ABS front sensor for 2005 Freelander 1 TD4

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On mine, the lights went out on their own :)

However, to clear the error from the ECU, you need either a T4 or one of the other aftermarket devices. It's not essential to do.

Interestingly, the ABS illumination sequence reveals whether there is a retained fault. When you turn the ignition on, the ABS light should come on, go out, and then come back on again. If it stays on and eventually goes out after the road speed exceeds 4mph, then the ECU has a stored fault code. Mine now goes out as it should after borrowing a friends T4 :) (On my car, the accelerometer/ G-sensor was also faulty... what fun! ;))
 
rob_bell said:
On mine, the lights went out on their own :)

However, to clear the error from the ECU, you need either a T4 or one of the other aftermarket devices. It's not essential to do.

Interestingly, the ABS illumination sequence reveals whether there is a retained fault. When you turn the ignition on, the ABS light should come on, go out, and then come back on again. If it stays on and eventually goes out after the road speed exceeds 4mph, then the ECU has a stored fault code. Mine now goes out as it should after borrowing a friends T4 :) (On my car, the accelerometer/ G-sensor was also faulty... what fun! ;))
Click to expand...

An 05 FL1 uses active sensors. So the ABS light goes out after 2 seconds. If it doesn't, a fault is detected.
 
Elv73 said:
I do actually have a 25l compressor (and two windy guns) but its about as much use as a chocolate fire guard for removing stubborn nuts. Doesn't even have enough oomph to remove wheel nuts most of the time!
It only gets used for inflating tyres and blowing dust, swarf and general crud off things!
Click to expand...
25L is not enough for a windy gun - most require 50L MINIMUM. Also make sure you put a couple of drops of oil in the intakes before and after use. They should be plenty powerful enough for wheel nuts.
 
guineafowl21 said:
25L is not enough for a windy gun - most require 50L MINIMUM. Also make sure you put a couple of drops of oil in the intakes before and after use. They should be plenty powerful enough for wheel nuts.
Click to expand...
you can use an empty gas bottle and a y connector as extra res capacity for air guns,you have to wait for full pressure but you have the air then for reasonable gun effort
 
Just use a breaker bar, a stout tube and quality single hex socket of the correct size. Also release the hub nut with the wheel on the ground. You can get much more control of a socket and breaker bar with the wheel on the ground. I don't bother with a windy gun for the hub nut. A breaker with extension is all that's required.
 
Nodge68 said:
Just use a breaker bar, a stout tube and quality single hex socket of the correct size. Also release the hub nut with the wheel on the ground. You can get much more control of a socket and breaker bar with the wheel on the ground. I don't bother with a windy gun for the hub nut. A breaker with extension is all that's required.
Click to expand...
Maybe.... if you weigh 35 stone and jump off the garage roof onto said breaker bar :)
 
The trick with really tight hub nuts is to remove any spring out of the removal system employed. So wheels on the ground. Wheels chocked with HB on and in a low gear. The breaker needs to be of stout design and sufficiently long to give a good mechanical leverage. It also helps to support the bottom of the bar, so as to act as a lower lever point. This removes any twist at the nut, forcing it to rotate only. If the nut is too tight for the breaker alone, then a stiff tube needs to be added to increase leverage.
Using this technique, almost unlimited torque can be applied, so care in needed not to exceed the socket or drive system capacity.
It's preferable to apply the torque and hold it for a few minutes. Continued pressure is more effective than "bouncing" on the breaker bar.
Using this technique and many years experience, I would guarantee being able to undo any Freelander hub nut. If someone local wants me to release there's, then I'll happily do it and show how it's done. ;)
 
Last edited:
Or simply use it (as I did) as an excuse to get some decent air tools and compressor! LOL ;)

I do have a nice, long extension bar, which I used to set the wheel nut torque, as Neil suggested on the aforementioned thread. I am sure it could have been used to remove it too - but it was bending and there was no movement - and windy gun made very light work of it :D
 
Nodge68 said:
The trick with really tight hub nuts is to remove any splring out of the removal system employed. So wheels on the ground. Wheels chocked with HB on and in a low gear. The breaker needs to be of stout design and sufficiently long to give a good mechanical leverage. It also helps to support the bottom of the bar, so as to act as a lower lever point. This removes any twist at the nut, forcing it to rotate only. If the nut is too tight for the breaker alone, then a stiff tube needs to be added to increase leverage.
Using this technique, almost unlimited torque can be applied, so care in needed not to exceed the socket or drive system capacity.
It's preferable to apply the torque and hold it for a few minutes. Continued pressure is more effective than "bouncing" on the breaker bar.
Using this technique and many years experience, I would guarantee being able to undo any Freelander hub nut. If someone local wants me to release there's, then I'll happily do it and show how it's done. ;)
Click to expand...
I bought a 1.2m 3/4" breaker bar to shift one and still needed a scaffolding pole plus me and my son swinging on it. :eek:
 
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