4.6 engine removal

Hi all, just about to pull out the short block from my rangie for rebuild. Anyone got any hints and tips for taking out the engine and putting back?

Does the radiator have to come out?

Is the access plate under the bell housing to remove the torque converter bolts? Not pulled an auto out before.

Heads are off now, is it easier to put the heads back on when the block is in the bay? Or put them on before I put it back. I believe the bell housing bolts are a pig.

Help much appreciated.

Cheers

is easier to strip down engine in vehicle removing heads if possible and rebuild new in place if possible ,its safer with rad out .2 x bolts hold it at bottom can be trickey as nuts are held in plastic retainers in rad , bolts are made harder to get at by sump but possible ,when refitting engine measure depth t/c sits from bell housing face is greater by a 1mm or 2 than drive plate face sits from rear of engine face so that pump isnt damaged on fitting

Undo the engine mounts, lift the motor with a hoist or on a jack, pop the mounts out and drop the engine back down to get easier access to the bell housing bolts at the top of the engine.

Deffo remove the rad'. Be very careful not to twist it, even slightly as it will leak when you put it back.

Should be nice and simple now the heads are off

Cheers for the replies, getting as many pointers as possible. Took me a while last night to get the viscous fan off the water pump, which now feels a little like the bearings are going. Looking at the manual the torque converter is attached to the engine by 8 bolts, and it also says make sure the t/c stays with the autobox when splitting? Not bolted to gearbox? Could be interesting.

Got all the lower connections to take off tonight and the manifold to cat nuts tonight, then its just the engine mountings and bell housing bolts, should be good to go then. Not forgetting to chock the autobox.

The bolts to the converter are awkward to get at and should be threadlocked on. I removed the engine sump so I could get a socket on nice and square to break them.

Good luck with the rebuild, I recently did mine bare block and stripped heads upwards, found it a pleasure to work on.....make sure you read the workshop manual as there are a few potential hicups to be avoided.

Got the 4.0/4.6 manual of the net and digested most of the info. Its getting a complete rebuild, It has numerous oil weaps and was pressurising the coolant. Block/liner problem.

I think somebody has tried to get the engine out before, or been out, because there was a enigne/bell housing bolt missing and one was loose.

I think by the time I have finished it will have had more money spent on it than I paid for it. Never get it back, as expected.

Looking forward to getting all the bits apart, Well surprized how little wear there is on the cam for 120k motor. Tappets look like they have been wearing nice and evenly too.

I have been going to work on the Bandit for a week or so now, not liking the weather, especially the cold mornings. Plus I think the bandit does even worse mpg than the rangie does on gas in this weather. Could be my twitchy wrist!

Right, Last night removed all the loom connections and plugs, Disconnected the oil cooler, undid the bell housing bolts that where actually still there (I think the gearbox has been out). Took the half moon out between the gearbox and sump. That was awkward. I think it will be safer if I remove the sump, as many people have done to get out the bolt holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

It is the inner ring of bolts about 4 of them? The outer ring which has about 12 in looks to just hold a ring on the outside of the flywheel.

Will I have to mark these up so they go back exactly the same? There seems to be a gap in the ring of teeth on the engine side of the flywheel. I wouldn't have throught I needed to but you never know. I would have thought the flywheel position in relation to the crank was the important bit.

Cant wait for it to be finished now, will I have a v8 with no leaks? not for long I bet.

Cheers for the help.

don't think the sump come's off easily with engine in , unless you have air suspension up at high setting . You will have issues removing the engine with aircon rad in situ .
good luck with it though , enjoy the experiance !

Just got it out. Managed to get the bolts out the torque converter without taking the sump off. It was pretty stuck to the bell housing, had to jump on the motor with an axle stand under the bell housing to break it. Wiggled it off after that.

Didn't take the radiator off, it was a real tight squeeze. It would have been even harder to get out with the heads on. So its going back with them off too.

Time for a beer.

Cheers