A-Frame ball joint renewal

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S

stingrey

New Member
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82
Is it possible to change the A-frame ball joint without removing the arms and boge self levelling unit. Think it could be hard work to remove everything and difficult to reassemble on completion.:confused:
 
I'd be interested in the answer to this as well.

Recenly, I have had to do the same job, and after an awful lot of banging, shouting, umming and ahhing, I just removed the self levelling unit whole, and never refitted it.

I couldnt see any way of removing the self levelling unit, and it is under a fair bit of pressure too..
 
Is it possible to change the A-frame ball joint without removing the arms and boge self levelling unit. Think it could be hard work to remove everything and difficult to reassemble on completion.:confused:


The least You need to do is remove the 2 bolts that are connected to the A-frame ball joint (fulcrum) bracket, then either get it pressed out, or persuade it out by other means:D

Bemmy
 
I just got a brand new bearmach adjustable ball joint off ebay for 15 quid delivered from md4x4.
It is best to remove the housing from the arms, as it usually needs to be pressed out. Beware though, the bolts that hold the housing to the arms are usually badly rusted, and have been known to shear off. If it's quite an old vehicle, then get new bolts and nuts, and one of the ball joints with housing, saves a shed load of time and anglo saxon phrases
 
quattro6999 said:
I just got a brand new bearmach adjustable ball joint off ebay for 15 quid delivered from md4x4.
It is best to remove the housing from the arms, as it usually needs to be pressed out. Beware though, the bolts that hold the housing to the arms are usually badly rusted, and have been known to shear off. If it's quite an old vehicle, then get new bolts and nuts, and one of the ball joints with housing, saves a shed load of time and anglo saxon phrases
Click to expand...
Got one of these A frame to housing bolts out clean, the other is being a b....rd any suggestions ? Have used WD40 soak and a good old belt , but access difficult. Have had breaker bar on it ..... No move and frightened it will shear , will try heat today, any other suggestions ? Is it worth changing the bushes at the other ends of the A Frame ? They also look like ba...rds to remove ... .?
 
Splashman237 said:
Got one of these A frame to housing bolts out clean, the other is being a b....rd any suggestions ? Have used WD40 soak and a good old belt , but access difficult. Have had breaker bar on it ..... No move and frightened it will shear , will try heat today, any other suggestions ? Is it worth changing the bushes at the other ends of the A Frame ? They also look like ba...rds to remove ... .?
Click to expand...


If it does shear then you may be able to drift the remaining bit out with a punch (although you will need to use something as a reaction block). Its normally the bolt shank corroding to the inner of the casting that causes the issue. If the bolt is that bad its best to fit new hardware anyway.
 
Splashman237 said:
Got one of these A frame to housing bolts out clean, the other is being a b....rd any suggestions ? Have used WD40 soak and a good old belt , but access difficult. Have had breaker bar on it ..... No move and frightened it will shear , will try heat today, any other suggestions ? Is it worth changing the bushes at the other ends of the A Frame ? They also look like ba...rds to remove ... .?
Click to expand...

Try putting the first one back in and doing it up tight and see if that helps, as sometimes releasing one fastener can make an assembly "grip" another due to flex etc
 
Got mine to do soon but looking at the bolts that hold the fulcrum to the A frame they look like they will be solid and may snap so to save me the trouble i mite try and buy a s/h A frame and re-furbish it with new extra wide ball joint, bolts and bushes and just swap the A frames over, i know a couple of landy breakers that i can try hopefully they will have one :)
 
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