Abs fault, freelander 1

Hi!
In my freelander 1 -99 there is 3 amigos. When i read obd2 codes i get "right rear sensor, permanent" and few times i have get also "left rear sensor, intermittent" and "right rear sensor, intermittent". I replaced right rear sensor and i drived about 60km/h and then i tried to remove codes they disappeared and i turned ignition switch of and on and the code "right rear sensor, permanent" came back. What should i do?

Mine have all been going (2001 130,000), as these old hubs rust, the rust expands and splits the toothy metal ring that feeds the signal to the sensors.
The garage that fixes my car, always checks the ring as well as the sensor. Around £75 per repair if just the sensor, £250 if they need a new hub/ring assembly.

dampsox said:

Mine have all been going (2001 130,000), as these old hubs rust, the rust expands and splits the toothy metal ring that feeds the signal to the sensors.
The garage that fixes my car, always checks the ring as well as the sensor. Around £75 per repair if just the sensor, £250 if they need a new hub/ring assembly.

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I checked ring aswell but it looks just fine

NIgor said:

I checked ring aswell but it looks just fine

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If it's not the sensor or reluctor ring then it's probably a wiring problem. Trace the right rear sensor to the main connector on the ABS modulator. Unplug the connector, and ohm the pins while an assistant wiggles the entire length of the sensor wires.

guineafowl21 said:

If it's not the sensor or reluctor ring then it's probably a wiring problem. Trace the right rear sensor to the main connector on the ABS modulator. Unplug the connector, and ohm the pins while an assistant wiggles the entire length of the sensor wires.

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I unplugged connector from abs box and checked ohms from pin 3 and 6(rear right sensor) and my multimeter shows 1.1300 kOhms. Is it good or bad?
My fault code reader is autocom cdp maybe it isn't enough good to remove codes? When i press remove fault codes it removes them and when i deconnect my computer lights won't go off as in youtube videos.
I took it to bosch car service and they couldn't even read codes...

Might it just be the brake light switch?

Colonial said:

Might it just be the brake light switch?

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Lets try, i will order new one or can i test that old?

Only if you know someone who has recently replaced their switch. Borrow it and find out if that resolves the matter.

Colonial said:

Only if you know someone who has recently replaced their switch. Borrow it and find out if that resolves the matter.

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This is quite rare car in finland so i will order new

NIgor said:

This is quite rare car in finland so i will order new

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Nigor.
I replaced mine quite recently. It cost about £39.00. If they're really expensive over there, let me know and perhaps we can arrange something by post.

NIgor said:

I unplugged connector from abs box and checked ohms from pin 3 and 6(rear right sensor) and my multimeter shows 1.1300 kOhms. Is it good or bad?
My fault code reader is autocom cdp maybe it isn't enough good to remove codes? When i press remove fault codes it removes them and when i deconnect my computer lights won't go off as in youtube videos.
I took it to bosch car service and they couldn't even read codes...

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I can't remember exactly what the resistance value should be, but that sounds reasonable. Ohm another ABS connector (one which has no faults logged) and compare.

Regardless of the resistance, you need to make sure the wiring is intact by wiggling all along it while measuring.

on mine the td4 2002 the abs tc stays on even when the faulty sensor was replaced. Turned out the hub ring strip was faulty but the hub was perfect. I would have cost me 145 beerchits to replaced and recode or live with lights being on. Hey I chose the latter because i cannot afford it

saxavordian said:

on mine the td4 2002 the abs tc stays on even when the faulty sensor was replaced. Turned out the hub ring strip was faulty but the hub was perfect. I would have cost me 145 beerchits to replaced and recode or live with lights being on. Hey I chose the latter because i cannot afford it

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Will it get through the MOT with the ABS light on? It wouldn't get through our WOF.

GrumpyGel said:

Will it get through the MOT with the ABS light on? It wouldn't get through our WOF.

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Well mine failed because there was no lights showing on start up. The mechanic who repaired the problem found that the dash light not blown but sealed up with silicon sealant. They manage to clear the code to pass the test but the hub rings are the cause of the ABS TC lights to stay on.

no they will fail it with abs lights on .

new brake light switch cured my 3 amigos

Now i have replaced right rear and left front sensors and left front abs ring. After that i erased codes and light went off. But after few hundred meter in corner light turned on. Fault codes are now left front abs sensor output too low. I can erase it and light goes off but in next corner it comes back. It is always corner.
Did i made some mistake while installing front sensor? How much there should be space between sensor and ring?

Sounds like the sensor wiring as going open circuit when the steering is turned. You're probably looking at another new sensor. Unless the wheel bearing is really loose.