A number of issues that may be linked.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

sphilli2004

New Member
Posts
63
Location
Preston, Lancs
Hi all,

My name is Steve, I live in preston and I now drive a 1998 300tdi 3dr Disco and apart from my intro post this is my first proper post, I appreciate the help you will hopefully give.

As I have said I just got a 300tdi and I have noticed it leaking from the rear diff (approximately a 4" patch of fluid after a couple of hours) on top of this the handbrake light remains on although the handbrake is disengaged fully.
It is under an AA warranty (not sure if it is any good) so if needs be I can send it back for repair or if it is a minor job I can do the work myself.

Once a gain thanks for the help, I have no intention of posting and running, hopefully I will be able to contribute to the forum myself. (in-car entertainment is my speciality)
 
Where on the diff is the leak? It is most likely either the seal on the input shaft or a pinhole caused by rust in the casing. Both are straightforward to repair (if you are mechanically minded), but I would start by taking it back and complaining.

I have no experience of the handbrake light staying on, but again, I would start by taking back and saying "fix this"
 
What rich' says regarding the diff'. The 'Handbrake' light caught me out like a good un. Mine would come on when it felt like it with the hanbrake off, so I adjusted the striker on the handbrake for the switch... no joy. Changed the switch...no joy.
Turns out it's the handbrake/fluid level light, topped up the brake fluid...sorted. :)
 
Where on the diff is the leak? It is most likely either the seal on the input shaft or a pinhole caused by rust in the casing. Both are straightforward to repair (if you are mechanically minded), but I would start by taking it back and complaining.

I have no experience of the handbrake light staying on, but again, I would start by taking back and saying "fix this"
Yes - try the warranty first. Rear diffs are prone to rusting. there have been posts on how to weld them up or fill them with "liquid metal", but some time ago, so they may have dropped off the edge. If your axle breather is blocked it could cause pressure, forcing the oil out.

Check your handbook for the warning light. I don't have a TDi any more, but the light may double as a brake fluid warning light, brake pad wear light, etc. There's also an ABS light if fitted.

Oh, and welcome!:)
 
What rich' says regarding the diff'. The 'Handbrake' light caught me out like a good un. Mine would come on when it felt like it with the hanbrake off, so I adjusted the striker on the handbrake for the switch... no joy. Changed the switch...no joy.
Turns out it's the handbrake/fluid level light, topped up the brake fluid...sorted. :)
Ah! Like the man said. Brake fluid warning. This could be low fluid or a faulty switch in the reservoir cap.
 
if it is under warranty i would recommend trying to get the work done as a warranty repair , however some of these warranties are not worth the paper they are written on and will only cover failure of major components and not cover oil leaks etc .
try anyway but you may be told it's not covered in the warranty.

give your diff a good clean with a wire brush and then watch to see where the oil comes from ... my front diff had a rust hole which was successfully cured with chemical metal .

hope you get it sorted soon
 
Thank you all for your advice.

I will call it up on the warranty first, if no joy I will wire brush the diff and see where it is coming from. third gear is crunching as well so I may get that sorted at the same time.
I will go and check the brake fluid now.
 
I have checked the Brake fluid and it was low (it was overfilled when I got it) when I put pressure on the brakes a bit squirts out of the t piece over the rear diff. the light has gone out now I have topped it up.
 
I have checked the Brake fluid and it was low (it was overfilled when I got it) when I put pressure on the brakes a bit squirts out of the t piece over the rear diff. the light has gone out now I have topped it up.



So you have a leak of brake fluid - this couldn't be the same leak that you thought was a diff oil leak could it?
 
So you have a leak of brake fluid - this couldn't be the same leak that you thought was a diff oil leak could it?

I think it may very well be. I cannot cast aspersion on the dealers character however I feel he knew there was an issue and he over filled the brake fluid so it would be a while before it became evident.
 
I think it may very well be. I cannot cast aspersion on the dealers character however I feel he knew there was an issue and he over filled the brake fluid so it would be a while before it became evident.



As this is a fundemental safety issue, I would suggest that you document very carefully what action you take, as there may be legal action which follows.


When you approach the supplying dealer don't just talk to them, but give them a letter which identifies all the issues, and keep a copy for future reference.

The local trading stds people will be very interested in this and your dealer will be aware that they could get themselves deeply in the shît if they don't do everything they can to ensure you are VERY happy.
 
I have checked the Brake fluid and it was low (it was overfilled when I got it) when I put pressure on the brakes a bit squirts out of the t piece over the rear diff. the light has gone out now I have topped it up.
So does that also solve you diff oil leak problem???
 
So does that also solve you diff oil leak problem???

Well it seems the oil leak issue is sorted however I think it may have revealed a major underlying issue, that is the fact that my new car may be a bag of **** with a pushed through MOT. I just looked on MOT Information - Introduction and saw that it failed first time around on lots of things and then passed through the same day. this like R/O/S suspension mount completely corroded, and that was passed through a little while later, this is on top of the other 10 failures passed the same day!!!

anyway

my neighbour is an MOT tester and he will take it to VOSA tomorrow, there is a chance it could get seized so I have to be prepared for that. If they do seize it for evidence then I will have to fight for a refund somehow. I think I am screwed whatever happens once VOSA and TS are involved. I need a car so I could ask for a quick resolution by asking the dealer for a refund and not take it any further, the problem with this is I am not sure i can close a case once opened with VOSA the other is the fact that I was driving my pregnant wife in a car that could have killed us. I don't think that I can let someone off the hook to do it to another family.

what an arsehole

By the way thank you all for your help, if I do get a refund then I will get another disco as I have really enjoyed the two days I have had mine (maybe I will get my next one from the classifieds on this forum)
at least I know what to look out for now!!
 
If they seize your car for evidence that doesn't alter the dealer's liability. You need your money back and you want it now! Definitely worth talking to trading standards people. If the car is so unroadworthy that you can't use it you may have grounds for suing the dealer for a hire car until you get your money back. Also have a close look at your AA warranty. The AA isn't what it was, but even now they won't be too happy giving out a warranty on an unroadworthy car.
 
It is arena car centre in Preston the garage is The Anchor service centre next door to the dealer.

NO surprise there then. Though I believe some one was postulating on this very forum, That dodgy MOT's don't exsist anymore:confused: You can obviously prove he doesn't know squat!!.


As has been said TS will advise you on ways to recover all your costs. I'd speak to a brief and see what else you can do.
 
Back
Top