Disco 1 300tdi starting problem

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I have replaced the fuel lift pump and the turbo (Oil seal had failed). No improvement. The smoke clears once the engines warm.

It’s slow turning over, I’ve now put a 830A, 95Ah battery in it, biggest I could find. No improvement

Once it does get going and warms up there is a slight knocking noise. I’ve not done a cam belt on a Disco before. Is it for the keen novice?
 
If its slow turning over and you're sure all earths and connections are good, it can only be the starter motor is tired. Is it slow turning over when its had a good run too?
Timing belt is certainly doable, as long as you have all the tools you need. Undoing (and doing back up) the crank pulley bolt is the biggest issue for most people. I'm sure there's a how-to somewhere on this site.
 
Is there a reason why you think the slight knocking noise is a cambelt issue? Or are you just mentioning these things together? If the cam belt needs doing then it needs doing cos it is old and or worn, but I wouldn't imagine it causing a knocking noise. (By the way when you do it DO change the tensioner at the same time.) The knocking noise, could it be something as simple as an exhaust hitting something gently, or an engine mount?
 
mine sounds exactly the same as this (1997 EDC 300tdi auto). Its been like this as long as I've had it, around 10 years. I have replaced the sender unit, fuel line (got rid of the sedimenter and ran a fuel line straight through), put a 1 way valve before the new Delphi lift pump. The fuel filter is replaced every 3000 miles with a Mann filter. I recently fitted a new 3.2 ohm cold weather environment starter motor, spins faster than the old, original, one, but doesn't start any quicker. Also have a 1000CCA Marine battery fitted. I have new glow plugs but the ones that are there seem to check out ok, so not yet fitted. This poor starting is not weather dependent as it is exactly the same whether its 30 degrees or -10. Doesn't blow smoke when its running and I have always had "this goes well" comments from anyone that's driven it. As the OP says its just !st start of the day, or if its allowed to go cold again. When the engines warmed up, no problem. There doesn't seem to be any fuel leaks (or air).
Very frustrating. I did try the by pass of the temp sensor in the head, with a 7.5 ohm resistor, and that seemed to be better but I have always shied away from lecktrickery (colour blind), so not sure how to do a permanent switch.
It has always been a bit of a joke with the kids and the missus, with calls of "come on Landy" every time we went anywhere. But I have to admit its wearing a bit thin now.
Apologies to the OP for the long ranting post/reply, just showing that your never on your own with whatever Land Rover problem you have.
 
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OP - sounds like you have a number of issues all conspiring against you. Post a piccie of your engine bay, specifically the FIP area, and we'll know if it is EDC ..... or not....

Then, let us know some history of this engine - service history, and cambelt change history .... :)
 
s0785488 said:
Fizzer, 10 years! Right help is here. I will get to the bottom of our problem.
Click to expand...
I would appreciate that my friend. Good luck, I hope you get to the bottom of it. I have, kind of, got used to it and accept that it is a bit of "character" but, it can be embarrassing at times and definitely a pain in the arse most of the time. As I am sure you know too well. It has never not started, I do keep a good battery on it and carry a spare and jump leads in winter. Wife would love to see the back of the car but I refuse to give up on it. Its like having a lazy dog, that's a bit incontinent, smells a bit and is always, somehow, wet.
I'll look forward to reading of your success.
 
I’ll get a photo of the engine bay tomorrow. I have a MAF sensor but my stop solenoid does not have the anti theft plate.

I replaced the Stop Solenoid, no improvement.

I’m going to fit a cold weather starter motor tomorrow.

I want to check the injection pump timing. I have the fly wheel pin and the pin for the injection pump. But....how to I turn the engine to get the fly wheel pin in?
 
Socket on the crank pulley, 30mm i think. This is the bolt you would have to remove to change the timing belt and its very tight
 
Don't think you'll find any marks on the outside, only when you have removed the pulley and got timing cover off. If you get someone to turn the crank slowly til you can get the flywheel pin in, you can remove the small inspection cover and check the FIP timing. Be aware there may be more than 1 place you can get the pin in the flywheel, I'm not sure on the 300tdi
 
Fair point, I missed the auto part :oops:
Hopefully saint's guide will give OP a good idea of what's involved in a belt change
 
I know this is about a 300tdi but the 200tdi definitely have a TDC mark on the crankshaft pulley and
A corresponding mark on the timing belt casing, a dab of white paint and you can be sure that the flywheel locking
Pin goes in the right place,
 
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