Disco 1 300tdi clutch bleeding

The Mad Hat Man said:

Ok
Just I have one of those I linked to.

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Thanks MHM, appreciate the thought, I will see how the eazibleed goes. I am getting pretty convinced it an internal issue. But still got my fingers crossed...LOL

Cheers

Well despite fingers crossed,

Tried the eazibleed Gunson unit. had nice clean air free fluid coming out of the bleed nipple, went through 3 of the gunson reservoirs of fluid approx guess 750ml of fluid. it was all clean coming out, this is on top of the 6 other bleeds we have done where we had no air either.

Looks like it is time to decide if it goes off to the garage local to my Father or if I get my hands dirty.

Cheers

You spent at least 16yrs free loading off the poor chap, get your overalls on it's pay back time.

I know its a bit late..... but look on the good side, you now have an Easybleed ... No-one has suggested that the clutch release arm has worn through. This is a common problem, and most peeps now fit a strengthened one. Sometimes you can see it working, otherwise its box off/engine out jobby .

having said that, I believe @jamesmartin has said it could be done by sliding the box back?

Flossie said:

You spent at least 16yrs free loading off the poor chap, get your overalls on it's pay back time.

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I did offer, It is just the timing if he decides he needs it doing urgently. I quite like the idea.

The Mad Hat Man said:

I know its a bit late..... but look on the good side, you now have an Easybleed ... No-one has suggested that the clutch release arm has worn through. This is a common problem, and most peeps now fit a strengthened one. Sometimes you can see it working, otherwise its box off/engine out jobby .

having said that, I believe @jamesmartin has said it could be done by sliding the box back?

Click to expand...

If I was to do it, as I do not have a ramp to stick it on, i would elect to pull the engine, I do not enjoy trying to be an elastic man anymore..LOL. Much prefer having room to move and see what I am doing. Clutch fork was one of the things on the list of possible causes, as this was discussed before when my slave cylinder went on the 90. Plus you can hear something moving in the bell housing. Never mind, all good fun and the eazibleed is worth a tenner just to keep for future use if needed.

Cheers

i assume you also have the problem of moving it?

The Mad Hat Man said:

i assume you also have the problem of moving it?

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At the moment yes. Not the best to be driving without a clutch, possible in shirt trips on quiet roads , but not something i want to plan on. Have loads of room and space here. Does not help me having the D2 down as well at the same time. ( off now to change the Crank sensor on that )

,Cheers

So, due to being away for quite a few days over the coming weeks, the Old Man has decided he is going to get the local garage to have a look and see if it is worthwhile for them to fix it. If they say the cost of them doing the work makes it not viable from their POV then I might get the chance to pull the engine and have a look.

Only risk that it might still be a MC Issue, I can see is that the only one I had to hand was the one off the old spare 300tdi which was working when it was parked up, but then we all know how that can backfire on us. But as it "appeared" to feel OK, when operated by hand on the bench we will have to see, but then so did the one originally fitted in comparison.

Once I find out what is wrong I will update this thread.

Off to billing for the weekend now. Hoping not to break the 90 as I need it next week for the bakewell bash.

Cheers

Warning! Bodges cowboy alert! Warning!
(Cut a hole with a hole saw in the bell housing to see what's happening)
.

Flossie said:

Warning! Bodges cowboy alert! Warning!
(Cut a hole with a hole saw in the bell housing to see what's happening)
.

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Actually, they are a very well respected local garage that I would 100% trust not to try and pull a flyer, as they rely on their local name. Plus the owner has known my Father since they were kids. So altho I appreciate the warning it is totally unfounded in this case.

Cheers

No no no!
I meant you cut a hole to see what's happening not the garage.

The Mad Hat Man said:

I know its a bit late..... but look on the good side, you now have an Easybleed ... No-one has suggested that the clutch release arm has worn through. This is a common problem, and most peeps now fit a strengthened one. Sometimes you can see it working, otherwise its box off/engine out jobby .

having said that, I believe @jamesmartin has said it could be done by sliding the box back?

Click to expand...

The release fork on mine broke, one "finger" snapped clean off, and clutch wont disengage without both fingers pushing on the throwout bearing.
I went through all all that @neilly has done to try to cure and was 1,800klms from home just to add to the fun, drove all the way back minus clutch, then out with the gearbox, drained the syncro's out with the oil, but 7 years on still working fine.

Flossie said:

No no no!
I meant you cut a hole to see what's happening not the garage.

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Sorry, Flossie, My bad....

I did think about it, but did not have the kit handy to get on and do it. If I had more time to spend on it, it is something i would consider going back and doing today. Just would need to identify the "X" marks the spot place to drill. Where would you suggest for future reference? any ideas, approx dist from front of bell housing and looking from front position on a clock face? drilling a 25mm hole to get an endoscope in.

Having the D2 break on me really scuppered my timing and plans.

Cheers

This saga is beginning to sound like "Bleedin' clutch!"

neilly said:

Sorry, Flossie, My bad....

I did think about it, but did not have the kit handy to get on and do it. If I had more time to spend on it, it is something i would consider going back and doing today. Just would need to identify the "X" marks the spot place to drill. Where would you suggest for future reference? any ideas, approx dist from front of bell housing and looking from front position on a clock face? drilling a 25mm hole to get an endoscope in.

Having the D2 break on me really scuppered my timing and plans.

Cheers

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No idea never done it sorry.
However...you know where the flywheel is because of the timing plug hole, add 3" back from that will clear the clutch cover , drill at the bottom to avoid the fork pivot?.

why not look in through the wading plug hole?

The Mad Hat Man said:

why not look in through the wading plug hole?

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Flywheel is in the way.

Flossie said:

Flywheel is in the way.

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bugger

Flossie said:

No idea never done it sorry.
However...you know where the flywheel is because of the timing plug hole, add 3" back from that will clear the clutch cover , drill at the bottom to avoid the fork pivot?.

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but dont go wading

neilly said:

Sorry, Flossie, My bad....

I did think about it, but did not have the kit handy to get on and do it. If I had more time to spend on it, it is something i would consider going back and doing today. Just would need to identify the "X" marks the spot place to drill. Where would you suggest for future reference? any ideas, approx dist from front of bell housing and looking from front position on a clock face? drilling a 25mm hole to get an endoscope in.

Having the D2 break on me really scuppered my timing and plans.

Cheers

Click to expand...

If you've got access to an endoscope, could you not simply remove the clutch slave and feed the 'scope in through the opening for the slave?
Do you really want to bore a hole in your bellhousing? This sort of thing with the clutch may only happen once in the life of the vehicle, another hole just lets dirt and water in.