300 tdi fires and ticks over but will not rev???????

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jackel280

New Member
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24
Location
COUNTY DURHAM
Hi
Im stuck i have a disco 300 tdi and i broke down with complete loss of power out of the blue, i turned it off and fired it back up and it coughed and splutted but just say ticked over and put out white smoke, now its not cylinder head as no water loss or any water in oil,i thought it was water in the diesel off a bad batch so drained tank and put fresh in, the sediment filter has already been removed, ive also changed the fuel stop solanoid and ive primed fuel for air blocks.

When i leave for a little while it fires great and revs no problem then after a couple of mins it goes back to no revs what so ever foot to the floor and nothing sits at 1000 rpm doesnt try to build up, turn it off and it struggles to start and coughs and splutters and cuts out and struggles to turn over,

Its got me stumped please please help

Many thanks
 
do you think it may be turbo related ?, just with the white smoke, is there lots ??? also i would try another lift pump... are all fuel lines clear , have you checked ? air line through system... did it run ok b4 it packed up or was there some problems ? ie sometimes hard to start when cold or when hot ?
 
Hi yeah was no problem day before as used it on a day out, and turbo seems ok and not sure about fuel lines but i think so and lift pump is pulling fuel thou, and ive bleed from the return pipe and injecter pipes, it has got my head battered as was no hint of a problem
 
i would still check fuel lines , they do rust and cause blockage. lift pump can seem like its doing the job , but fail under load " is it a britpart one" ? for the piece of mind and the price i would fit a new one , it could be dragging in air which would also cause smoke. check all injector leak off pipes for leaks. you did put fuel lines back on the right way ?Also i would have it tested for a head gasket, to rule it out , gas leak detector on the expansion tank .... also check intercooler pipes they can also collapse . plenty to go at. also when did it last have a cambelt kit , has it jumped a tooth ?? its one of those jobs where you have to check and double check to rule everything out.
 
Last edited:
i would start with a new fuel filter, then fit some clear pipe from filter to IP to check for air bubbles
 
fuel filter changed also did housing of it too incase bleed screw was not sealing, lift up has alot of pressure on TDC, intercooler pipe changed at a rip off price :(
 
timing belt done 10,000 mile ago and upgraded pulleys too, when its left it fires with one turn of the key and runs fine ticking and reving then it goes all to pot :(
 
jackel280 said:
Hi
Im stuck i have a disco 300 tdi and i broke down with complete loss of power out of the blue, i turned it off and fired it back up and it coughed and splutted but just say ticked over and put out white smoke, now its not cylinder head as no water loss or any water in oil,i thought it was water in the diesel off a bad batch so drained tank and put fresh in, the sediment filter has already been removed, ive also changed the fuel stop solanoid and ive primed fuel for air blocks.

When i leave for a little while it fires great and revs no problem then after a couple of mins it goes back to no revs what so ever foot to the floor and nothing sits at 1000 rpm doesnt try to build up, turn it off and it struggles to start and coughs and splutters and cuts out and struggles to turn over,

Its got me stumped please please help

Many thanks
Click to expand...


What year is it and is it manual or auto box?
 
not lift pump as ive checked fuel feed this morning from lift pump too filter and it feeds then ive checked feed from pump to injecters and it feeds to there too :(((( still not running after bleeding again

its a 95 n reg auto drive by wire if that makes a difference
 
jackel280 said:
not lift pump as ive checked fuel feed this morning from lift pump too filter and it feeds then ive checked feed from pump to injecters and it feeds to there too :(((( still not running after bleeding again

its a 95 n reg auto drive by wire if that makes a difference
Click to expand...


It absolutely does make a difference. Your car has a wire throttle pedal with a potentiometer (pot), rather than a cable. The pot feeds signals to an ECU which controls fuelling. If the pot is working correctly, there are no signals to the ECU to raise the revs.

The fact that it starts and ticks over would be characteristic of a faulty pot as would the erratic functioning.

That's where I would be putting my money - electrical fault relating to the throttle pedal, bugger potentiometer/chafed wiring/bad contact on the injection pump/bad contact on the ECU.

Locate the throttle pedal pot & wiring, unplug the connector a few times and spray switch cleaner on the contacts. Ditto for the other electrical connectors.

Good luck

Dave
Ps Some peeps have had good luck taking the pot apart, cleaning the tracks and reinstalling.
 
could this happen out of the blue as was ok one day then next broke down, reving was abit up and down when travelling as in revs would drop slightly when sitting at 60 like it would drop about 100 revs something i would notice when i was driving but not passengers :( i dont know wot you mean by pot where would i look and find this ???
 
jackel280 said:
could this happen out of the blue as was ok one day then next broke down, revving was a bit up and down when travelling as in revs would drop slightly when sitting at 60 like it would drop about 100 revs something i would notice when i was driving but not passengers :( i don't know what you mean by pot where would i look and find this ???
Click to expand...

If you re-read my post you will see that pot is short for potentiometer and is the electrical component the converts the throttle pedal movements into electrical signals for the ECU.

Like a lot of electrical faults on all equipment, they can be erratic.

Your revs at 55-60mph might well vary due to the torque converter in the auto gearbox and the amount of throttle you give the car.
 
Hi i did read it but still dont know where i would find this can you find me a diagram on this as ive looked in haynes and cant see anything on the potentiometer of the car ive never heard of this before at all and how all this works :(
 
jackel280 said:
not lift pump as ive checked fuel feed this morning from lift pump too filter and it feeds then ive checked feed from pump to injecters and it feeds to there too :(((( still not running after bleeding again

its a 95 n reg auto drive by wire if that makes a difference
Click to expand...

now he tells us its drive by wire , er yes that makes a big difference ....:rolleyes:
 
jackel280 said:
Hi i did read it but still dont know where i would find this can you find me a diagram on this as ive looked in haynes and cant see anything on the potentiometer of the car ive never heard of this before at all and how all this works :(
Click to expand...


What I would suggest you do, is a Google search for Rave 3 Land Rover Discovery workshop manual - then you'll know all there is to know about your vehicle.
 
torque converter should lock up at 50mph.

the "pot" is probably a variable resister like the volume control on the radio, its on the throttle pedel and turns as you push the pedel down.

I would still put some clear pipe from the fuel filter to the injection pump as you will be well ****ed off to spend hours on the pot just to find its air in the fuel lines.
 
If it is not the 'pot', you could be sucking air in from the tank.

The fuel lines can rot and air enters the system, easiest to see with a bit of clear pipe put in a fuel run.
 
i still cant find info this "pot" i understand how it works but i cant find what im supposed to be looking at or for i may sound thick at this but have never had to deal with this sort of thing and dont even know wot im looking for under the bonnet only diagram in hayneds about this just show goes into the edu ( if thats what its called) but only in picture form
 
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