't confirm that there is a bug or not ..i said it might be a bug ...u better double check before u swap the hawkeye cos it's known that nanocom really has a connection problem with the SLABS ECU:(
 
sierrafery said:
...but not as buggered like those who dont have at all;) .... and about your plan with the ACE ...u better start with the end of your list... replace the filter and fluid first
Click to expand...

yes very true :eek:

ok new filter fluid and pump first.. might as well fir the pump now i've got it:rolleyes:
thanks yet again, your going to get so ****ed if we meet up with all the pints i owe you LOL
 
still think ECU is faulty.. ran test on Hawkeye and got a fail.. with these test results:-

Direction valve 1
60ms on time (15-60ms normal) so passed, just ithink
Direction valve 1
636ms off time (15-60ms normal) failed
Direction valve 1
1020ms (100-250ms normal) failed

Direction valve 2
48ms on time (15-60ms normal) passed
Diection valve 2
1020ms off time (15-60ms normal) failed
Direction valve 2
1020ms system time (100-250ms normal) failed

pressure valve
212ms on time (4-50ms normal) failed
pressure valve
1020ms system time (0-90ms normal) failed

and the DTC 36 fault code
"the last page of data was corruptat the last power up, so old data has been used. logged fault"

ok so if the valves are controlled by the ECU and failing test surely the ecu isn't sending the correct valve control time signals..hence a faulty ECU

is this right?
if the valve are sticking surely the ecu can't sense this? or can it?
 
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sierrafery said:
...but not as buggered like those who dont have at all;) .... and about your plan with the ACE ...u better start with the end of your list... replace the filter and fluid first
Click to expand...

errrr hows the best way to get the old oil out of the system?

was thinking of disconnecting the return pipe from the bottle and running the engine (old pump)
fit new pump and refill with new oil.. new filter first of course

or is there a better way??
 
open the tank's cap and remove the filter from the valve block with ignition off... then wait with patience untill the leak stops ...the pump is very sensitive and running without oil even for short time might ruin it.
 
sierrafery said:
open the tank's cap and remove the filter from the valve block with ignition off... then wait with patience untill the leak stops ...the pump is very sensitive and running without oil even for short time might ruin it.
Click to expand...

not fussed about the pump, fitting a new one anyway :rolleyes: :p :D
 
got round to sorting the ACE out today

changed the oil in the ace system with Dexon III

fitted new (flebay) pump

now even bloody worse!!!!!!
think the new pump is fubared, as i can't see any movement in the tank now :(
OH GOD WHY DID I BUY A DISCOVERY 2 TD5 GS ???????????????????? :rolleyes:
 
Just seen this thread so couldn't comment any sooner.

I think it highly unlikely that the problem will be solved by changing the oil in the ACE system tbh.

Re the new pump, if the pulley turns ok and the pump vane moves with it, it's ok.

Don't really see why you changed the pump either, but that's your choice of course.

If the issue that you are trying to solve is the apparent mismatch of valve times, then the issue is either within the ACE ecu which I doubt, or the valve block. Have you considered looking at the solenoid connector on the valve block to ensure a clean signal path?

I would be taking the connector apart, spraying the connections with Switch cleaner -nothing else! - and working them in and out a few times to ensure good contact.

If the issue is still there, consider replacing the solenoid with a new one.
Part no. RVG100010 - cost about £50.

Good luck

Dave

Ps If there is no swirling in the ACE header tank after the replacement pump, the connections could be the wrong way round.
 
thebiglad said:
Just seen this thread so couldn't comment any sooner.

I think it highly unlikely that the problem will be solved by changing the oil in the ACE system tbh.

Re the new pump, if the pulley turns ok and the pump vane moves with it, it's ok.

Don't really see why you changed the pump either, but that's your choice of course.

If the issue that you are trying to solve is the apparent mismatch of valve times, then the issue is either within the ACE ecu which I doubt, or the valve block. Have you considered looking at the solenoid connector on the valve block to ensure a clean signal path?

I would be taking the connector apart, spraying the connections with Switch cleaner -nothing else! - and working them in and out a few times to ensure good contact.

If the issue is still there, consider replacing the solenoid with a new one.
Part no. RVG100010 - cost about £50.

Good luck

Dave

Ps If there is no swirling in the ACE header tank after the replacement pump, the connections could be the wrong way round.
Click to expand...

the new pump was fitted as the Hawkeye fault codes said it had low pressure.
the new pump is faulty as it doesn't spit out the fluid like the old ones does. (old one now refitted, and alot of swirling about in tank now)

i think there is a big possibility that the ECU is faulty, coming up with a data corupt fault..

yeah i've checked and cleaned the solenoid's all functioning ok, also you can hear them engauge when activated by Hawkeye..
 
UPDATE

only just noticed that some total :censored::censored::censored:
has removed the rear ACE ram pipes and blanked them off on the valve block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no :censored: wonder i can't get the system to function as it should...

so any ide what damage this would do to the remaining system
and how to kill the warning light and bonging noise?
 
In this case imo it's time to convert to ARB's...unless u want to repair it and spend a lot of money... cos u have to put back two new pipes, maybe an actuator.... and after that u might realise that the valve block is fubar'd too.

u need for sure these:
1. LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 ACE PIPES V/BLOCK - REAR RAM | eBay

2. 2 x these LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 ACE VALVE BLOCK PIPE INSERT SEAL | eBay unless the previous botcher didnt ruin the holes in the block

maybe(but not sure) 1 x Britcar (UK) Ltd > RQK100000. ACE ACUTATOR FRONT & REAR DISCO11 (P)
and 1 x each : ANR6690, ANR6700, ANR6702, ANR6704, RVV100020 ... which you may improvise from something else though

and in the worst case an other valve block too :eek:

AFAIK the conversion to ARB's is around £300 if u DIY ... search for that cos there are a lot of threads

Untill then use your hawkeye and set it to non ACE(ACE not fitted) or something similar... afaik v.5 covers that too in the suspension menu but i've never been there and i dont want to make another mistake;)... if its as you said setting it to non ACE will not make any difference in ride cos the system works in locked bars condition
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
In this case imo it's time to convert to ARB's...unless u want to repair it and spend a lot of money... cos u have to put back two new pipes, maybe an actuator.... and after that u might realise that the valve block is fubar'd too.

u need for sure these:
1. LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 ACE PIPES V/BLOCK - REAR RAM | eBay

2. 2 x these LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 ACE VALVE BLOCK PIPE INSERT SEAL | eBay unless the previous botcher didnt ruin the holes in the block

maybe(but not sure) 1 x Britcar (UK) Ltd > RQK100000. ACE ACUTATOR FRONT & REAR DISCO11 (P)
and 1 x each : ANR6690, ANR6700, ANR6702, ANR6704, RVV100020 ... which you may improvise from something else though

and in the worst case an other valve block too :eek:

AFAIK the conversion to ARB's is around £300 if u DIY ... search for that cos there are a lot of threads

Untill then use your hawkeye and set it to non ACE(ACE not fitted) or something similar... afaik v.5 covers that too in the suspension menu but i've never been there and i dont want to make another mistake;)... if its as you said setting it to non ACE will not make any difference in ride cos the system works in locked bars condition
Click to expand...

not really wanting to convert the ARB's, i'll have to have a think

i'll have a look but don't think Hawkeye can turn off ACE ???
it will do the SLS... i'll report back
 
v.5 has ACE in the Chassis menu, and also "warning lamp" setting.... worth a try...i didnt do it myself so i can't confirm;)
 
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