Freelander 2 (LR2) ABS Failure & No Start

Hi all,
Another week, another LR problem.

On the weekend, I was driving up a hill when out of nowhere, the speedo read 0 kph, engine temp was overheating and fuel gauge was zero.
Also had all the bleeps and lights flashing.

Pulled over, read the codes and cleared. After which the car wouldn't start and all electronics, including central locking wouldn't work - had to get the wife to reach into the boot to get some tools out as the boot door was stuck locked.

Disconnected the negative terminal on the battery and thankfully, all was fine and the car hasn't had any issues since. Obviously, I don't want to drive this car like this and was wondering what the underlying cause could be (FYI, I had rear wheel bearings replaced last week so wondering if this could be a cause?)

They were all mostly ABS and ABS data codes:

U0121(00) - Lost Communication with Anti-lock Brake System Module .
P193B(00) - Throttle/pedal signal
B10A2(68) - Crash input
P0915(29) - Gear shift position - circuit range/performance
P0564(82) - Speed control/cruise control
P164C(00) - internal control module - start/stop performance
U0415(62) - Invalid data received from ABS control module
U0415(81) - Invalid data received from ABS control module
U0415(86) - Invalid data received from ABS control module

All above codes were test failed, not pending codes.

Took back to the garage who did the bearing replacements and they say that based on the codes the ABS module lost connection with the ECU and it's likely the fault of a loose connection. Not particularly happy with this explanation as it has never happened before and only happed a few days after a bearing change.

A discharged or failing battery can cause most of those codes. How old is the battery, and has the vehicle been left with a door open for an extended period?
Unfortunately these vehicles have a very high power requirement, so a weak battery can cause all sorts of odd things to happen. It's a good idea to check the alternator output too, as a failing alternator will allow the battery to discharge, resulting in many codes.

Nodge68 said:

A discharged or failing battery can cause most of those codes. How old is the battery, and has the vehicle been left with a door open for an extended period?
Unfortunately these vehicles have a very high power requirement, so a weak battery can cause all sorts of odd things to happen. It's a good idea to check the alternator output too, as a failing alternator will allow the battery to discharge, resulting in many codes.

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Thanks for the pointing me in the right direction.
I've got a battery tester that I'll hook up to see what it says.

Interestingly, I did have a bluetooth battery monitor thing installed that I ended up removing in the midst of the chaos of being stuck in a broken down car and a baby screaming in the back.

Charging my phone today using a USB socket says that battery voltage was at 14v while driving so I'm guessing the alternator must be doing its job?

The alternator charge voltage needs checking with an accurate meter. The battery voltage should be above 12.6 after resting for 12 hours. The alternator output should be above 14.2 Volts with every electric item turned on, including the heated screens and PCT heater if fitted.
If either of these voltages aren't met, when either the battery (not holding above 12.6V) or the alternator are suspect.

Your CRASH status code will only be generated if the BCM registers a battery voltage below 8.5V while the ignition is turned on.

hi again,

Had the same issue again.
Took the in laws to the train station and on the way back, I got all the bongs and lights - pic attached. I was actually driving at the time but lost the speedo.

I have a usb charger in the car that shows battery voltage and once the engine was off and accessories on, it read 11.8v, with accessories off, it read 12v

Engine running and it was showing 13.3v.
I’m so think this is a battery issue so will be off to get a new one in the morning.

Never a dull moment owning an LR.

I'm surprised you waited a over month to decide to replace the battery. When mine first started to crank slowly, I replaced the battery with a larger better quality one. An unreliable battery is a breakdown waiting to happen.

Nodge68 said:

I'm surprised you waited an over month to decide to replace the battery. When mine first started to crank slowly, I replaced the battery with a larger better quality one. An unreliable battery is a breakdown waiting to happen.

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Well unfortunately after spending £200 on a new battery, I just had the exact same thing happen again.

I think I’m going to punt this car on, we don’t have the budget to be throwing money at this car with a major house renovation going on.