easiest method is leave the crossmember in under the gearbox remove the rear propshaft disconnect the electrics from the gearbox ie: reverse light switch then undoo the engine from the gearbox and the gearbox from the chassis (leaving the crossmember in ) the gearbox should slide back enough to get in and change the clutch
top tips
remove the clutch slave cylinder and wrap it with duct tale to ensure the pushrod desnt come out ( its a cnut to get the seals back in without them leaking ) this will save a lot of time and effort bleeding the bugger back up aswell
also watch out for the bellhouseing bolts on the top side of the engine theyre gits to get at use a wabbler behind the socket and roughly 18" to 2 foot of extension bars to get into them its a bit of a fiddly process but once your on them theyre easy
above all if in doubt put the kettle on calm down and then carry on
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Do you still need to remove the gearbox tunnel from inside to allow the gear lever assembly to move back with the gearbox? Trying to picture it
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