4WD question

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Bryguitar

Member
Posts
38
Location
North East
I have a 3.5 perkins engine in my series 3 has broke a few rear halfshafts but was told if i run in 4wd will be easier on the shafts as torque is split to front and rear so thats what ive been doing and seems to have done the trick ( touch wood).

question is, is it ok to run in high range 4wd all the time ?
apart from the tyre wear will it be ok.
 
If you bear in mind that later models that run permanent 4wd have cv joints in the front axle and a centre diff in the transfer box, neither of which are present in a series 3, then you're probably looking at no, it's not ok. But then it's your landy and you can do whatever you want.
 
Not reccomended on the road, you'll probably knacker even more half shafts or the box, as mentioned later models have cv's on the ends of the front axle and more important in the 'box.
 
Ok thanks for help, ill run it in 2wd as i used to before.

hopefully havent done any damage to the box :( but with it being icy and snow recently i may have been ok.

How can you tell if you have damaged the box?

also are freewheeling hubs for just fuel saving as mine dosent have them but my friends landrover does?
 
Last edited:
Running in 4wd on a hard surface would not put the main gearbox or much of the transfer box under any extra strain, only the shafts and dog clutch connecting the front output flange to the rear output flange. I've never heard of those breaking. It will put a strain on all your halshafts, differentials and universal joints though so it's not a good idea. The reason why your transmission will be wound up by running it in 4wd on the road is that when you go around corners the rear wheels take a different path to the front wheels - the front wheels travel further. A centre differential, as in later Land-Rovers, will compensate for this.
 
If you've got an 88" then it might be worth considering converting to a stronger Salisbury rear axle as found on 109" SIII Land-Rovers. It is a bit of a fiddle fitting them though - it's not a simple bolt on conversion.
 
Fenbys right, the ackerman angle makes the front and rear wheels follow a diffo path therefore a diffo speed, the engine will drive the easiest pair (Ithink), so the strain is on the transfer box onward towards the wheels.
The reason for my post however is just to point out, if you go for salisburys watch out for the diff ratio's, you need the same ratio as the front, so either make sure the one you get is the same as yer existing front, or get the rear axle and the front diff off the donor vehicle.
My Penny's worth.
 
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