89 rrc wont run help please

hi guys hopefully someone can help me we ha va 89 rrc v8 efi that till recently was running fine we went shooting one day all fine then on the way home she coughed and splutterd then just stoped the aa came and took me home and suggested the injecter earth i had an auto electricion come and have a look he had it kind of running with a screw driver and a set of jumpleads and suggested cleaning the earths and adding new ones wich i did i also changed the starter as he managed to make it smoke still no joy so he suggested the ecu which has been checked and showing no faults some one said a fuel pressure regulator is a common fault on these so ichanged that now it rill run while turning over and keep running if key held in strart position the minute i let go it stops so some one said maybe the ignition feed on the coil wich is a new one he said run a wire from the battery to the coil but still no joy does any body have any clues as im totally baffled now and rapidly running out of confidence with the electricion any help would be great cheers

there a fuel relay under seat that should come on for 4 secs when ign on got purple white wire to it ,also on coil there is wire from ecu that lets ecu know ngines turning and to switch efi and fuel relay on

jamesmartin said:

there a fuel relay under seat that should come on for 4 secs when ign on got purple white wire to it ,also on coil there is wire from ecu that lets ecu know ngines turning and to switch efi and fuel relay on

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James - I think that is for the 3.9 hotwire system, whereas judging by the year this would be a 3.5 with flapper MAF, which has a different system.

On the flapper, when the engine is turning and drawing in air the movement of the flap completes the circuit to the fuel pump relay, so that the fuel pump is only activated when the engine is being turned over on the starter or is running.

So - back to basics.............

If it is a flapper - does the fuel pump run when the ignition is on and the flap pushed open, and are the plugs getting wet?

Is there a spark?

Pete

hi yaeh its got a spark a nice blue one and theres fuel when you take off the fuel pipe everybody gets a bit lol so from that i assume the pumps working

oh and the plugs get wet ive cleaned them more times than i can remember

yeah your right didnt read age

Coolant Temperature Sensor gone open circuit? There are two sensors by the front right of the plenum with brown and yellow caps. It's the one behind with the yellow cap that you need to get to. You can get a multimeter on it by just removing the plug, to test whether there is the correct resistance. It should be:-

• 
  0 deg C 5700 - 5900 ohm

• 
  20 deg C 2400 - 2600 ohm

I won't give temperatures outside that range for the time being as it's not going to be relevant.

If it's open circuit then it won't run, but I am not sure how that would fit with the plugs getting wet (therefore fuel getting through) and there being a spark (therefore ignition working).

I am struggling to think of anything else at the moment.

Pete

On the 3.5 I have known the timing gears to slip due a nylon tooth breaking off the cam sproket. Try loosing the distributor and turning it slowly whilst someone else cranks the engine and see if there is any improvement, i.e. running but lumpy as opposed to not running at all

thanks for the help guys a mates just been over and had a look hes pointing at the air flow meter he took the top off and got proddin with the multi meter he said its got power going in but nothing elseon the curcuit board he recons its firing up when you hold the key in startt cos the cold startvalve is putting fuel in but wont run when let go cos of the afm ill try and sauce one and see what happens ill keep you posted

got a new air flow meter today still no joy i got from a lr specialist he said if it dont work check the dizzy as theres a lot ofplay in the shaft apparently there prone to the rotor arm seizing on and when you pull it off you can pop off the bob wieghts he also sid use genuine rotor arm i must admi i did get a bit happy with the pry bar trying to get off the rotor arm so maybe ive pulled off the waeights just waiting for a dizzy now

strip the dizzy and reassemble it , it's not that bad a job . mark the dizzy possition BEFORE you loosen the retaining nut . this will drive you nuts to retime if you don't set engine aswell as marking dizzy position , made that mistake years ago and never forgot it , genuine parts on a v8 always work best , in my opinion . happy days

when you said it runs if you hold the key in start position, did you mean it turns over on the starter, or its acftually firing and running?
If the latter, surely there can't be a problem with the dizzy. It must be that fuel or spark is ceasing when you release the key. No?

i think you might have hit the button

hi guys i thought the same so i tried hot wiring it still no joy ive found a really helpfull small landrover garage highwell landrovers if any bodys interested hes gonna have a look i just keep spending money on bit with no joy its going over monday hopefully luckily its a joint car for shooting in and as ive just bought my self a rather abused 200 disco i think ill let my mate take over i told him to get a diesel lol

if it's running while cranking would suggest checking feed from coil -ve to ecu

Hi there hangover.. Sounds like not a good electrician? I think you should look at the ignition relay so that when you release the key it holds in to maintain the
power to the coil and the ignition system?
Try taking a simular relay from somewhere else on the car and check part number first then plug it in...

fixed it well sort of ive had dave at highwell lookin at it and he discovered that some nesbit had melted part of the loom while doing some welding and is shortin out so rather than trying to rewire it all we decided to bin the fuel injection and chuck on some carbs fond some on fleabay got some k&ns cheap and a filter king to bring down the fuel pressure so hopefully when hes got some time shell all be running again yay