300 Tdi Rebuild

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Al2O3 said:
it's possibly going through as a mist and getting burned.
Click to expand...

The intercooler is a good place to look as it collects oil easily owing to the pressure drop - if its no worse in there than your pipework then that more or less answers it, might be worth swapping the cartridge if a note worthy amount has collected at the bottom though.

Did you say previously there wasn't much crankcase blow-by? (as you would expect with a rebuild obviously)
 
As an aside to what you are discussing, How is the turbo pressure build up now? Iirc, you were saying it was very slow originally. Did the replacement turbo fix this issue?

Cheers
 
Goc3k said:
The intercooler is a good place to look as it collects oil easily owing to the pressure drop - if its no worse in there than your pipework then that more or less answers it, might be worth swapping the cartridge if a note worthy amount has collected at the bottom though.
Click to expand...
I can see that that makes sense.It does to me anyway. I still think the theory of it getting blown through hold a bit of water. Given the amount of oil it was using (haven't resumed the checks) in the the miles covered. It would take much of a fine mist squirting through per minute to end up being 250ml in a few hundred miles.

Goc3k said:
Did you say previously there wasn't much crankcase blow-by? (as you would expect with a rebuild obviously)
Click to expand...
Haven't checked that for a while. I'll check tomorrow.

neilly said:
As an aside to what you are discussing, How is the turbo pressure build up now? Iirc, you were saying it was very slow originally. Did the replacement turbo fix this issue?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Yes, the replacement turbo transformed the performance. Much more responsive. The first turbo was tricky to spin with your finger. You could give it a good flick, but it would stop in one revolution. The replacement spun far more easily and did a few revolutions before it stopped. Can't get it above 0.9 bar though. So I'm thinking the first one was well dodgy, the second one might be a lot better, but still a bit dodgy!

I've looked at home honing videos on Youtube until I've sickened myself for tonight. It looks like a right haphazard and pot luck affair. Obviously in the videos they don't say that.
I'm going to need to be careful as the last thing I want to do is butcher a perfectly good machining job with a home hone job. How I will ever eventually get to the conclusion that it can be nothing else but the honing, I'm not too sure. :rolleyes:
 
Al2O3 said:
No. It was set and sealed in position when I bought it, so I have to presume it is set up properly. Affected warranty if touched, but it's out of warranty now.
Click to expand...

As you know, depends where you are measuring the pressure.
I have my gauge plugged into the pipe between the turbo and actuator. I get approx 18.5 ~19.5 PSI, :oops:. Spins up very fast.

Cheers
 
neilly said:
As you know, depends where you are measuring the pressure.
I have my gauge plugged into the pipe between the turbo and actuator. I get approx 18.5 ~19.5 PSI, :oops:. Spins up very fast.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Yeah, there's bound to be a pressure drop over the pipework and intercooler. You've got your actuator tweeked though haven't you? As for rate of spin up I've got nothing to compare to as this is the first boost gauge I've had on a vehicle. The boost gauge needle responds faster than when connected to the first turbo, but I've still no idea if it's at an acceptable rate. That said, the Landy pulls well.
 
Al2O3 said:
I doubt it pulls as well as yours :eek: :)
Click to expand...

I suspect you have a little more sympathy with yours, as you spent the time and effort rebuilding it all. Which I can fully understand and appreciate. Where as mine is just a toy to get muddy in.

If I get bored , I may put a turbo gauge on the inlet manifold as well, just for S&Giggles. :D

Cheers
 
neilly said:
I suspect you have a little more sympathy with yours, as you spent the time and effort rebuilding it all. Which I can fully understand and appreciate. Where as mine is just a toy to get muddy in.

If I get bored , I may put a turbo gauge on the inlet manifold as well, just for S&Giggles. :D

Cheers
Click to expand...
Do you mean you're happy to thrash yours? I've given mine a few sound thrashings, but it won't go above 0.9bar (13psi)

It would be interesting to see the difference between the two tapping points.
 
Al2O3 said:
Do you mean you're happy to thrash yours? I've given mine a few sound thrashings, but it won't go above 0.9bar (13psi)
Click to expand...

Yep, sometimes "fawlty towers" style...LOL. Seriously, not so much a thrashing, as a darn good italian tune up. On and off road.

Cheers
 
Well, after a week of being back on the road doing it's usual trip to work and back with the Mrs, the oil was on the bottom level line. :rolleyes: Took 350ml to return it to half way. So, all my glaze busting seems to have been in vain. FFS :(
I think I'll take my time contemplating what to do. It seems such a shame cos it nice and quiet (for a 300 Tdi), smooth and pulls great. She's a pleasure to drive as she pulls away as fast as you need without having to thrash it. I suppose I'll have to accept it's a honing issue. I'm wondering if I should strip it completely and get it done at a machine shop. And not the place I went to last time.:eek: Or, do a home hone.
In the meantime the Mrs reported a wheel wobble so I took it out for a spin tonight. Didn't get very far when, at about 50mph, got a hell of a wobble on nearside. As I've just replaced the pivot bearings I'm presuming I didn't get the preload correct. Bloody useless :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
By the way, this is probably the best picture I've got where you can see the honing marks in one cylinder.
IMG_6059.JPG
 
Such a shame to have to remove the head just to see 'if' its 'glaze' or something else, like a leaky valve seal.

Can you not get one of those small cameras to have a look inside ?
 
windy81 said:
Such a shame to have to remove the head just to see 'if' its 'glaze' or something else, like a leaky valve seal.

Can you not get one of those small cameras to have a look inside ?
Click to expand...

I have got one of those cameras! However, it's not looking like a simple issue of the bores being glazed. It's more looking like a problem with the honing. So, a much bigger PITA
 
I claim no special gifts or experience in engine building but, isn't the engine still running in then perhaps ?

I've just had the lovely experience of running in my new engine and @ 1000miles its still burning oil but i'm hammering the crap out of it whenever i can which is harder than i thought, using the trailer and hills as much as possible. Although still burning oil, but much less so when hot and chuggs away merrily when cold. For a 200tdi i'm not too concerned, but should I at this stage ? I dunno but i do know that when i reach 3k or more id expect the oil burning to be minimal and even less so at 5k. But again it might take 10k, i don't really know yet. Is it a defined range ?

How many miles have you done ?
 
In response to your post, (im bad at doing this) if you did inspect the bores, a leaky valve or whatever would be quite evident i would say with muchos carbon on the piston face ?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
300tdi head gasket failure issues
Replies
2
Views
292
Chris6640
C
ryan_1993
The best 300 tdi coolant
Replies
9
Views
487
Anaconda
A
ryan_1993
1999 300 TDI Land Rover Defender 90 Struggle to Start
Replies
11
Views
559
dag019
dag019
S
Camshaft query
Replies
11
Views
582
Scotty75
S
ryan_1993
Engine loom has melted on my 300 tdi
Replies
18
Views
597
Dippypud
Dippypud
Back
Top