300TDi still overheats even though all new

Right before I take it out into a field and burn it could someone possibly have any other ideas to this?

Ove rthe last month or two I have replaced:

Head gasket, head bolts, all coolant hoses, ejector pump, P and water pump gasket and also the core plugs.

Very sslowly been filled and bled but after a mere 5 minutes after getting upto temprature she still loses all heat from the blowers and starts to overheat/spew water from the expansion tank.

I have searched on here and I have tried everything I have found including the 300 ways to bleed one of these engines lol!

I'm thinking I might have to buy a new head and maybe a radiator (although mine is very rust free and shows no signs of leeks) but I reckon a second hand engine could be got for less.

Jon

did you have the head skimmed and crack tested

is it possible engine block dented or uneven bcoz of previous warp and all..im having same problem 2..??

Ok once bin on a long run switch off and see if you can find cold areas on the rad this indicates blockage, it usually start bottom up from right to left I think the Flow is (be careful you don't burn your self) not to say it ain't blocked in the middle or top of the rad.
This will reduce flow and cause over heat! Coolant will come out with no crappy in some times due to scale buildup in the veines of the rad.

If it is the rad use deionised water and coolant as will stop that issue once you have flushed/replaced the rad.

Now engine is altogether get a leak test done on the engine as your head or block could be cracked on one of the 4 cylinders it may be something as simple as head gasket not seated right for some reason when rebuilt.

Try rad 1st as Wong cost nowt to test. also remove the stat from housing as I have had a new one of them be faulty before Hope this helps

just a simple thing to try, check the perge valve, the little round black plastic thing coming from the expansion tank, isnt blocked up, there are two pipes coming from it, one from the rad, and one from the thermostat housing, they can get full off crud and stop water flow

shaun

spartan said:

just a simple thing to try, check the perge valve, the little round black plastic thing coming from the expansion tank, isnt blocked up, there are two pipes coming from it, one from the rad, and one from the thermostat housing, they can get full off crud and stop water flow

shaun

Click to expand...

I have replaced that fella, the one that came off was clear too.

disco dude said:

Ok once bin on a long run switch off and see if you can find cold areas on the rad this indicates blockage, it usually start bottom up from right to left I think the Flow is (be careful you don't burn your self) not to say it ain't blocked in the middle or top of the rad.
This will reduce flow and cause over heat! Coolant will come out with no crappy in some times due to scale buildup in the veines of the rad.

If it is the rad use deionised water and coolant as will stop that issue once you have flushed/replaced the rad.

Now engine is altogether get a leak test done on the engine as your head or block could be cracked on one of the 4 cylinders it may be something as simple as head gasket not seated right for some reason when rebuilt.

Try rad 1st as Wong cost nowt to test. also remove the stat from housing as I have had a new one of them be faulty before Hope this helps

Click to expand...

I see where your coming from fella but I can't get 1/2 mile away before the needle starts going up and the blowers go cold.

I'll let her tick over and give her a little run round the yard, maybe that might be enough to check the rad.

niceguyz said:

is it possible engine block dented or uneven bcoz of previous warp and all..im having same problem 2..??

Click to expand...

I've never seen it happen but that doesn't rule it out matey, will inspect if I have to split the head off.

Sean said:

did you have the head skimmed and crack tested

Click to expand...

Nope, I did check the head though and it had very small if any imperfections in the surface.


If checking the rad out doesn't help I will be splitting the head off again and getting it skimmed/tested. I have heard that once skimmed they tend not to run as well?

Many thanks for the replies,

Jon

Yogi Bear said:

I have heard that once skimmed they tend not to run as well?

Click to expand...

rubbish, and you'll not spot not issues with a head unless it's a bigun

regarding the bleeding off a 300tdi, i have pulled my hair out trying to get the air out of them, same probs as yourself air trapped in the heater matrix, cold heater, and then the head getting excessivly hot,

the best way i found to get the air out, was using a small 12 volt submersable pump from a caravan shop, put the motor in a bucket of water, remove the thermostate housing plug, push the pipe from the pump motor in, then remove the rubber pipe from the steel pipe that runs along the head, remember to put a bung in the rubber pipe to stop you losing all the water from the rad, then fit a piece off pipe to the steel pipe that goes back to the water bucket, connect up and watch the air bubbles come out off the heater matrix into the bucket. then remove your pump ect and replace hoses plugs ect, worked eveytime for me, and the beauty off it is you dont keep wasting expensive coolent it just keeps pumping it around

i have made various fittings on the lathe now to fit the pipes to the housings ect, but originally i codged up the pipes up with tape so they where a tight fit in the housings, very heath robinson, but it worked for me, the only thing you will do is empty the expansion box as it slowly fills it up, but you can use the pump for that to

you could also fit the pump pipe to the rad housing plug and it would do the same thing,

hope this helps

shaun

this can be a right pain i had similar issues with large jap engines getting airlocked like this esp in the matrix area....we used to fill them on a steep slope rad neck highest up....you can always jack the car up as well if you live in the fens etc
then with rad bleed screws out and expansion cap off...heaters on full blast tick it over adding in small amounts of water/coolant so all the burps and bubbles flow up to the neck/bleed screw...for extreme cases run a hosepipe into the exp tank on trickle and blip the throttle from time to time to stir it up....once all was clear no bubbles and running to temp on 100% water add in correct mix of coolant caps on and away you go took a good 20-30 mins to be sure it was clear....sometimes we pulled off the matrix hoses and bypassed the thing to eliminate matrix blockage as some have their own thermostat and or very fine water channels that get easily blocked it at least shows its not the engine block...not sure how easy it is to bypass the matrix in a landy but i'm sure someone on here will advise
hope it helps

The LR workshop book advises detatching the header tank and hanging it up with a piece of string as high as hoses will allow,thus increasing pressure (or something).....seems to work.And if you havent already - replace the plastic bleed plugs on the rad and 'stat with brass ones,or even house radiator bleed plugs of similar size.

Tried me best today to bleed this through but even after an hour she was still letting out tiny bubbles.

Heaters were warm at first until I got back from a little run then they went Ice cold and she started to let out lots of white smoke.

Heads coming off tomorrow for a skim and test.

Oh also noticed the NEW ejector pump leaks. Great, hard to find the first time. New jubilee clips might sort that out.

little bubbles could be matrix on its way out (condensation in the cab / on the windscreen is a sign of failure) but head gasket too causes the same...you can get a gas sniffer to really be sure...as to skim only do this as a very last result...get a high quality dead straight rule first...run it over the heads to check first before doing any skim as you dont want to do one for the hell of it as you'll be stuffed if it warps at a later date as you'll have sod all left to skim...i'd go for gas sniffer first and or bypassing the matrix to see if she runs spot on temp without it.

just an afterthought....collapsed heater hose...they can when warmed up go soft and collapse/pinch off the flow this happens usually when wrong coolant hose length is fitted (sometimes people dont get the proper shaped hose or they are very old/poor quality).....well worth a check over for old/diy fixes to any hoses you can see

what head gasket did you use?
go for elring or payen for the next one.

pressure test and skim as matter of course for overheated ally heads.

not read anything about havin to remove header tank before (tho has been suggested loads of times), and never needed it either. my rave manual must be different?

nrgserv said:

what head gasket did you use?
go for elring or payen for the next one.

pressure test and skim as matter of course for overheated ally heads.

not read anything about havin to remove header tank before (tho has been suggested loads of times), and never needed it either. my rave manual must be different?

Click to expand...

Thanks for that, I'll okk em up.

Bypassed the heater matrix earlier today and bled through nice and slowly.

I still have the fine bubbles coming up, more apparent when the engine is revved and still get loads of white smoke.

I reckon I can rule out the heater matrix as being an issue and I reckon the ejector pump was to blame for the head going in the first place.

Head skim and test is £55.40 + vat from Foxwood here in Chesterfield which I think isn't a bad price.

I'll get the head off tomorrow and away.

I'll keep you posted.

Jon

£20 pressure test, £20 skim
bradford engine units, parry lane,
bradford.
maybe bit far from you, but if anyone else needs it

how do you blame the injector pump for it going initially?
just curious with this one

nrgserv said:

£20 pressure test, £20 skim
bradford engine units, parry lane,
bradford.
maybe bit far from you, but if anyone else needs it

how do you blame the injector pump for it going initially?
just curious with this one

Click to expand...

Thats a good price.

Not the injector pump, the ejector pump which is the small valve that is attached to the expansion tank.

I have been told these crap up and when I picked up a new one the chap said they can be responsible for the heads overheating.

looks as if its the gasket/head then...do check you dont have stripped head bolts that dont screw down tight enough, i had a vauxhall that blew white smoke and looked for all the world like a warped head but infact some grease monkey had stripped a thread on a previous occassion and not knowing what he'd done he went ahead and pugged up the gap with loads of liquid gasket...we drilled out the stripped bolt hole and heli-coiled it bought new bolts and result nice tight head flat to the block

I used new bolts last time but the 3 P gasket bolts were fooked and as you said someone had filled the threads up with blue hylomar. Took forever to dig it all out!

Hopefullly I'll get a result when it's back together.

Yogi Bear said:

Thats a good price.

Not the injector pump, the ejector pump which is the small valve that is attached to the expansion tank.

I have been told these crap up and when I picked up a new one the chap said they can be responsible for the heads overheating.

Click to expand...

never heard of this?
pressure valve in the cap? that what your talkin about?
pic would be good!

New one on me...not in LR workshop manual....must be one of those different names for same bits scenario....but would like to know !