abs issues

Hi all

First off thanks to everyone for all the advice

My dads freelander was bought as a cheap n chearfull runners with abs and traction control faults. It's a 2001 1.8gs

Have changed the brake pedal switch to the later type.

Fixed the wiring on the hdc switch on the gearlever.

Changed the two front wheel sensors

Changed discs pads and rear shoes

Got everything back together all the lights went out when driving thev hdc worked all seemed well.

Was bedding in the brakes felt the pulse of abs as soon as I braked, continued on by now the brakes were grabbing at the passenger frontand under heavy breaking pulling violently to the kerbside.

I didn't have time to jack the car up to check the sliders on the callipers were free but disconnected a front abs sensor to disable the abs and still jeep the Speedo working took it out and this time the brakes felt good no abs patter and stopped nice and even.

So its an abs issue

Only part I didn't change was the front reluctor rings.

So my question is could damaged rings cause this?
I have heard of them causing the patter and pulsing at lower speeds but not the pulling to one side
With the abs connected the car is undivable.
So is this a known ring fault or is there something seriously wrong with the abs?

All comments greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hi, no wish to Hi-Jack your thread but I have VERY similar issues as follows.
Mines a 99/2000 w plate freelander 1, L-series diesel.
I have the 3 amigos shining away, so I took the following action to try to cure.

1 checked the HDC switch, found it with broken wires and the switch itself dislodged....quite happy to find this as an easy repair....refitting and soldered up....... Still have 3 amigos

2 Next I bought the hippo with only 1 key and fob....so off I go to the scrap yard and buy 2 used fobs and had 2 keys cut. Rang local auto electrician who charged me £45 to program me new fobs up.... BUT WHILE there sweet talked him into reading the codes..... OSF ABS sensor he says and clears all codes for me...no extra charge

3 Jack up front remove both wheels to check reluctor rings....both are secure but looked lightly damaged.......So onto flea-bay I buy 2 reluctor rings and a sensor. I spend a whole afternoon thrashing the old sensor and eventually im victorious, 2 front reluctor rings fitted and new OSF ABS sensor fitted......
RESULT IS..... still have 3 amigos grinning away at me But now even ordinary brake pedal pressure trips in a full ABS braking action pulling up my hippo very short.... In this state its UNDRIVEABLE :scratching_chin:

4 Another code read reveals......ta dah...... no faults ..... code reader guy unplugs the lower of the two connectors to my ABS ( Wabco ) pump. Its a grey connector........ RESULT is its now drivable, no ABS action and still the 3 amigos are there taking the mickey.

What would the wisdom of the forum recommend as a next move ? Im thinking brake light switch.... but I had always thought it was later FLs that had this prob not the early ones..... switch fitted has 2 wires on simple blade connectors

I have a feeling the problem on my hippo may well be the same as the original posters ????

HELP...... Dave

Have you put the new rings in the right location. I no the person above hasn't fitted but had to be asked

Yes there located correctly, be pretty hard to get em wrong lol.

Reading between lines the original poster has done the brake light switch, Ive done the reluctor rings and we have the same problem. The pulling to one side thing is a fault with brakes but MAY be unrelated. The underlying fault where the ABS trips in prematurely seems the same..... Im hoping its not a new ABS pump that's reqd

Sorry jump in but my concern is that with abs disabled the car stops fine no grabbing or pulling to one side or anything untoward.
Yes I reconnect the sensors all the lights go out and everything works but abs triggers straight away and grabs the brakes at one side making the car dangerous to drive.
I checked rings they are intact nit missing any sectors etc but slow some flattened areas. I was planning to replace them but after breaking my 3/4 drive socket I decided the hub nuts werebt coming off!
My dad now wants to get shot of the car as he thinks it beyond repair! I need to find a solution soon or no more gaylander!
So bearing in mind the system self checks ok I presume thus means the sensors and air gaps are ok?
So is there a major problem with the abs or do the symptons fut with damaged rings?
Thanks

Mine checks out as no faults on diagnosis equipment. To my mind that means no electrical issues ?? therefore that means a mechanical issue....hence my worrying about the ABS pump. Lots of valves and allsorts there. Im happy its not reluctor rings simply as mine are brand spanking new.

higgy77 said:

Sorry jump in but my concern is that with abs disabled the car stops fine no grabbing or pulling to one side or anything untoward.
Yes I reconnect the sensors all the lights go out and everything works but abs triggers straight away and grabs the brakes at one side making the car dangerous to drive.
I checked rings they are intact nit missing any sectors etc but slow some flattened areas. I was planning to replace them but after breaking my 3/4 drive socket I decided the hub nuts werebt coming off!
My dad now wants to get shot of the car as he thinks it beyond repair! I need to find a solution soon or no more gaylander!
So bearing in mind the system self checks ok I presume thus means the sensors and air gaps are ok?
So is there a major problem with the abs or do the symptons fut with damaged rings?
Thanks

Click to expand...

I expect you will find a split reluctor ring on the side the abs is activating. The ABS ECU is receiving a broken pulse sequence so is assuming that the wheel is locking.
Oh and it's a FREElander

Oops freelander then sorry slip of the tongue as so to speak lol
I have checked the rings no splits or missings sectors but a couple of the sectors have been slightly flattened and there is line scored thro the whole diameter of the ring like something has got trapped or made contact with it.
I will see if I can find someone with a big enough impact gun to slacken the hub nuts as I destroyed all my hand tools trying lol and yes I was using a 3/4 drive t bar bent it still won't loosen!
I can only hope this sorts it as an abs pump is not an option as the car isn't worth that much (high miles 2wd - knackred vcu and prop bearings) so it will be sold scrapped if that's the case sadly
Shame as had tcs and hdc all working again as well just abs playing up yet with it disconnected the car drives great so much so my dad wants to use it and not bother fixing it! Different story if it was his beloved p38 mind!

The flattened sections would be enough to upset the system if the sensor it a bit to far from the ring. Those hub nuts can be a challenge sometimes.

Hi again, for those super tight nuts.....I went to my local MOT centre (run by an old school friend) and got them to use their impact air gun to remove them....grease the threads then refit. I then got them off at home easily.

As far as ABS pumps go ive scanned flea-bay and there around £40-ish second hand, make sure all part numbers match up. fittings easy if you can manage a little brake bleeding ??
someone say this is so ????

Are you thinking our probs may be a diff fault.

if your going to swap the ABS i would recommend doing the disco shuttle valve bypass

when i was having problems with mine i did this and one of my fault codes went without buying new shuttle valves and stuff and once i looked at the connection inside it was failing as what the guide said

doesnt cost anything to do but a bit of wire and a bit of soldering

always your choice people here will prop say dnt do it but im glad i did

matt I always thought the by-pass only applied to discos and hummers, does it also apply to the hippo then ??? If so is there a how to guide on here that will aid a cack handed spanner monkey like me ?
Is it worth a few quid to simply swop the brake light switch or is it not going to be that ? mines a simple plunger type switch with 2 wires connected by blade connectors.

mmmm food for thought will try the rings first see what happens

yeah gonna try the impact gun route if i find a local garage willing lol or failong that raid my work for the heavy duty inch drive toys!

thanks for the input guys just go to get the passenger window sorted then its a usable car!

higgy77 said:

Oops freelander then sorry slip of the tongue as so to speak lol
I have checked the rings no splits or missings sectors but a couple of the sectors have been slightly flattened and there is line scored thro the whole diameter of the ring like something has got trapped or made contact with it.
I will see if I can find someone with a big enough impact gun to slacken the hub nuts as I destroyed all my hand tools trying lol and yes I was using a 3/4 drive t bar bent it still won't loosen!
I can only hope this sorts it as an abs pump is not an option as the car isn't worth that much (high miles 2wd - knackred vcu and prop bearings) so it will be sold scrapped if that's the case sadly
Shame as had tcs and hdc all working again as well just abs playing up yet with it disconnected the car drives great so much so my dad wants to use it and not bother fixing it! Different story if it was his beloved p38 mind!

Click to expand...

you need a long bar and a socket with flat sides the ones they use on the impact gun as the nut has to be tightened to a staggering 290Lbs or 400Nm

tightrning it up is the least of my worries I use large stuff in my work on a regular basis so 400nm is fine but i have had a longer bar than i would use for 1100nm and it still wont shift very siezed! but will get the bugger off somehow just notice the new nuts i got are dofferent size across the flats very helpful have to get 2 sizes of impact socket now grrrr

higgy77 said:

tightrning it up is the least of my worries I use large stuff in my work on a regular basis so 400nm is fine but i have had a longer bar than i would use for 1100nm and it still wont shift very siezed! but will get the bugger off somehow just notice the new nuts i got are dofferent size across the flats very helpful have to get 2 sizes of impact socket now grrrr

Click to expand...

whats wrong with old nuts

2 pin switches will not affect 3 amigos it takes the feed from the ecu not supply like the later ones

As I said about that mod I had the pump out for the switch replacement and while looking I took what I could apart and I found the same pins to be in poor condition so I did the mod

While the pump is out it takes maybe 5 mins to modify the wires and then once fitted you fit one with. Ring terminal to earth and the other to black red wire that goes to the pump

If your taking ur pump out I don't see the harm in doing it I'm glad I did

matt1295 said:

2

As I said about that mod I had the pump out for the switch replacement and while looking I took what I could apart and I found the same pins to be in poor condition so I did the mod

While the pump is out it takes maybe 5 mins to modify the wires and then once fitted you fit one with. Ring terminal to earth and the other to black red wire that goes to the pump

If your taking ur pump out I don't see the harm in doing it I'm glad I did

Click to expand...

Definitely worth doing the Disco Shuttle Valve Switch wiring mod if you are removing the ABS unit. When mine plays up I'll do it.

Ok, will leave the brake switch alone.

New plan is, not to buy a used ABS pump but spend the same £40 on the shuttle valve repair kit and remove my existing ABS pump, fit the repair kit then do the by-pass mod refit bleed up and see.

Good idea ? :decision:

OH as a PS, it seems the diagnostic gear used on my hippo that says no codes/faults may not be a high enough spec to read "everything" :violent:
Is there a home use diagnostic kit that's accepted as a good buy and most usefull ?

Hawkeye is a diagnostic tool used by members

if you list where your from in your profile there could be a member close to you with the tool already