300tdi Serpintine Tensioner....

Hey Guys, driving to work down the motorway this morning and the dash lit up like a xmas tree. pulled over to find my serpintine belt intact but loose. closer inspection revealed that the tensioner pully housing bolt had sheered off. after collecting the pully and housing from up the motorway I managed to get to the office a few miles away but obvisouly heating with electric fan and not alternator was an issue. Heres my problem. half the bolt is still stuck in the engine from where it sheered off and I dont know when i will have the funds to get this fixed. Can i in true landy style, get a shorter belt to put round the crank, water pump and alt and use the alt as a tensioner for now until i can get this fixed properly?? Power steering really wont make any difference to me at the moment. below are pics i took this morning.



Thanks in advance.

No, I would get an easyout. The alt fixes to mountings and doesn't have a slide like the old ones did. I think to be honest you could have it back on the road for less than 5 quid.

It looks like a drill, well it sort of is a drill, you stick in in the hole and drill it in, it spins in reverse and will eventually grab the bolt and hopefully wind it out. Or you drill a hole then use the extractor tool, anyway it's easy.

Simple as.

Then stick a new bolt in or bit of threaded rod, get a good bolt and stick that in, make sure its not too long.

cheers for the prompt response. on the off chance i slip..... do you know what the bolt is attached in to. I.e external engine casing / cyclinder head etc.

hrox said:

on the off chance i slip..... do you know what the bolt is attached in to.

Click to expand...

There is a possiblity, if there's enough thread showing in front of the snapped off stud...

If you know a man with a lathe, get them to put a center drill down the center of a bolt with the same threads, then screw the bolt into the remaining thread. Use the hole in the middle of the bolt as a guide for a pilot hole with your drill.

I just happen to have a previously prepaired M10 bolt with a hole down the middle in my hand..!
PM me your address if you want me to drop it in the post to you...?

I had the same problem - went round a corner and suddenly lost the power steering and a very nasty banging noise from under the bonnet - brown trousers time !!
Easily fixed with a stud remover (see above posts) but had to remove radiator to get a drill to the sheared off stud. If you have a right-angle drill or chuck adapter, it might be possible without removing lots of bits.
Cheers.
David.

Any good with a MIG?If its not too far down the hole,contrive a way to hold a nut over it and tab a couple of weld from bolt to nut,spanner it slowly out,spray some releasing oil in,turn a little out,a little in,a little more out....until it comes free or at least far enough out to knock the nut off and mole grip it.Battery neg off fist,of course old boy!

I have a deeply founded suspicion/hatred for bolt extractors - the idea is so appealling : huge difficulty solves at one throw! However I have NEVER used one without some form of cock up (at least) or a major disaster.Right now I have a 300 disco off the road cos like yours it sheared a bolt while driving,of its own accord.Mines the end one of the P gasket,close to a bore,gallery and edge of block.Drilled it,extractor in,snapped off at the first resistance (britool they were) now no one can get it out,not even spark erosion cos the lump on end is too big to fit in either the tank type of the drip lube ones.Bugger.Not saying it will happen to you,just a possible to bear in mind.

I reckon you'd be better ,if you go the drill route,to use a fine bit first and increase the size and re drill untill you can wind the thread out with a pick.If you must use an extractor the square sectin ones are better and like before,oil..a bit forward...a bit back etc.....In my experience for "easy" read bloody difficult and "quick" read extremely time consuming......

....or maybe Im just a hamfisted fool ( to get a headstart one further posts I already know Im an idiot !)

Shocker has a point but ............... now it's broke, there's no tension on the remaining bit of "stud" that's left in the hole and not likely to be any rust or corrosion, so smallish hole and smallish stud extractor should work OK. Worked for me !!