90 rear crossmember ?

Hello,
I have just purchased my first 'Landy', it is a 1984 90, the rear crossmember is useless and needs replacing, is this a diy job ? i.e. can you do it without needing to strip down the rear of the landy.

Hi there eddie1a, i an also a bit new to Land Rover ownership and own a disco soi haven't had this problem, but i know of people who have replaced there own chasis sections etc before.
From what i can gather it isn't the most simple of jobs, but with the right equipment it was possible.
When you say diy, do you mean that you have the equipment and reasonable engineering know how???

Hello eddie1a you could try and send a private messgae to lr4ever he seem's to have some knowledge on LR's . But I Think you'll need to cut/grind off the old x/member then weld on the new one " I THINK "

Wilson

Eddie
You really need to take the body off in order to cut through the end of the chassis and in order to get the top of the new X-member welded into place. I did it on a IIA a few years ago. Having bought the rear X-member I was all ready to roll, but when I took the body off the chassis collapsed in the middle and I ended up fitting a new half chassis.
Taking the body off isn't too difficult though you'll almost certainly need a grinder for some fastenings. It's also quite a good move as it will give you an opportunity to clean up all the bits you can't otherwise get at. Its amazing how much muck accumulates in the hidden nooks and crannies and the feeling that you've got a clean and well protected chassis under you is great.
Enjoy your project - its well worthwhile.

Dave

Dirty Land Rovers !!!....tut..tut..tut, whatever do you mean Dave.

Not dirty - just VERY mucky! In this case it was a 30 year accumulation of sand, grit and oil. I scraped pounds of the stuff off from the normally hidden nooks and crannies. The good thing about the older landies is that the oil they tend to fling about helps protect surfaces, though the drips don't do a lot for your driveway.

Had a swb TD 'Cruiser' too for a couple of years. It could knock spots off any production LR as far as regards speed on road and comfort. Almost, but not quite as good off road and certainly not as easy or cheap to maintain.

My wife who has absolutely NO, NIL, ZILCH interest in motor vehicles ( apart from 'how much is it costing and what colour is it ?') loved both of them. I think it was the high seating position and the idea she was surrounded by girders!

Just about to take delivery of a LR Defender 90 TD, 1988 vintage with 134k miles on the clock. Joins the Jeep Cherokee Orvis (oops - sorry, maybe a rude word here !)

Dave

Oh Dave !!! now you really did it ! It's well known that Landy owners don't care too much for Jap 4x4s, and Jap owners have the occasional giggle at Landys, but if there is one thing we all agree on ...............................................WE ALL HATE JEEPS ! Oh ! and before all you Heep owners get on my case, I just moved to the Central Region of the Gobie Dessert. He..He..He...!
Cruisermik.

I did this job to my 90 last year. I had the back body off as I was doing a rebuild but I believe it can be done with the body in place. There are two types of replacement crossmember available, a plain one and one with chassis extensions which are designed to fit over the ends of the chassis. I chose the latter as the old crossmember was impossible to grind off accurately. There are several tough points - grinding the old one off, being careful not to cut through or burn the wiring loom, which passes through the offside chassis leg, lining up the new crossmember and finally, welding the new one on. It may be easier to try and do the job with the body in place, as it gives reference points as to where to fit the new one - you can bolt it on using the bolts below the rear door. It's not an easy job for a DIY novice. Also consider who is going to do the welding..? I bought a MIG welder and taught myself how to weld as there was no-one else as i live in the sticks. Can't really take the vehicle to a welder with the back half missing, unless you have a mate with a trailer. There's an article in an old mag I have with a step-by-step picture guide. I'll try and find it and you may be able to geta back copy. (Another) Eddie

Eddie - did you find that article? I'm going to do this myself also.

Also has anyone experience of doing a 110 CSW without remocing the body. I can imagine body removal is not as trivial as a 90 cab or softtop!

I have got to get this done, but I'm not doing it myself, I'm getting a land rover specialist to do it, they apparently have to take the underside of the land rover up to the middle area of the back Wheel.
Apparently its a good days work, so its going to cost me a fortune, but i haven't got the knowledge or the tools to do it myself.

But at least my mate works for them so i get a bit of discount, and can guarantee it will be a top class job!!

Scott.

Did one last week for the MOT. I am over 60 years old and did it on my own.so it is not impossible only awkward You do not need to remove the back body. Get the chassis member with extensions It will be easier to line up. Remove wiring back to the rubber bung in the chassis. remove back silencer box and towing gear if fitted. Remove 10 bolts 13mm along the back, outer 4 have nuts . Use the centre as a guide when you rebuild you might have to drill and fiddle to make them fit . You will see that your new rear member opens for the last six inches so it fits over the cut chasis. to give extra strength to the job you should drill 4 large holes in these to weld when on the chassis.. The estate model has some extra nuts and bolts 17mm that need to be removed, then you are ready to cut the chassis I cant remember exatly what the cutting measurements were. But remember to measure twice and cut once, as this one of the hardest bits to put right if you make a mistake. Be sure to disconnect the battery you are going to weld. Gravity takes over when the chassis cutting is done . lifting the new member in on your own is a pig of a job get some help if you can . put the 2 bolts into the centre of the back as your guide jack up the new back until the 2 small fittings touch the floor Thread you wiring back into place weld every thing replace rest of back nuts paint everything well then waxol it . Replace towing gear and silencer Take for test run and feel proud of yourself. |For a beginner on a 1-10 scale of difficulty its a good 8. good luck and allow a full weekend to do it. Chris

Does not sound as bad as i thought...
Apologise for butting in, but have been planning to replace mine for a while, have been reading this thread with interest. I ordered the rear x member today, ready to fit at easter.

Whats the best stuff to use to paint over the welded area, hammerite?
I have done welding before, mostly arc welding on ships, where the steel is a bit thicker. What are the best rods to use? I have heaps of 6013 2mm arc welding rods, will these do?

Also, would it be sensible to drain the fuel tank, and to disconnect the battery and alternator to protect the electrics?

Thanks for the reply bonny.
Unfortunatley i already bought the rear member without extensions as the chassis itself was very sound. I didnt consider that it was easier with extensions.
Can this still be done without removing the body do you think?
Also i could do with some pics or diagrams, as the cut for this one is no doubt more complcated than the extension version...

Tottle the white ninty. I used a mig with 8mm wire not a stick welder. Smooth hammerite . or good chassis paint. HoSS Just wait until to you try and cut it out its got to be straight. and weld the top . In my life I must have done 20 or more from series one on using new and second hand believe me the extensions are the easiest well worth the extra few quid even at this stage I would try to get it changed . IT might be possible to get a motor grinder with a 12 in blade and cut the chassis dead tight to the back keeping it straight might be another matter. LIike to hear how you get on in due course Chris

if you are an experienced welder then 2.5mm rods will be ok. but i still think its much better to beg borrow or steal a mig welder. so much easier.
2 man job really. at least the lifting and the positioning part.

ive always used hammerite paint.

I used a mig with 8mm wire not a stick welder.

Click to expand...

'Kinarseholes that must be one hell of a machine! Is it three phase?

Do you feed it by running your winch in reverse?

GRUNT said:

'Kinarseholes that must be one hell of a machine! Is it three phase?

Click to expand...

got be three phase singal phase wont give you the amps you would need for 8mm

sorry should read 0.8mm. It is only single phase . I find that 0.6mm tends to stick and not run freely Yes 8mm would take quite a machine . Chris.

I also intend to change the rear crossmember myself after easter, I've already got the new one with the extensions ready, just one question? when the old member has been cut off, does the rear of the body need propping up first? or did I read it correctly, in that you slide the new crossmember onto the chassis stubs and jack it up until everything lines up before starting to weld it together?

Once that's done, I also have both front outriggers to do! doh!