ABS sensors

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alfapat

alfapat

Active Member
Posts
216
Location
Elgin
Recently replaced all sensors for the ABS system.
I replaced because they showed faulty and all sorts of Air susp. /HDC errors started to infect the system.
Unfortunately the rings at the rear were corroded beyond help as my replacement sensors including new fronts were not resolving all the errors.
After replacing the rear rings I fitted everything back together and I still have errors with all the ecu's unable to communicate.
What I did notice was that one of the new sensors suffered a good scraping due to corroded rings , the other not so bad .
What I need to know is what is the real depth required to the sensors in order to ascertain how much of the body have I lost due to scraping.
I can test them for resistance but not sure if they are picking up the correct signal.

My GAP IID Tool doesn't pick out the sensors to be faulty , but my other diagnostic does , saying the signal is implausible ? Do I take it they could be working but not close enough.
Any help please appreciated.
 
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First rule of range rover fault finding is your battery top notch and alternator charging correctly as low volts will throw up all sorts of weird faults.
 
brianp38dse said:
First rule of range rover fault finding is your battery top notch and alternator charging correctly as low volts will throw up all sorts of weird faults.
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Battery Good
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alfapat said:
Recently replaced all sensors for the ABS system.
I replaced because they showed faulty and all sorts of Air susp. /HDC errors started to infect the system.
Unfortunately the rings at the rear were corroded beyond help as my replacement sensors including new fronts were not resolving all the errors.
After replacing the rear rings I fitted everything back together and I still have errors with all the ecu's unable to communicate.
What I did notice was that one of the new sensors suffered a good scraping due to corroded rings , the other not so bad .
What I need to know is what is the real depth required to the sensors in order to ascertain how much of the body have I lost due to scraping.
I can test them for resistance but not sure if they are picking up the correct signal.

My GAP IID Tool doesn't pick out the sensors to be faulty , but my other diagnostic does , saying the signal is implausible ? Do I take it they could be working but not close enough.
Any help please appreciated.
Click to expand...


Hi

With the gap iid tool, have a look at the live data readings for ur abs sensors, they will show if there all the same

Don’t know if that’s any help

3DE17AEE-E875-4DF8-8711-6D46844D5BD1.jpeg
 
gstuart said:
Hi

With the gap iid tool, have a look at the live data readings for ur abs sensors, they will show if there all the same

Don’t know if that’s any help

View attachment 154730
Click to expand...
Well it is Ill try that maybe tonight, didnt know it was there.
My other diagnostic having removed and cleaned , which incidentally are are new had picked a little brown rust since assembly only dust seem to be clear of fault (ContyscanVdo) , but still canbus error and ebv fault..
Will the live data show with the rear up on stands?

Hmm appears not I will have jack up the front and spin the wheels
 
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alfapat said:
Well it is Ill try that maybe tonight, didnt know it was there.
My other diagnostic having removed and cleaned , which incidentally are are new had picked a little brown rust since assembly only dust seem to be clear of fault (ContyscanVdo) , but still canbus error and ebv fault..
Will the live data show with the rear up on stands?

Hmm appears not I will have jack up the front and spin the wheels
Click to expand...


I’ve also got an iid but use it for my D3 so it was just on the off chance if it may help as I’m familiar with the iid

Plus with it being 4 x wheel drive I don’t think ur be able to spin the wheels fast enough , that’s why i normally select the live data and take a quick drive round the block so u can then quickly see the speed matches with all 4 x sensors and working or not

Indeed plse let us know how u get on , the guys here are extremely knowledgeable
 
gstuart said:
I’ve also got an iid but use it for my D3 so it was just on the off chance if it may help as I’m familiar with the iid

Plus with it being 4 x wheel drive I don’t think ur be able to spin the wheels fast enough , that’s why i normally select the live data and take a quick drive round the block so u can then quickly see the speed matches with all 4 x sensors and working or not

Indeed plse let us know how u get on , the guys here are extremely knowledgeable
Click to expand...

Many thanks , will do , I am on other forums and with long threads , so getting a bit long winded this problem , it’s quite a procedure raising this old fella , to get the wheels off the ground and since the suspension is locked at normal height , it’s quite a way up!
Hopefully I can drive the wheels off the ground to give a reading ?
 
alfapat said:
Many thanks , will do , I am on other forums and with long threads , so getting a bit long winded this problem , it’s quite a procedure raising this old fella , to get the wheels off the ground and since the suspension is locked at normal height , it’s quite a way up!
Hopefully I can drive the wheels off the ground to give a reading ?
Click to expand...
355B0F83-209D-466E-9298-3ABFB7542DDA.png
 
Ok chickened out on driving with wheels in the air as I was wary of what the suspension might do
.Just to add , I forgot to say that I got no live readings from live values on speed sensors , weird or not , perhaps the ecus are not speaking to each other as seen in the above picture.


I am consistently getting the faults shown on the last pic I downloaded. One of which is the front left wheel speed sensor , 2 the rear right implausible signal and 3, a valve relay? The last one , the valve relay is unknown to me , but does it refer to a signal not received by the two sensors ?
I have measured the resistance of the front sensor which is new by the way and it reads the normal resistance as with the opposite side.
What am I missing out on here?
Possibly the rear as I said could be too far away nod from new rings as it got scuffed with old rings (before I replaced them ) but not badly .

I am as I try and progress through this problem logically process my progress ,.....I think the next step is to have another look at the Abs ring on the front left, I cleaned it out 3 wks ago but would the fault come up as no signal if given , would I get a resistance reading at the ABS PLUG ON MODULE , but a faulty reluctor ring might say no signal ?
 
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This machine is all over the place as far as finding faults, its very frustrating , however I have had some cautious progress, after some testing of values at the ABS plug and at the sensor plugs , to find why I wasnt getting a signal according to the diagnostics.
I then swapped the front sensors to see if the reluctor rings were giving me problems , the fronts have not been renewed by the way, and cleared down all faults and read again , ....... no faults! I then went for a small circle in my paddock and tried abs to see if any locking up occurred, and the usual lights returned , A BIG SIGH! I then cleared faults or read them again and ecus appeared abs , can bus faults and suspension. Turned off ign and turned on again , no amigos went for a calmer drive down my field and back and everything still ok ...... I dont know whats worse , happy with some cautious success worse because I really dont know if there is an underlying fault.
Personall I put it down to the front ABS Rings , if the sensors are finding a spot they are not happy with then its worth thinking about changing them .
Any opinions welcome.

Forgot to say I went out again with the disbelief that this problem is improving and turning on ignition the faults were back , cleared them down and hey presto clear! .. ? Even more Bizzare.

Further to this I have tried Live values on all speed sensors (ie abs sensors) on the Gap iid tool while all ecus were fighting each other and got nothing , I have since tried this again while all amigos have agreed and still nothing, again not sure what I am doing wrong there , but surely should be recording this on the sensors otherwise the present situation being there no faults would record this ?
 
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Came back to my Steed on Tuesday after leaving it with no faults and tried live values while all faults gone and it refused to show them . Sas I say started it today and all lights on again. Jumped out after going for a small run and switched off , closed the door in disgust went back in and started it and all lights off !!!!!!!
Looked for faults and rear right , front right and left sensor plausibility? Woud this mean intermittant fault or probable cause ?

Any way cleared this away and left with 0xBD Fuction fault received from ABS ECU .
Help please , where is this going , please read previous threads.
 
alfapat said:
Came back to my Steed on Tuesday after leaving it with no faults and tried live values while all faults gone and it refused to show them . Sas I say started it today and all lights on again. Jumped out after going for a small run and switched off , closed the door in disgust went back in and started it and all lights off !!!!!!!
Looked for faults and rear right , front right and left sensor plausibility? Woud this mean intermittant fault or probable cause ?

Any way cleared this away and left with 0xBD Fuction fault received from ABS ECU .
Help please , where is this going , please read previous threads.
Click to expand...
You are experiencing the doubtful benefits of interconnecting all the systems. Faulty sensors, corroded connectors, corroded OBD connector, bad earths, dodgy diagnostic kit, sorry but the list is endless.
Perhaps, if you can find a volunteer, you could see if your diagnostic kit shows the data you want on a car with no faults, at least then you would know it's the car and not the diagnostics.
 
Datatek said:
You are experiencing the doubtful benefits of interconnecting all the systems. Faulty sensors, corroded connectors, corroded OBD connector, bad earths, dodgy diagnostic kit, sorry but the list is endless.
Perhaps, if you can find a volunteer, you could see if your diagnostic kit shows the data you want on a car with no faults, at least then you would know it's the car and not the diagnostics.
Click to expand...

Many thanks for your reply , its good to hear other thoughts when your going round in circles.
I have two diagnostics it happens so it does help and between them they both show the faults albeit in different ways , so definitely the car .

What its telling me I think is because it seems to be intermittent , so I have moved on from this problem a bit .After checking out the front reluctor rings (abs) I noticed they were polished and thats not right so IM thinking , the're rubbing on something to do that and due to fact that my abs was registering a plausibility with the diagnostic , I decided to bite the bullet and extract the front driveshaft.

So this has confirmed things for me , I feel that the front abs rings are just plausible for the sensors to pick up a signal .
I have partially overcome this in the rear rings , so I am just trying to run this theory past some other people that may be experiancing similar problems.
a23uol.jpg
 
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Ok any good tips to get this driveshaft to release it out of the diff , despite using bars , hammer etc. please
 
kds said:
Why remove it from the diff, not looked into it can you not buy the rings on there own, I know they are for other makes.
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The rings are bought from UK Parts and due the corrosion ton the end of the ring seat they come with a bearing fit fluid and with that its better out in order to clean up the shaft and allow the ring to sit on the ledge vertically and set in its proper position, I have done the rears this way and its easier out, ball ache I know , but having done the rears it makes a better job do it this way....Thanks.
 
Why don't you just replace the CV joint instead? It'll save a lot of grief faffing with the abs ring..
Cut open the CV boot and with a sharp tap on the CV joint inner core and it'll pop off.. to realease it from the diff just get a good bar behind the inner drive shaft joint and pop it out of the casing. Then onto a bench and replace the CV joint. Winner!!:cool:
 
Shaft out , turned 180 and no bother , would have to buy a rubber boot and cv joint? , lol, trying to watch pennies!
All cleaned up and painted , ready for new ring.
 
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