Series 2 A little advice on parts please?

Hey all,

2 things!

1)
This weekend coming i'm removing the fuel tank to find and seal a leak in a seam that i'm sure is there, could anyone reccomend me a sealant? I'm aiming to reseal it as it's still the original military underseat tank and a new one is a tad pricey.

2)
I was advised when i got my series 2a that the water pump needed replacing as it was on its last legs.
Could anybody reccomend a whole unit for a decent price/not rubbish? Where to get it and such. I'm looking at paddocks and craddocks but it's a little overwhelming for a mechanics beginner.

The landy is a 1968 ex-mod 2.25L petrol. I saw that there was a military specific waterpump but is that relevant? Or would that be more for the lightweights etc etc, yet mine has the military fuel tank so i thought that was worth mentioning, just in case. Not urgent, i can do the water pump the weekend after but i would just like to ask so that i can order parts and hopefully have it by this weekend to do it all in one go.

Cheers all, if i'm missing any crucial info please let me know, i'm currently at work so i may be a little slow too.

many thanks!

If its military, I take it the filler cap is under the seat as well. Just mentioning it as mine had a wet patch and it turned out to be the rubber filler neck. I could only recommend welding it if it is a seam.

Get hold of the fan and wiggle it. The only thing to go will be the bearings and if it aint wiggling its fine. If it is wiggling around I think its worth getting the full cover and pump as a single unit. Lifes too short to try and make good. I got a paddocks one and after two years and about 6000 miles its already wiggling a bit. I dare say it was a Britpart one so no surprises there. They sell them in two flavours dependent on the amount of bolts that hold it on. Generally the more you spend the better the part.

Bobsticle said:

If its military, I take it the filler cap is under the seat as well. Just mentioning it as mine had a wet patch and it turned out to be the rubber filler neck. I could only recommend welding it if it is a seam.

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Yup it's an underseat.


I thought it could be a hose or something but when i left it there, i got a text saying that fuel was running out in the rain. Strange since it didn't leak a single bit for the first 4 months, unless it was because i had filled the tank higher for the drive over, hence why i think it's a seam. There's a wet look to the bottom of the tank but it's dry to the touch with no further dripping. I've never welded anything and i'm not sure i have any welding equipment anywhere. I know a few mechanics that have said they've used strong sealing epoxy on fuel tanks with good results. I've left the bolts on it covered in WD40 to try and loosen them up. The aim is to put some fuel in, see if it leaks and where from, drain it, remove the tank, let the fumes clear and then seal it. Looking at it i'm guessing that the tank drops out from the bottom? Or is this going

Bobsticle said:

Get hold of the fan and wiggle it. The only thing to go will be the bearings and if it aint wiggling its fine. If it is wiggling around I think its worth getting the full cover and pump as a single unit. Lifes too short to try and make good. I got a paddocks one and after two years and about 6000 miles its already wiggling a bit. I dare say it was a Britpart one so no surprises there. They sell them in two flavours dependent on the amount of bolts that hold it on. Generally the more you spend the better the part.

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I am not currently near it, she's on my at a family members as i had to leave her there whilst i was in the states and so i could do some work on it later on. So i can't test the wiggle or see how many bolts hold it on until this weekend sadly. I'm just going on what i was advised by the previous owner. Have you links to the full cover/pump?

Cheers.

I would only soft or silver solder the tank as its hard to tell how thick it is and how far the crak runs until you start getting it hot. You can make a copper patch and sweat it on with soft solder. The safe was is to clean it a lot then fill it with water leaving an inch or so to enable you to get some heat on, but its hard to avoid distortion. You can fill it with inert gas but this is for the pros. I have the same problem and keep one tank under 3/4 full but in 4 years the leak is still very small. The largest leaks was the seal on the drain plugs. There is some fuel tank sealer avaible but the problem is getting everything clean enough, by then you may as well solder a patch on. I do have to eat my words a bit on this as I soldered a split in the rear diff cover and when it leaked again because of a bit I'd missed I put plastic metal on at is been fine 2 years on. The reason I don't like sealer on tanks is that they flex and vibrate a lot.

This is the full unit



This is the repair kit



This has more bolt holes

Bobsticle said:

This is the full unit

This is the repair kit

This has more bolt holes

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okay great thanks.

rob1miles said:

The reason I don't like sealer on tanks is that they flex and vibrate a lot.

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Yeah i can see that being an issue, just welding is so far beyond me. I'm hoping it's a small crack that i can patch up. I'll see if there's a welding kit somewhere but just seems a little out of my scope.

Its a pro job repairing a tank. You might get a few weeks/months out of epoxy putty but I doubt with the combination of petrol and vibration its going to be a long term fix.

I just looked at the new ones very expensive

Cheapest I found was this..............

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15782/552176-MILITARY-UNDERSEAT-FUEL-TANK-ASSEMBLY.html

Bobsticle said:

Its a pro job repairing a tank. You might get a few weeks/months out of epoxy putty but I doubt with the combination of petrol and vibration its going to be a long term fix.

I just looked at the new ones very expensive

Cheapest I found was this..............

http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/15782/552176-MILITARY-UNDERSEAT-FUEL-TANK-ASSEMBLY.html

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Yeah, hence my apprehension of getting a new one. It's over twice the price of a normal one annoyingly.

Well thanks for the advice, i think i'll work out where the crack is and then see how bad it is, try it out with an epoxy putty and see how the results are. I can't imagine that having it done by a pro would be much cheaper than a new one anyway.

id guess a new tank is the best option

jamesmartin said:

id guess a new tank is the best option

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Seems that way, i'll try a putty first. I really don't want to do that unless i have to. I didn't even realise it was leaking, for the first few months i had it there were no signs of a leak, just when i got it to my families they mentioned the smell of petrol and there being some on the ground.

Trench Rat said:

Seems that way, i'll try a putty first. I really don't want to do that unless i have to. I didn't even realise it was leaking, for the first few months i had it there were no signs of a leak, just when i got it to my families they mentioned the smell of petrol and there being some on the ground.

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if you had a crack fair enough but they tend to rot and go porous difficult to fix

jamesmartin said:

if you had a crack fair enough but they tend to rot and go porous difficult to fix

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Good point. That's the point of the exercise on the coming saturday, going to take out the tank and fill it to see where it comes from. I have a feeling it's a crack on a seam. Wouldn't the porous leaks be more of a risk at the bottom of the tank where the petrol sits more? I had never had her above just over a quarter and never got any leaks until i did the trip to my families, at which point i put another 4 or 5 gallons in which might explain why there was a leak, implying it's higher up on the tank. I've got a wet look on the bottom of the tank but it's very dry.

Anyway, could anybody advise me on removing the tank? Is it a case of remove the connections and 4 bolts, then it drops out of the bottom or is it a case of removing the seatbox and lifting it from the top?

cheers.

Trench Rat said:

Good point. That's the point of the exercise on the coming saturday, going to take out the tank and fill it to see where it comes from. I have a feeling it's a crack on a seam. Wouldn't the porous leaks be more of a risk at the bottom of the tank where the petrol sits more? I had never had her above just over a quarter and never got any leaks until i did the trip to my families, at which point i put another 4 or 5 gallons in which might explain why there was a leak, implying it's higher up on the tank. I've got a wet look on the bottom of the tank but it's very dry.

Anyway, could anybody advise me on removing the tank? Is it a case of remove the connections and 4 bolts, then it drops out of the bottom or is it a case of removing the seatbox and lifting it from the top?

cheers.

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must come out underneath as it bolts under the outriggers. many old radiator repairer places will take on fuel tank repairs and do a good job at a reasonable price. military engines normally use the pump with extra bolt hole.

minecab said:

must come out underneath as it bolts under the outriggers. many old radiator repairer places will take on fuel tank repairs and do a good job at a reasonable price. military engines normally use the pump with extra bolt hole.

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Okay thanks, that's an alternative, or even just a local fabricator if i can find one i guess?

There is a classic car resin for fuel tanks. Mix,pour in and turn tank to line it. Worked in S1 tank for the past 4years.
I do have a(free) stainless military tank in garden but vents/leaks if you fill it right up(took out series 1 under seat) based near swindon Wiltshire.

I took the leaking military tanks out of my 109 FFR and replaced them with the much cheaper standard civvy tanks. The thing is that it is very likely that a repair, if possible at all, (depends on where it is coming from), will prove to be temporary. It is likely that it is coming from behind the under-guard. The tank is fitted with a steel guard welded to the bottom of the tank proper. This forms a steel sandwich which encourages rust as it is not painted behind it.
My advice: Buy a new tank, turn it upside down an shove a hot air blower in through the sender unit hole. When the tank gets nice and warm, pour Waxoyl around the drain plug. The heat will pull the waxoyl in under the guard and help to preserve the bare steel from rust. Don't let it get too hot, (fire risk). I wish I'd thought of this when I fitted my tanks...

I was in this position 25 years ago with an old classic car. I spent 2 nervous days cleaning and brazing a tank trying to find every pin hole. In the end I went and bought a new one for £205 (in 1980) sometimes there's no option. If you clean it up and there's a defined carck its worth a go but if its thin its a lost cause. £180 isn't a bad price.

Thanks all. Though some very conflicting advice
I’m going to take it out and check it over. Then I can decide if it’s going to be a replacement or not.

Fuel gauge was reading empty yet she was firing up. Went to drain the tank and about 8 litres came out so definitely not empty. So that’s the fuel gauge faulty haha. Took her for a short drive to see if fuel came out under pressure and it doesn’t. I just filled a container with fuel so I’m going to add that. See if it starts leaking. It may be that I over filled the tank in the first place? That’s where the “leak” came from. Maybe I misjudged how full it was due to the faulty gauge.

So here’s to hoping it’s not actually leaking. Cheers for advice anyway guys!

Hicap phill said:

There is a classic car resin for fuel tanks. Mix,pour in and turn tank to line it. Worked in S1 tank for the past 4years.
I do have a(free) stainless military tank in garden but vents/leaks if you fill it right up(took out series 1 under seat) based near swindon Wiltshire.

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Thanks for the offer, not feasible though, bit of a distance
I’m just going to fill her up a little more. See what happens

Hey guys,

I'm just getting around to ordering the water pump. I checked and it was a 9 stud unit. I don't mind it being paddocks britpart, if it's faulty again in a few years, i'll change it again, more practice for me.

Anyway, just to confirm, http://www.paddockspares.com/stc3758-water-pump-s11a-111-9-stud.html that's correct? Also is paddocks reliable?
Does it matter if petrol or diesel on the 2.25?

cheers