300tdi Auto Check Engine Light sounds rattly

Thanks, I'm going to get a second hand MAF this week hopefully and a tps so will swap them out and hopefully *fingers crossed* all will be well again.

Another question (sorry!)... I'm confused as to whether I've got an EDC or a none-EDC auto - reason being is its got a MAF, a check engine light and a boost pressure sensor on the bulkhead which I believe are all EDC components.

However the injector pump appears to have a throttle cable on it?


The only thing I can think of is its because my EDC auto has cruise control? Certainly if I apply vacuum to the cruise control diaphragm it moves the throttle cable.

terrastudios said:

Another question (sorry!)... I'm confused as to whether I've got an EDC or a none-EDC auto - reason being is its got a MAF, a check engine light and a boost pressure sensor on the bulkhead which I believe are all EDC components.

However the injector pump appears to have a throttle cable on it?


The only thing I can think of is its because my EDC auto has cruise control? Certainly if I apply vacuum to the cruise control diaphragm it moves the throttle cable.

Click to expand...

If you follow those cables do they go to the bellows arrangement on the offside inner wing? If yes, they are the cruise control actuators.


Next.................I feel we are on a roll here...................drink anyone?

my engine check light comes on at dead on 1500 revs anymore or less and it goes out but the engine runs fine just ignore it now

Hi Colin

Thing is when the check engine light comes on the engine goes into limp mode... you can tell this because it struggles to get up the hills until i take my foot off the accelerator, causing the check engine light to go off and then i get power back until it comes on again!

Matt

Just as an update got a replacement (second hand) MAF from ebay... checked it with mmeter and resistance now changes when you push the flap open so its doing more than my previous one. However fault still remains. Presuming now its the TPS sensor however unsure as to how the engine actually accelerates if the TPS sensor has failed?

Right so I've changed -
MAF

Unplugged
Crank sensor / Needle lift sensor / Coolant sensor / TPS

Problem still remains, upon unplugging the crank sensor, needle lift, coolant and TPS check engine light comes on and stays on all the time which I guess is expected behaviour.

TPS unplugged the accelerator pedal does nothing, which again is expected.

Engine idle speed is slightly high (about 900 rpm), gets higher with things unplugged (about 1100 rpm).

Lift pump is ok - checked with the manual priming lever definate pressure from the bleed screw on top of fuel filter.

Only thing I can think of left is the injector pump timing? But the only thing confusing me is sometimes the engine goes real smooth for maybe 10-15 seconds then its back to being lumpy, if it was the pump timing surely it would be off all the time?