300 Tdi es statin and runnin probs

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duffdef

New Member
Posts
76
Location
Duffield, Derby
First of all appologies if this is a repeat topic, i have looked through the last few pages and haven't found anything similar.

Now then i've been using 200 tdi disco's and my mates got a 300 tdi, first of all is the 300 normally less torqey and more horse power than the 200? It struggles like anything to pull off unless trubo's spooled up. My initial thoughts are that something is wrong but just wanted people to confirm that's not normal.

Now the real problem which is probably linked to the above is it's lack of willingness to start. Basically it takes around 2 mins of turning over before it will fire up and once it does you have to keep the accel down on the floor or it will stall. I have replaced all glow plugs and there's a good clean 12v to each one on ignition turning on. One thing i did notice is that 2 of the plugs were coated in thick oil and 2 were dry.

Once it's running there's no power at all until turbo spools (you really can't pull off up hill without revving to 2500rpm before lifting the clutch)

it's of normal power with the turbo spun up, temp gauge never gets warm until on the dual carriage way and will drop to just above cold on 30mph roads. Mpg is around 20, and it does smoke a lot more than my landy's.

I'm very confident that there is something/s wrong here and it's not that fact that it's a 300tdi lol, just wanted to ask at the start if there is any difference between the two at all, so any good ideas on what it may be?

Thanks:)
 
Sorry for the poor spelling in the title and description, thought i had checked it :D

So, I'm assuming that it's a Disco Tdi 300, but you don't say what year it is and what gearboxit's got, manual or auto. It helps to know this to start to diagnose what's wrong.
 
sorry, it's a 1995 disco 300 tdi es manual

Ok Duffdef, now we can start the process.

First let's look at starting. I'll list a few things that come to mind so you can you them as a checklist:

1. In any diesel engine bad running situation the first port of call is always put in a new air filter. Filter kits (air, oil & fuel) are available from Paddock Spares - Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander for Tdi 300 for about £9 inc vat so as cheap as chips, bung a new one in.

2. Next, does the engine turn over at what sounds like normal speed or is it laboured? If it turns ok, then maybe you ought to try checking the glowplugs to make sure they are actually heating up. To do this, take one out at a time, leaving it connected electrically and let it rest on the engine block. Get someone turn the ignition to the position that the heater plugs work (normally referred to as position 2 on the ignition switch I believe).

They should glow red hot - if they don't, get hold of a multimeter and check if there's current going to them. If there's current but no red hot, you need new ones, they're about £3 a piece on special offer from the same place.

3. That should get it starting. Now as for the general running there are really only two main areas to look at: Is it getting enough forced (turbo-charged) air & is it getting enough fuel.

Re air - start by checking all the air tubing starting from the air filter box, going down to the turbo, on from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the main inlet manifold.

What you are looking for are any signs of leaks or deterioration of the tubing. The rubber elbows can delaminate inside and reduce efficiency so check their condition carefully.

Once you are satisfied with the air side of things, check for a good fuel supply. First thing would be to put in a new fuel filter, prefilled with diesel (it makes it easier this way) so that you can eliminate that.

Next check the fuel sedimentor for blockages. This is a filter-looking device towards the rear of the car fixed to the inside of the chassis rails. There is a plastic turnbuckle on the bottom, if?? you can get this undone without breaking it (amazing!!) collect a small quantity of the liquid that comes out and has a look at it and smell it, is it just disel or contaminated with muck or water?

I don't want to go too far until you done this stuff first, because your problems may well be eliminated after doing the above.

Cheers for now and let us know how you get on.

Dave
 
ok, thank you for the advice, going in for opperation next week, hopefully i'll try ang get these things done before then but if not then over the next couple of weeks. Cheers, Mark
 
Ok Duffdef, now we can start the process.

First let's look at starting. I'll list a few things that come to mind so you can you them as a checklist:

1. In any diesel engine bad running situation the first port of call is always put in a new air filter. Filter kits (air, oil & fuel) are available from Paddock Spares - Land Rover, Range Rover Parts & Accessories - Discovery, Defender and Freelander for Tdi 300 for about £9 inc vat so as cheap as chips, bung a new one in.

2. Next, does the engine turn over at what sounds like normal speed or is it laboured? If it turns ok, then maybe you ought to try checking the glowplugs to make sure they are actually heating up. To do this, take one out at a time, leaving it connected electrically and let it rest on the engine block. Get someone turn the ignition to the position that the heater plugs work (normally referred to as position 2 on the ignition switch I believe).

They should glow red hot - if they don't, get hold of a multimeter and check if there's current going to them. If there's current but no red hot, you need new ones, they're about £3 a piece on special offer from the same place.

3. That should get it starting. Now as for the general running there are really only two main areas to look at: Is it getting enough forced (turbo-charged) air & is it getting enough fuel.

Re air - start by checking all the air tubing starting from the air filter box, going down to the turbo, on from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the main inlet manifold.

What you are looking for are any signs of leaks or deterioration of the tubing. The rubber elbows can delaminate inside and reduce efficiency so check their condition carefully.

Once you are satisfied with the air side of things, check for a good fuel supply. First thing would be to put in a new fuel filter, prefilled with diesel (it makes it easier this way) so that you can eliminate that.

Next check the fuel sedimentor for blockages. This is a filter-looking device towards the rear of the car fixed to the inside of the chassis rails. There is a plastic turnbuckle on the bottom, if?? you can get this undone without breaking it (amazing!!) collect a small quantity of the liquid that comes out and has a look at it and smell it, is it just disel or contaminated with muck or water?

I don't want to go too far until you done this stuff first, because your problems may well be eliminated after doing the above.

Cheers for now and let us know how you get on.

Dave

Wonder biglad if some bastids taken the thermostat out because the head gaskets gone, and that's why its running cold and like a bag of ****e.
 
ok, thank you for the advice, going in for opperation next week, hopefully i'll try ang get these things done before then but if not then over the next couple of weeks. Cheers, Mark

Hi Mark, hope everything goes well next week on your op.

If you don't get much time before then, not to worry, together we'll get her running right.

I've a 200 & 300 and they're both nice cars for different reasons.

I find that the 200 has better bottom-end power but the 300 is more comfortable, is an auto so different anyway and a better higher speed cruiser. Plus it's newer with a lot less rust !!!

Take care mate,

Cheers
Dave
 
Thanks, It has progressively got worse over the last 6 months. Just got to do a few bits to the def today ready for it's MOT tomoz, hopefully i'll have a bit of time after to look at this 300. Thanks, again for the help and advice, much appreciate it
 
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