ABS Fault still there after repair TD5

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MJI

MJI

Well-Known Member
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Location
Worcester
Reader said right front sensor, so fitted new hub with new sensor. Grease was tatty in old hub anyway.

Still got errors, the computer says that the pulses are approximately twice as fast coming from the right front than any of the other wheels, also says intermittant.

Any ideas please?

HELP!!!!
 
OK more info.

3 are reading 8 when the other is reading 20, but it varies between 8 and 20 and is intermittant.

The mechanic also spun them by hand to compare by side.

Now to some stupid questions, but what route does the drivers front ABS wire take?

Does it pass near any other cables, eg crank sensor?
 
Where did the new hub come from ? In the past I have diagnosed faulty new hubs on a DII that had the wrong number of teeth on the releuctor rings.Made the traction control come on at 55mph on a straight line... Found the fault with an oscilliscope by comparing the waveforms from old and new hubs. The hubs were supplied by an Ebay seller who wasn't keen on a refund.Alot of dodgy parts are on sale...
 
eightinavee said:
Where did the new hub come from ? In the past I have diagnosed faulty new hubs on a DII that had the wrong number of teeth on the releuctor rings.Made the traction control come on at 55mph on a straight line... Found the fault with an oscilliscope by comparing the waveforms from old and new hubs. The hubs were supplied by an Ebay seller who wasn't keen on a refund.Alot of dodgy parts are on sale...
Click to expand...

It came from M&M 4x4, and produces similar symtoms as the old hub.

Also was 2.0 to 2.5 the pulse rate, VERY confused
 
cambridgecockney said:
Have you got push fit connectors on sensors.if so take em off and solder wires.also could be sensor not seated correct.i find also some work ok with o ring others without.
Click to expand...

When the weather dries up I will be checking the route.

Very odd as it was the same fault with the old hub, old hub was on the edge of failing so not disappointed at that as such.

And it stumped my tame mechanic, probably as he didn't want to create a huge bill.
 
get some readings with that sensor unplugged... if you'll get signal then imo it's ECU internal fault

or to make 100% certain unplug C0505 and see if you get reading for that sensor this way, if no reading with tester get a digital voltmeter set it to AC 10V scale and measure on the sensor's pins in the plug while somebody drives your car, you have the connector and pin disposals attached, wiring is as follows
C0505
1 Front left wheel speed Input
2 Front left wheel speed Input
3 Rear right wheel speed Input
4 Front right wheel speed Input
5 Front right wheel speed Input
6 Rear right wheel speed Input
7 Rear left wheel speed Input
8 Rear left wheel speed Input
 

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sierrafery said:
get some readings with that sensor unplugged... if you'll get signal then imo it's ECU internal fault

or to make 100% certain unplug C0505 and see if you get reading for that sensor this way, if no reading with tester get a digital voltmeter set it to AC 10V scale and measure on the sensor's pins in the plug while somebody drives your car, you have the connector and pin disposals attached, wiring is as follows
C0505
1 Front left wheel speed Input
2 Front left wheel speed Input
3 Rear right wheel speed Input
4 Front right wheel speed Input
5 Front right wheel speed Input
6 Rear right wheel speed Input
7 Rear left wheel speed Input
8 Rear left wheel speed Input
Click to expand...

Thanks

Can I unplug it under the brake servo?

If so I will get my mechanic to try that first as he has the code reader used.

Then I will get a small boy to operate volt meter

Is it worth buying a spare ECU just in case (found on on Ebay)?

I think I need to buy a Nanocom!

Personally I would love an oscilliscope
 
Just seen your other threads, some good research there.:cool2:

If it is the ECU is it possible I could repair it?

I am reasonable competent, for example I converted a VCR to NICAM about 20 years ago.

But above tests before we go further.
 
Still not had a dry day to dig it out, but the local LR specialist do not know of any reason I am getting this issue.

If I cannot sort by the weekend, I will let them have a quick look.
 
Well I have found the SLABS did not remove it as the clouds looked ominous.

Unplugged, no corrosion, pretty sure it was dry.

Also spoke to a LR mechanic (looked about 12) no real idea what to check.
 
Will be taking Sierrafery's notes to my mechanic as he has a minion to help him, as well as a code reader which works.

If wiring or ECU I will repair wiring, if ECU I will check it over, if need an ECU will have to find somewhere to code a new one (SLS) as not too sure on the abilities of the 12 Y/O at the local place.
 
Asked the above people, not confident about doing it, I am unsure on the local LR place as he seemed very unsure on SLABS. So looks like me and a tame 14 Y/O.

So here are some questions.

1) Is a resistance check at the SLABS plug worth doing?
2) Will it be worth getting an oscilliscope (suggested to me)?
3) What would I need to reconfigure a new SLABS ECU for the SL section?

Sorry to be a pain

Thanks

Martin
 
OK after checking over the ACE ECU I realised wrong one!

Anyway, no moisture in SLABS, no broken joints, I then got a small boy to hold volt meter probes in position

At about 5mph

Front Left 0.15v AC
Front Right 0.45v AC

Both were SAME resistance.

Very odd!
 
MJI said:
OK after checking over the ACE ECU I realised wrong one!

Anyway, no moisture in SLABS, no broken joints, I then got a small boy to hold volt meter probes in position

At about 5mph

Front Left 0.15v AC
Front Right 0.45v AC

Both were SAME resistance.

Very odd!
Click to expand...
Not pushed fully home to the reluctor ring?
 
hi there i have several wabco slabs ecus i will send you one to try out it works i am open for offers if it dosent work just send it back
regards
Michael
 
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