300tdi non abs swivel pin adjust

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pauli

New Member
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284
Morning all
At the weekend I removed the drag link and track rod as I am going to replace the ball joints.As I had it in this state I thought I would give the swivel pin pre load a go.Prob is that the fixed brake pipe is right on top of one of the swivel pin bolts.Does this mean the pipe has to be removed and then the whole system bled:confused: It appears you cant torque down the bolt with the pipe in place:eek:
Any thoughts people
 
Very gently bend the pipe enough to get access to the bolt holdin' the bracket on, once undone remove the calliper and tie it to something out of they way and down't let it drop! Ye won't need to keep fittin' it to do the preloads (incase ye were wonderin');)

Changingmedefenderaxle004.jpg


Changingmedefenderaxle005.jpg
 
Cheers Buster
I was a little worried about bending the pipe in case it cracked.I spose if it does it can be replaced :D
 
Another quickey Buster
Haynes says around 1.5kg preload but that is with the unit dismantled.I read somewhere that in situ it should be around 7kg
Cheers
Paul:)
 
pauli said:
Another quickey Buster
Haynes says around 1.5kg preload but that is with the unit dismantled.I read somewhere that in situ it should be around 7kg
Cheers
Paul:)
Click to expand...


Hi Paul, I think the two figures relate to preload with and without the large inner scraper oil seal on the sphere. The larger figure is obviously with the seal in place.
 
yeah, on the bench you do it without the seal in place.

when rebuilding, the new seal takes quite a lot of squeezing down, so it makes it quite tight, but obviously leaky old seals wont be as tight...!

i set mine just using my 'mechanical sympathy' as i didnt have a spring balance to hand.

i tested the "weight" needed for the swivel by lifting a lump hammer of about the right weight in my palm, to get an idea of the force required, and then tried lifting the swivel housing. i set it a bit tighter cos they were new bearings.

i also judged it by feeling the movement:

when it was too tight the bearings felt lumpy/notchy when you moved it, but when they felt smooth and it felt like a lump hammer in my hand, i thought it was about right.

and the two sides were indeed slightly different...

thanks for listening :D
 
Thanks for the replies people
I had a look when I got home yesterday and the solid pipe goes from the bracket where it connects to the flexi pipe across the top of the caliper and connects to the caliper so I cant see any way of bending it out of the way.Busters photo looked a bit different to mine so it looks like off with the pipe.I have never bled a system before:eek:
 
Dunno if this is a better photie....

brakepipe.jpg


If it looks the same as that from above then ye just need to gently 'open' the gap enough to get yer socket in. Ah'm almost positive that's what ah did tae nick75's Disco 300 as well when ah did his swivel balls;)
 
Hi Buster
On mine on the drivers side when you look down on the swivel bolts the hose is at the right and connects to the bracket on the right.The pipe connects to the left of the bracket and goes across the right hand bolt and connects to the caliper so there is no room to bend the pipe.
Hope that makes sense:)
 
pauli said:
Hi Buster
On mine on the drivers side when you look down on the swivel bolts the hose is at the right and connects to the bracket on the right.The pipe connects to the left of the bracket and goes across the right hand bolt and connects to the caliper so there is no room to bend the pipe.
Hope that makes sense:)
Click to expand...

Don't suppose ye've got any photies pauli? It must be doable as ah've done it before and never needed to disconnect the pipes:confused::confused:
 
Hi Buster
If you have RAVE look at the discovery section and under section BRAKES then REPAIR then Front brake calipers there is a diagram that shows it better than I can explain
Maybe if anyone can attach the diagram to the post that would be great I have and old Adobe without the camera tool:doh: :eek:
 
pauli said:
Hi Buster
If you have RAVE look at the discovery section and under section BRAKES then REPAIR then Front brake calipers there is a diagram that shows it better than I can explain
Maybe if anyone can attach the diagram to the post that would be great I have and old Adobe without the camera tool:doh: :eek:
Click to expand...

Haven't got RAVE on this computer mate (did have on me old one until it got fried!).
Can't get my head round this one:doh: Ye must be able to get a socket onto it somehow... how else are ye goin' to torque it up??:confused::confused:
 
True Buster
I can only assume you torque it up then re connect the pipe
Alas that does mean the system will have to be bled.
Is it that difficult to do the bleeding or is it bleeding hard:eek:
 
Every manual I have read says undo the pipe bracket and caliper, and move the assembly aside.

I managed it on a 200 and that has 2 pipes!!

If not socket then spanner???
 
As Mister Noisy said you could use a spanner but I think the torque is particularly important in this case:doh:
 
just re-fitted mine today

to remove - the bolt thats accessable - 17mm socket on a strong bar,
the bolt thats under the pipe - 2 spanners linked are needed, and its pretty tight so watch your knuckles on the spring/chassis. i tried everything to get the pipe out of the way, and there isnt enough movement to get it clear.

to re-fit - both bolts as tight as they were to undo, mine were VERY tight and have been done up the same way. same trick with the spanners to tighten the bolt under the pipe.
 
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