300 Tdi Rebuild

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Actually following your great efforts I was looking on the bay earlier today there was a 300tdi ( missing a FIP ) for £200 not far from me. Was tempted as a little project....:eek:

Cheers
 
neilly said:
Actually following your great efforts I was looking on the bay earlier today there was a 300tdi ( missing a FIP ) for £200 not far from me. Was tempted as a little project....:eek:

Cheers
Click to expand...
Awesome. Go for it. :) Best way to do it, rather than having your Landy off the road.
 
Al2O3 said:
Well, I've listed all of the parts, tools, services and consumables involved in the engine rebuild. ( I might have missed a few items) I remember @neilly asking about it. To save you looking down to the bottom I've spent £1,805 :eek: That said it's probably good value for a reconditioned engine including new water pump, oil rotor, timing belt, clutch and turbo. Plus, a fair bit was spent on the tools required which I will now have for a long time to use on future maintenance. Though, hopefully, I won't need the engine stand for a while :rolleyes:

I recorded the costs in a spreadsheet, but it loses the format copying it in to the website so the column aren't lined up I'm afraid. There are four columns Part Name, unit Cost, No Off, Total Cost.

PART Name COST No Off TOTAL COST
Pistons and Rings £55.80 4 £223.20
Bearing set -Mains £27.00 1 £27.00
Bearing set -Conrods £23.40 1 £23.40
Bearing set camshaft £23.40 1 £23.40
Thrust washer £7.20 1 £7.20
Inlet valve £5.70 4 £22.80
Exhaust valve £5.70 4 £22.80
cylinder head gasket £16.82 1 £16.82
Cylinder head bolts £30.00 1 £30.00
Fuel Injectors £175.00 1 £175.00
valve caps £19.08 1 £19.08
core plug £0.89 6 £5.34
gasket set top (Elring) £42.00 1 £42.00
gasket set bottom (Elring) £50.54 1 £50.54
Rear oil seal £42.30 1 £42.30
Aux Drive Belt £15.05 1 £15.05
Hylomar instant gasket (tube) £11.86 1 £11.86
Clutch kit £128.49 1 £128.49
Oil pump spring £18.17 1 £18.17
Water pump £30.60 1 £30.60
Oil pump rotor kit £30.00 1 £30.00
Timing belt kit £64.99 1 £64.99
rebore, head skim, valve lapping £196.00 1 £196.00
spill pipe kit £23.00 1 £23.00
polyurethene pipe £6.00 1 £6.00
oil filter £5.00 2 £10.00
oil £5.00 12 £60.00
Torque angle gauge £8.99 1 £8.99
Piston ring compressor £6.49 1 £6.49
Piston ring pliers £5.69 1 £5.69
300Tdi Timing tool kit £19.99 1 £19.99
Dial test gauge £15.29 1 £15.29
wire wheels £20.00 1 £20.00
feeler gauges £4.44 1 £4.44
feeler gauges angled £4.94 1 £4.94
autosol £3.99 1 £3.99
viscous fan spanner £7.19 1 £7.19
breaker bar £12.20 1 £12.20
Valve spring compressor £8.39 1 £8.39
27mm impact socket £5.95 1 £5.95
15mm wall drive socket £2.80 1 £2.80
EGR Blanking kit £10.44 1 £10.44
gun gum £3.99 1 £3.99
Beam torque wrench £11.90 1 £11.90
engine block paint £7.99 1 £7.99
Turbo 300Tdi £240.00 1 £240.00
Brake cleaner £13.99 1 £13.99
Brake cleaner applicator £18.88 1 £18.88
engine stand £46.98 1 £46.98
£1,805.56
Click to expand...
Interesting that you have documented all of this so well. It makes you blink when you see the bottom line, but I don't think what you have could be compared with a comercial re con engine. One of the reasons I like to do stuff myself is because I know what's gone into the job and I have the opportunity to avoid any corner cutting, you have an engine which has been re built with care with each problem dealt with in a methodical way. I don't think that even the most reputable companies would go to the lengths which you have done, hope all of this is reflected in the way the engine performs.
 
raywin said:
Interesting that you have documented all of this so well. It makes you blink when you see the bottom line, but I don't think what you have could be compared with a comercial re con engine. One of the reasons I like to do stuff myself is because I know what's gone into the job and I have the opportunity to avoid any corner cutting, you have an engine which has been re built with care with each problem dealt with in a methodical way. I don't think that even the most reputable companies would go to the lengths which you have done, hope all of this is reflected in the way the engine performs.
Click to expand...
The total is a bit of an eye opener, but I think it is ok for what I've got out of it. Probably just trying to justify it to myself, but I say to myself how much would it cost to put it in a garage to get the clutch replaced, or the water pump , or the timing belt? Don't know about comparing it to a commercially re con'd engine. I've tried my best, but I don't think my amateur job can be anywhere near a professional one.
The engine does feel and sound good. Time will tell I suppose. I'm wondering how the head gasket will last. Simply because I've read so many posts where people have replaced the head gasket only for it to go again in two or three hundred miles.
 
Last edited:
Cheers @Saint.V8 this ones on you :D
Guinness.jpg
 
Right chaps, I need some experienced views on this please.
The Landy has done 102 miles since her new start up, so I thought I'd change the oil and filter. Took her for a spin of about 13 miles to warm her up.
When I got back I left her running and lifted the bonnet, took the filler cap of and there was a little bit of mist and a little bit of pressure when you put your hand over the hole. I know you get a small amount of pressure and the engine was very hot, so may explain the mist. What do you reckon?
Giver her some throttle from the FIP while I lent over and looked up the side to see the exhaust. When I throttled her hard there was smoke. Hmmmm........
Changed the oil and filter. Put in Mobil Super 2000 10W 40
Fired her up and got the Mrs to video the exhaust.
So this is from start up, immediately after the oil change with cold engine. I give it some light revs and then harder towards the end of the video.

What do you reckon?
Normal at this point? Not right? I didn't replace the valve guides, but it has new seals.
I didn't video the crankcase pressure at the filler because I don't think you would be able to see or hear it. I think that might be within acceptable limits.
 
Al2O3 said:
Right chaps, I need some experienced views on this please.
The Landy has done 102 miles since her new start up, so I thought I'd change the oil and filter. Took her for a spin of about 13 miles to warm her up.
When I got back I left her running and lifted the bonnet, took the filler cap of and there was a little bit of mist and a little bit of pressure when you put your hand over the hole. I know you get a small amount of pressure and the engine was very hot, so may explain the mist. What do you reckon?
Giver her some throttle from the FIP while I lent over and looked up the side to see the exhaust. When I throttled her hard there was smoke. Hmmmm........
Changed the oil and filter. Put in Mobil Super 2000 10W 40
Fired her up and got the Mrs to video the exhaust.
So this is from start up, immediately after the oil change with cold engine. I give it some light revs and then harder towards the end of the video.

What do you reckon?
Normal at this point? Not right? I didn't replace the valve guides, but it has new seals.
I didn't video the crankcase pressure at the filler because I don't think you would be able to see or hear it. I think that might be within acceptable limits.
Click to expand...
With just about every engine, a bit of mist out of the crankcase breather with engine at operating temperature is perfectly normal. Keep in mind that that breather is designed to exhaust not only traces of blowby from the cylinders, but also the pressure generated by the bottom sides of the pistons on the downward stroke. Rest easy mate, you did a good job with the rebuild.... I'm sure it's nothing to worry about.
 
ifloochies said:
With just about every engine, a bit of mist out of the crankcase breather with engine at operating temperature is perfectly normal. Keep in mind that that breather is designed to exhaust not only traces of blowby from the cylinders, but also the pressure generated by the bottom sides of the pistons on the downward stroke. Rest easy mate, you did a good job with the rebuild.... I'm sure it's nothing to worry about.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reassurance, ifloochies. I'm a little worried about the exhaust smoke. I know I didn't replace the valve guides, but there's new valves in there and new Elring seals on top of them. I would have thought the seals would stop any oil going in to the cylinders, so I would like to know what's generating the smoke. :(
 
ifloochies said:
Is it blue smoke like you're burning oil? Sorry but I haven't as yet watched the video. Sitting in the mother of all traffic jams trying to get home right now.
Click to expand...
Then don't use your phone! :eek:
Watch the vid when you get home. I'd say very light grey. The Mrs reckons white. Please reply later! I don't want you having an accident on my behalf. The smoke mystery can wait.
 
Toonarf said:
I would not worry yet, get some miles on it before you reach for the panic button. As long as fuel oil and water use are within limits all will be good.

David
Click to expand...
Cheers, mate. I'm trying, but I can't help it. After all that work I just want it to be perfect..........you know what I mean. :oops:
 
Al2O3 said:
Right chaps, I need some experienced views on this please.
The Landy has done 102 miles since her new start up, so I thought I'd change the oil and filter. Took her for a spin of about 13 miles to warm her up.
When I got back I left her running and lifted the bonnet, took the filler cap of and there was a little bit of mist and a little bit of pressure when you put your hand over the hole. I know you get a small amount of pressure and the engine was very hot, so may explain the mist. What do you reckon?
Giver her some throttle from the FIP while I lent over and looked up the side to see the exhaust. When I throttled her hard there was smoke. Hmmmm........
Changed the oil and filter. Put in Mobil Super 2000 10W 40
Fired her up and got the Mrs to video the exhaust.
So this is from start up, immediately after the oil change with cold engine. I give it some light revs and then harder towards the end of the video.

What do you reckon?
Normal at this point? Not right? I didn't replace the valve guides, but it has new seals.
I didn't video the crankcase pressure at the filler because I don't think you would be able to see or hear it. I think that might be within acceptable limits.
Click to expand...

rings and bores arent bedded in together yet,needs some work and no idling
 
jamesmartin said:
rings and bores arent bedded in together yet,needs some work and no idling
Click to expand...
Do you think I've changed the oil too soon, James? I'm not bothered because I'll happily change it again in a hundred or two hundred miles.
Does that colour smoke look like oil to you?
 
jamesmartin said:
a bit of oil,you will get more crank case pressure too till they are full bedded in together
Click to expand...
Sounds like good news to me. :)
It's had a pretty hard first 100 miles. Steep hills, accelerated hard all the time, driven fast on the flat open road.
What would you recommend from here? More of the same for another hundred miles, two hundred miles or so? Or, normal driving from now on?

Another thought, it's in for the MOT in the morning. The emissions should be ok?
 
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