300tdi miles per gallon

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Tips for safe, economical motoring:

This will be split into two sections, 1.vehicle related, which will assume a problem-free vehicle and 2.driving style.

Things to check on your vehicle:

1. Tyres & Tyre pressures. Tyres that are under-inflated cause more drag, all terrain tyres cause more drag, wider tyres cause more drag.
If you want max economy on the road, run road tyres at the correct pressures and have a spare set of wheels for off-road ones. The choice is yours.

2. Tracking. If your front wheels are toe-out or toe-in (over spec) this will cause drag.

3. Brakes. Any brake calipers that are sticking-on will cause drag. To test for this, drive to a quiet, slightly uphill road and then let the vehicle coast to a halt, do not touch any of the brakes. Just before the car stops pay particular attention, it should just gently roll to a halt and then start
to roll backwards. If it does this with no stiffness or dragging your brakes are ok, in this respect.

Landys sometimes have their handbrake dragging, this test will show that up, if it's a problem on your car.

4. Air filter. LR Diesels are particularly sensitive to having a good strong incoming air flow, if it's restricted in any way, fuel consumption will increase. When setting up a car for optimum mpg, put a new std paper air filter in, they cost next to nothing so why wouldn't you?

5. The drivetrain. The permanent 4 wheel-drive nature of modern Landys means there are SIGNIFICANT power losses between available power at the crankshaft and power at the wheels. After ensuring that all is running correctly, the only thing I would advise is the use of fully synthetic oils in gearbox/transfer box and axles. I found the car runs quieter and actually
feels like there is less drag.

6. The engine. First ensure it is running to spec, then for me clean breathing is the thing, so no EGR's, no cats, clean/new rubber hoses and a clean intercooler.

7. Auto gearboxes. I've run a few autos before but I found with the Disco I really had to take the time to get used to it, to get the best out of it.

Initially I found when taking off from a standing start I would give it too much pedal, which forced the revs up higher than neccesary. I also
found myself driving faster to get into 'torque lock-up' mode as quickly as possible.

I now believe that was a mistake which was costing me fuel and unneccesary tension. Maybe my auto has got a bit too much torque converter slip, I don't know but now I move off quite gently until I'm in third or fourth before "encouraging her along a bit"!

As you all know lock-up comes in at about 52mph and then it's almost as if you were in 5th
gear on a manual. (yes I know the final drive gearing is slightly different)

Driving Style:

Most of these comments are based on a rudimentry understanding of the "Advanced driving style" as promulgated by the Police, and can be summarised as planning and anticipation.

1. Always be looking ahead, way ahead, so that you can plan your driving better. Eg If you see someone turning left off your road, lift off, if you see brake lights in the distance, lift off, if you see red traffic lights in the distance, lift off. Every time you avoid slowing right down or
stopping - you are saving diesel.

2. Once at your desired speed, gently and progressively back off the accelerator. You may well be surprised just how much you can back off, without losing any speed.

3. With auto-boxes below 52mph, pay particular attention to how much pedal you giving the
car. I found with the Disco that if I wasn't paying attention at say 40mph, the revs were working away, but if I just lifted my foot the revs would drop by 5-700rpm, without any drop in road speed.

4. Anticipate the flow of traffic such that under normal conditions you don't need to use your
brakes. EVERY time you use your brakes (other than in an emergency) you waste fuel, every time!

5. Relax. Start your journey 5 mins earlier and you will arrive having used less fuel and much less tense. Just try it for one day and see the effect.

Right that's enough of that I'm sure you're all getting very bored, but I have posted good mpg
figures and they have been questioned and I was asked how I achieved them - so there you
are.
 
thebiglad said:
Tips for safe, economical motoring:

This will be split into two sections, 1.vehicle related, which will assume a problem-free vehicle and 2.driving style.

Things to check on your vehicle:

1. Tyres & Tyre pressures. Tyres that are under-inflated cause more drag, all terrain tyres cause more drag, wider tyres cause more drag.
If you want max economy on the road, run road tyres at the correct pressures and have a spare set of wheels for off-road ones. The choice is yours.

2. Tracking. If your front wheels are toe-out or toe-in (over spec) this will cause drag.

3. Brakes. Any brake calipers that are sticking-on will cause drag. To test for this, drive to a quiet, slightly uphill road and then let the vehicle coast to a halt, do not touch any of the brakes. Just before the car stops pay particular attention, it should just gently roll to a halt and then start
to roll backwards. If it does this with no stiffness or dragging your brakes are ok, in this respect.

Landys sometimes have their handbrake dragging, this test will show that up, if it's a problem on your car.

4. Air filter. LR Diesels are particularly sensitive to having a good strong incoming air flow, if it's restricted in any way, fuel consumption will increase. When setting up a car for optimum mpg, put a new std paper air filter in, they cost next to nothing so why wouldn't you?

5. The drivetrain. The permanent 4 wheel-drive nature of modern Landys means there are SIGNIFICANT power losses between available power at the crankshaft and power at the wheels. After ensuring that all is running correctly, the only thing I would advise is the use of fully synthetic oils in gearbox/transfer box and axles. I found the car runs quieter and actually
feels like there is less drag.

6. The engine. First ensure it is running to spec, then for me clean breathing is the thing, so no EGR's, no cats, clean/new rubber hoses and a clean intercooler.

7. Auto gearboxes. I've run a few autos before but I found with the Disco I really had to take the time to get used to it, to get the best out of it.

Initially I found when taking off from a standing start I would give it too much pedal, which forced the revs up higher than neccesary. I also
found myself driving faster to get into 'torque lock-up' mode as quickly as possible.

I now believe that was a mistake which was costing me fuel and unneccesary tension. Maybe my auto has got a bit too much torque converter slip, I don't know but now I move off quite gently until I'm in third or fourth before "encouraging her along a bit"!

As you all know lock-up comes in at about 52mph and then it's almost as if you were in 5th
gear on a manual. (yes I know the final drive gearing is slightly different)

Driving Style:

Most of these comments are based on a rudimentry understanding of the "Advanced driving style" as promulgated by the Police, and can be summarised as planning and anticipation.

1. Always be looking ahead, way ahead, so that you can plan your driving better. Eg If you see someone turning left off your road, lift off, if you see brake lights in the distance, lift off, if you see red traffic lights in the distance, lift off. Every time you avoid slowing right down or
stopping - you are saving diesel.

2. Once at your desired speed, gently and progressively back off the accelerator. You may well be surprised just how much you can back off, without losing any speed.

3. With auto-boxes below 52mph, pay particular attention to how much pedal you giving the
car. I found with the Disco that if I wasn't paying attention at say 40mph, the revs were working away, but if I just lifted my foot the revs would drop by 5-700rpm, without any drop in road speed.

4. Anticipate the flow of traffic such that under normal conditions you don't need to use your
brakes. EVERY time you use your brakes (other than in an emergency) you waste fuel, every time!

5. Relax. Start your journey 5 mins earlier and you will arrive having used less fuel and much less tense. Just try it for one day and see the effect.

Right that's enough of that I'm sure you're all getting very bored, but I have posted good mpg
figures and they have been questioned and I was asked how I achieved them - so there you
are.
Click to expand...

Much Appreciated Biglad will give these a whirl and see what happens, think its probably more my driving style to be honest so will remove the lead boot and see what happens.

Thanks again!
 
my 300 does about a steady 32 average. Its had egr removed, fuel pump tweaked (see other threads on this site), particulate filter in exhaust gone. She pulls clean from 1000rpm and pulls my plant trailer at low revs better than my 03 td5! The td5 is going to get the same treatment as before my tdi was pants - everywhere and had crap mpg.
 
pindie said:
my 300 does about a steady 32 average. Its had egr removed, fuel pump tweaked (see other threads on this site), particulate filter in exhaust gone. She pulls clean from 1000rpm and pulls my plant trailer at low revs better than my 03 td5! The td5 is going to get the same treatment as before my tdi was pants - everywhere and had crap mpg.
Click to expand...

Hi Pindie, I'm interested in the difference you found when you removed the particulate filter, more performance, more economy - how would you quantify the difference?

I've done the De-EGR thing and I'm waiting to fit a new cat(not really a cat, I know)-less downpipe.

Cheers
Dave
 
Leedsthug said:
Getting 32 on a run and 28 around town in my 98 300TDi Auto.

Anyone using any diesel treatments and think they make any difference ?
Click to expand...


Aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrgggggghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

From click to Yellow light coming on ive just done 350 miles, can someone do the maths please!

I even took into account most of biglads hints n tips, was going great did 130 mile plus on the first quarter of tank then 80 mile on the second quarter then 60 on the 3rd quarter and the remainder on the last quarter!!!!!!

What the fook is going on, is it the sea air up here or what? or am i going mad all i want is to get 400 miiles from a full tank at least .

Yhink am going to have to pillage all these hundreds of rapeseed fields we see round here and create my own refinery in the back garden to be able to survive and now its 120p a fudging litre god help me.

The ex doris takes less money off me a month, hmmmm now theres a thought, wonder if i could harvest all her hot air and use that a fuel? or maybe just melt her down and refine her, nah shed fook me engine up worse than bio..................
 
girvtheswerve said:
Aaaaaaaaarrrrrrrgggggghhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!

From click to Yellow light coming on ive just done 350 miles, can someone do the maths please!

I even took into account most of biglads hints n tips, was going great did 130 mile plus on the first quarter of tank then 80 mile on the second quarter then 60 on the 3rd quarter and the remainder on the last quarter!!!!!!

What the fook is going on, is it the sea air up here or what? or am i going mad all i want is to get 400 miiles from a full tank at least .

Yhink am going to have to pillage all these hundreds of rapeseed fields we see round here and create my own refinery in the back garden to be able to survive and now its 120p a fudging litre god help me.

The ex doris takes less money off me a month, hmmmm now theres a thought, wonder if i could harvest all her hot air and use that a fuel? or maybe just melt her down and refine her, nah shed fook me engine up worse than bio..................
Click to expand...

Hi Girve, I don't know what else to say. I can understand your frustration.

You haven't got anything dragging out the back - like an anchor or something :p

You don't say how many litrs so I can't do the maths, but it don't sound good. I am remembering correctly that you have a Tdi 300??

I don't know what else to suggest but if you're driving using the general approach I suggested, you should be getting more like 450-500 miles, first click (on the pump I assume?) to yellow light.

No smoke? No leaks?

I've just had a look on your profile at the picture of your truck - what size tyres are you running? They look like bigger than standard? Standard tyres would be 235/70/16 or 205/80/16.
 
I reckon doing the free pipe etc increased my mpg by a significant amount but the biggest change came in feel from the vehicle. It suddenly was nippy and you do not feel you have to work it to make good progress.

I never have to rev past 2800 rpm and can rumble around in third or fourth and pull cleanly from 1500 rpm. This alone i think helps mpg a lot. Even towing my cherry pickers about I can get 28 mpg as I do not have to work at keeping speed.

On the mway it means no changing down to fourth for hills, just a slight press of the faster pedal and feel the wave of torque. I wish my td5 felt the same, I am told once this has the same mods it will be even better! Trouble is to do everything will cost best part of a grand where on the tdi it was done for less than £100.
 
pindie said:
I reckon doing the free pipe etc increased my mpg by a significant amount but the biggest change came in feel from the vehicle. It suddenly was nippy and you do not feel you have to work it to make good progress.

I never have to rev past 2800 rpm and can rumble around in third or fourth and pull cleanly from 1500 rpm. This alone i think helps mpg a lot. Even towing my cherry pickers about I can get 28 mpg as I do not have to work at keeping speed.

On the mway it means no changing down to fourth for hills, just a slight press of the faster pedal and feel the wave of torque. I wish my td5 felt the same, I am told once this has the same mods it will be even better! Trouble is to do everything will cost best part of a grand where on the tdi it was done for less than £100.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that Pindie, that's really helpful. I was going to order my pipe this week until I found that I needed new pads and a pair of rear shocks plus a new doughnut - ho hum:( :)
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Girve, I don't know what else to say. I can understand your frustration.

You haven't got anything dragging out the back - like an anchor or something :p

You don't say how many litrs so I can't do the maths, but it don't sound good. I am remembering correctly that you have a Tdi 300??

I don't know what else to suggest but if you're driving using the general approach I suggested, you should be getting more like 450-500 miles, first click (on the pump I assume?) to yellow light.

No smoke? No leaks?

Hi Big

OK then one of my probs cud be me boots, profile needs updating as got 33/12.50 x15s on now, however that said there has been no deterioration since I got the vehicle in standard form?

So since I got it in November, I have changed all oils and filters, put straight thru exhaust system on removed "Cat", de egr'd it checked all fuel system for leaks, fitted new lift pump 3 weeks ago as this was ****ing out fuel, the whole system is leak proof.

Surely the tyres can't have that much of a detrimental effect can they? as I said the MPG has stayed the same since i got it ????

is it something more sinister? It really is annoying me now:mad:
Click to expand...
 
girvtheswerve said:
[

Hi Big

OK then one of my probs cud be me boots, profile needs updating as got 33/12.50 x15s on now, however that said there has been no deterioration since I got the vehicle in standard form?

So since I got it in November, I have changed all oils and filters, put straight thru exhaust system on removed "Cat", de egr'd it checked all fuel system for leaks, fitted new lift pump 3 weeks ago as this was ****ing out fuel, the whole system is leak proof.

Surely the tyres can't have that much of a detrimental effect can they? as I said the MPG has stayed the same since i got it ????

is it something more sinister? It really is annoying me now:mad:
Click to expand...

Hi Girve, I wonder if the tyres are making a difference, but not just in one way.

From your pic they look like quite big tall tyres. I've just tried the tyre calculator I normally use but it doesn't have sizes like 33/12.5/15, all it's numbers are like 235/70/16, that type of numbering. You don't happpen to know what your tyre size is would you, using metric numbers?

I have a feeling that your tyres are doing two things that are screwing your mpg calculations:

1. Muds are generally not great at good mpg, road tyres are always better on juice and narrower ones better still - got something to do with less drag apparently;

2. Bigger tyres will muck up your gearing therefore your speedo and more importantly your mileometer. Here's an example:

Std tyre size for our car is either 205/80/16 or 235/70/16, both give near identical gearing, now change for 265/80/16, this would be the effect:

When the speedo reads 60mph you're actually doing 67.8mph

Your mileometer will read 12.9% low, so when your mileometer says you've done 100 miles, you've actually done 112.9 miles.

Incidently this has nothing whatsoever to do with the accuracy of speedos', it just indicates the effect of changing the gearing by changing your tyres.

So, what does this mean to you? Well, what it could mean is that your mpg is actually a bit better than you think. The muds will make a minus, but the gearing difference will make a plus.

Do you have a journey that you have done on a regular basis, with either this vehicle before modifications or another vehicle - so that you are sure about the real distance. Could you perhaps use this as a benchmark to compare with the reading you get on this vehicle after modifications.

In other words, get to the bottom of this over-gearing to see what effect that is having on your mpg calculations, not the results.

I know I'm not explaining this as clearly as I would like, but my strong suspicion is that your mpg is actually better than the calculations might suggest.
 
Hi Girve, jus had another thought about your mpg situation.

Imagine you have covered 10,000 miles according to the mileometer and due to the bigger tyres the gearing is out by 12.9%, that would mean you have only covered 8700 miles.

We don't know exactly how many gallons you've used so we apply the average mpg of 23, to get the amount of gallons, which equals 378 gallons.

If you then divide 10,000 by 378 you get 26.45 mpg

This is only an example of how gearing can muck up you mpg calcs, because I can't find a tyre converter at the mo, but it does make for interesting thought.

What do you reckon??
 
thebiglad said:
Hi Girve, jus had another thought about your mpg situation.

Imagine you have covered 10,000 miles according to the mileometer and due to the bigger tyres the gearing is out by 12.9%, that would mean you have only covered 8700 miles.

We don't know exactly how many gallons you've used so we apply the average mpg of 23, to get the amount of gallons, which equals 378 gallons.

If you then divide 10,000 by 378 you get 26.45 mpg

This is only an example of how gearing can muck up you mpg calcs, because I can't find a tyre converter at the mo, but it does make for interesting thought.

What do you reckon??
Click to expand...

Hey Big

I ve been using this Kouki Tech >> Tyre size calculator to work out the difference, I recon the 33's are roughly the equivalent of 285/75 x 16's and this would indicate a difference of around 13.4% so for my 350 miles the other week that would actually equate to 396 miles. now, I put in £86 of diesel in at £1.20 a litre that wud equal 71 litres or 15.75 gallons, ergo 25 mpg, now that makes me ever so slightly happier .

Now if i could just get that extra 5 mpg and get it up to 30, id be a really happy boy, think I may have to ease off on the old loud pedal to be honest, but I just cant help listening to the straight thru exhaust note, simply a wonderful noise, who needs a V8? need to grow up and act my 39 years not my sons 7.

Thanks for your help Big!
 
girvtheswerve said:
Hey Big

I ve been using this Kouki Tech >> Tyre size calculator to work out the difference, I recon the 33's are roughly the equivalent of 285/75 x 16's and this would indicate a difference of around 13.4% so for my 350 miles the other week that would actually equate to 396 miles. now, I put in £86 of diesel in at £1.20 a litre that wud equal 71 litres or 15.75 gallons, ergo 25 mpg, now that makes me ever so slightly happier .

Now if i could just get that extra 5 mpg and get it up to 30, id be a really happy boy, think I may have to ease off on the old loud pedal to be honest, but I just cant help listening to the straight thru exhaust note, simply a wonderful noise, who needs a V8? need to grow up and act my 39 years not my sons 7.

Thanks for your help Big!
Click to expand...

It's a real pleasure Girve, glad to hear that things are getting back into proportion - a bit;) ;) :D :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
625 miles per tank and then low fuel light comes on. will then take 90 litres. 151000 miles. check the tyre pressures ! fit new fuel / filters !
 
I'm hoping someone can answer a puzzle concerning my '94 300Tdi.

I fill tank completely and reset mile counter.

Driving carefully on roads only I get 150 miles out of first quarter tank.

Then everything changes, apart from my driving and the light comes on at 430 miles.

Mmmmmm?

150 miles first quarter, average less than 100 miles per quarter tank thereafter.

Can you see but more importantly offer solutions or reasons to my puzzle?

:confused::confused::confused:
 
Kev627 said:
I'm hoping someone can answer a puzzle concerning my '94 300Tdi.

I fill tank completely and reset mile counter.

Driving carefully on roads only I get 150 miles out of first quarter tank.

Then everything changes, apart from my driving and the light comes on at 430 miles.

Mmmmmm?

150 miles first quarter, average less than 100 miles per quarter tank thereafter.

Can you see but more importantly offer solutions or reasons to my puzzle?

:confused::confused::confused:
Click to expand...

Hi there, tht's completely normal. I believ the reason why you appear to get so many miles out of the first quarter is that you are also using the fuel that's in the filler pipe as well as the tank.

I find if I fill her up until I see the diesel, I can about 150 miles before it shows anything off full.

I reckon to get between 550-600 on a tank, with the yellow low fuel light just coming on.

Your fuel consumption seems to be just a bit on the high side.

Have you checked/replaced Air Filter (no 1 priority), are you running on std 235/70/ or 205/80/16 road tyres.
 
The quarter marks on the guage don't accurately correspont with the quarters of the tank if you know what I mean. It's unrealistic to expect a fuel guage to be mega accurate.
 
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