1997 Discovery
Active Member
- Posts
- 538
- Location
- Near Worthing, West Sussex, UK
Mine had the exact same fault, turned out to be a faulty number 4 injector, I found the fault by having a diagnostic check done
300TDI EDC Auto starting problems
- Thread starter pauldaf44
- Start date
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pauldaf44
Active Member
- Posts
- 440
- Location
- Carmarthenshire
Guess what its still not starting but ive narrowed the pottential causes down significantly.
So to recap starting is very difficult regardless of engine temperature and gets harder the longer she is left. She turns over a decent speed and when started runs smoothly enough but is thirsty and badly down on power.
What we've done already
1. Replaced liftpump
2. Reset injection timing which was 2 teeth out.
3. Checked all fuel pipes including those inside the tank and all are good.
4. Injectors all have a reasonable spray pattern.
5. Fuel filter replaced and sedimenter cleaned.
6. Section of fuel hose replaced for clear and can confirm there are is no air in the fuel and the injection pump has a good strong supply.
7. All 4 cylinders reading 280psi compression sorry that should have read 380psi I hope I heard him right because 280 would be too low. That's got me wondering now.
Having cracked open an injector pipe it doesn't seem to have a lot of pressure inside it although I can't test as my pressure tester doesn't go high enough which I thinks points to a knackered injection pump.
So is it worth trying to refurb it or should I just change it? Also how much work would be involved in getting rid of this infernal electronic control?
So to recap starting is very difficult regardless of engine temperature and gets harder the longer she is left. She turns over a decent speed and when started runs smoothly enough but is thirsty and badly down on power.
What we've done already
1. Replaced liftpump
2. Reset injection timing which was 2 teeth out.
3. Checked all fuel pipes including those inside the tank and all are good.
4. Injectors all have a reasonable spray pattern.
5. Fuel filter replaced and sedimenter cleaned.
6. Section of fuel hose replaced for clear and can confirm there are is no air in the fuel and the injection pump has a good strong supply.
7. All 4 cylinders reading 280psi compression sorry that should have read 380psi I hope I heard him right because 280 would be too low. That's got me wondering now.
Having cracked open an injector pipe it doesn't seem to have a lot of pressure inside it although I can't test as my pressure tester doesn't go high enough which I thinks points to a knackered injection pump.
So is it worth trying to refurb it or should I just change it? Also how much work would be involved in getting rid of this infernal electronic control?
Last edited:
remedave
New Member
- Posts
- 283
For what's it's worth .....
I have a edc that landed with me as a none runner
Done every thing you done and it was the t belt it the Pulley plastic had smashed knocked timing out 2 teeth, runs sweet now but still a little something there
It starts perfect first click but 1 in 10 it will fire then cut out immediately ? Then start straight back up and be fine
It's other playful thing it likes to do is what I call ON OF as I am driving just now and then, it's like you just flick the ignition off then back on its a clean shut of very quick and no check engine light and no fault codes it defiantly not a misfire so it must be either the stop solenoid or the power supply to it the same faults are clearly the same.
I am going to run a permanent live on crock clips to the stop seloniod for a week and see how I get on
Just thought you might like to know
I have a edc that landed with me as a none runner
Done every thing you done and it was the t belt it the Pulley plastic had smashed knocked timing out 2 teeth, runs sweet now but still a little something there
It starts perfect first click but 1 in 10 it will fire then cut out immediately ? Then start straight back up and be fine
It's other playful thing it likes to do is what I call ON OF as I am driving just now and then, it's like you just flick the ignition off then back on its a clean shut of very quick and no check engine light and no fault codes it defiantly not a misfire so it must be either the stop solenoid or the power supply to it the same faults are clearly the same.
I am going to run a permanent live on crock clips to the stop seloniod for a week and see how I get on
Just thought you might like to know
Tony Weber
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Zambia
Tony Weber
New Member
- Posts
- 2
- Location
- Zambia
Hi,
I too have a disco 1 300tdi auto. I received it with the engine stripped down. I have assembled her and all good except for the boost control connection to the turbo. Where does yours connect to with the electronic pump. A picture would be great. I believe there is a boost control solenoid somewhere?
Secondly where does the capillary tube on the EGR connect to other side of the solenoid?
Your help will be greatly appreciate
I too have a disco 1 300tdi auto. I received it with the engine stripped down. I have assembled her and all good except for the boost control connection to the turbo. Where does yours connect to with the electronic pump. A picture would be great. I believe there is a boost control solenoid somewhere?
Secondly where does the capillary tube on the EGR connect to other side of the solenoid?
Your help will be greatly appreciate
Farmie
Member
- Posts
- 73
- Location
- East Sussex
Any luck with this Paul ?.
