200TDi Temperature - too hot?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
J

Jon

Guest
Out of interest how hot does your 200TDi run when running at 70mph,
i.e. Motorway driving?

Mine is a 1992 90 hard top, stock 200TDi with 235x85 BFG AT rubbers.
On flatish ground it will happily trundle along at 70 - 75mph (80mph
on a Long road) BUT the temperature needle rises from vertical (normal
running temp) and seems to stop at the end of the white bit,
importantly before it gets to the red!

Question is - IS this normal or is my radiator efficiancy begining to
fall (some of the vains are missing or have flies lodged in them!)?
Could it be anything else? Do radiators silt up inside over time,
requiring a wash out?

On a similar note, I am thinking of a bigger intercooler (Alisport /
twisted performance type) that will sit in front of the radiator but
will this inhibit the radiators performance further???

By the way i live and drive in the UK, not somewhere hot like Greece!

Any thoughts / comments appreciated.

Jon

 
Jon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:eek:[email protected]:

> Out of interest how hot does your 200TDi run when running
> at 70mph, i.e. Motorway driving?
>
> Mine is a 1992 90 hard top, stock 200TDi with 235x85 BFG AT
> rubbers. On flatish ground it will happily trundle along at
> 70 - 75mph (80mph on a Long road) BUT the temperature
> needle rises from vertical (normal running temp) and seems
> to stop at the end of the white bit, importantly before it
> gets to the red!
>
> Question is - IS this normal or is my radiator efficiancy
> begining to fall (some of the vains are missing or have
> flies lodged in them!)? Could it be anything else? Do
> radiators silt up inside over time, requiring a wash out?
>
> On a similar note, I am thinking of a bigger intercooler
> (Alisport / twisted performance type) that will sit in
> front of the radiator but will this inhibit the radiators
> performance further???
>
> By the way i live and drive in the UK, not somewhere hot
> like Greece!
>
> Any thoughts / comments appreciated.
>
> Jon
>

Did anyone suggest that it may just be your gauge that is not
indicating correctly?

There used to be a temperature gauge on the old Peugeot 504
trucks. Then Peugeot removed them on the later models!
My guru at Arnold Clark (Ian at Inverness) said they took it out
because owners got unduly concerned when it recorded an
inaccurate high reading!

Just a thought. If your 200Tdi over heats, there would surely be
steam issuing from an expansion valve somewhere?? Or coolant
loss (head gasket)??

Derry
 

Thanks for the reply:

>Radiators do silt up over time, which is why you're supposed to back-flush
>them at the 12,000 mile service.

... better do this, she's done 143k miles and I know it hasnt been done
in the last 6k miles cos those are the ones ive done!


>- Thermostat. If this is on it's way out, it might not be operating
>correctly. As they're only a few quid from Halfords, suggest you simply
>change yours and see if it makes a difference.

good point.

>
>- Electrical earth. My engine temperature used to suddenly rise whenever I
>put the brakes on. Only after weeks of fault-hunting did I discovered that a
>bad earth was behind it [the brake lights, of course, come on when you hit
>the brakes...].

I'd be fairly confident my earths are all OK, one of the things i had
to do over christmas was replace both main earth straps. All other
electrics are now OK.

>
>An additional radiator in front of your existing one, whether it be an
>intercooler or for air conditioning, will inevitably affect the cooling
>performance. However, given that Land Rover themselves quite happily
>installed an air aconditioning radiator in this location, I wouldn't have
>thought it would be a problem assuming everything else is working correctly.

...Hadnt thought of this.


>

>--> Greg
>
>"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:eek:[email protected]...
>> Out of interest how hot does your 200TDi run when running at 70mph,
>> i.e. Motorway driving?
>>
>> Mine is a 1992 90 hard top, stock 200TDi with 235x85 BFG AT rubbers.
>> On flatish ground it will happily trundle along at 70 - 75mph (80mph
>> on a Long road) BUT the temperature needle rises from vertical (normal
>> running temp) and seems to stop at the end of the white bit,
>> importantly before it gets to the red!
>>
>> Question is - IS this normal or is my radiator efficiancy begining to
>> fall (some of the vains are missing or have flies lodged in them!)?
>> Could it be anything else? Do radiators silt up inside over time,
>> requiring a wash out?
>>
>> On a similar note, I am thinking of a bigger intercooler (Alisport /
>> twisted performance type) that will sit in front of the radiator but
>> will this inhibit the radiators performance further???
>>
>> By the way i live and drive in the UK, not somewhere hot like Greece!
>>
>> Any thoughts / comments appreciated.
>>
>> Jon
>>
>

 
Hi Jon,

> Out of interest how hot does your 200TDi run when running at 70mph,
> i.e. Motorway driving?

I've a 92 110 200tdi with a roofrack. (I don't get to 70 unless theres
a downhill and a tailwind)
I usually cruse at about 60-65 and the temp sits at somewhere between
1/3 and 1/2. This is in 30 degrees with NO fan (my bodge broke again
and I'm driving about without a fan again. Soon to be fixed - honest)

I take anything over half way on my gauge to be the beginnings of it
overheating and let it cool down - but then again I don't know that
the gauges are that accurate.

In my experience, the 200tdi doesn't over heat unless you start
climbing some BIG hills (or your fan doesn't work)
Sounds like yours runs a bit hotter than mine.

Have you checked that the thermostat is opening? Are the pipes to the
radiator hot after a run?
When hot, do you have any cool spots on the radiator?
Is the fan VC locked when hot?
Flushing the rad would do no harm and you see what comes out.

Is there coolant in it? Is there a fan belt round the pump? ;->

As for the intercooler, I've read that they do reduce the cooling
ability a bit. I'm sure someone with experience will be along soon to
tell you. I wouldn't fancy fitting one though till I was sure of the
existing setup.


HTH,
Gromit
 

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eek:[email protected]...
> Out of interest how hot does your 200TDi run when running at 70mph,
> i.e. Motorway driving?
>
> Mine is a 1992 90 hard top, stock 200TDi with 235x85 BFG AT rubbers.
> On flatish ground it will happily trundle along at 70 - 75mph (80mph
> on a Long road) BUT the temperature needle rises from vertical (normal
> running temp) and seems to stop at the end of the white bit,
> importantly before it gets to the red!
>
> Question is - IS this normal or is my radiator efficiancy begining to
> fall (some of the vains are missing or have flies lodged in them!)?
> Could it be anything else? Do radiators silt up inside over time,
> requiring a wash out?
>
> On a similar note, I am thinking of a bigger intercooler (Alisport /
> twisted performance type) that will sit in front of the radiator but
> will this inhibit the radiators performance further???
>
> By the way i live and drive in the UK, not somewhere hot like Greece!
>
> Any thoughts / comments appreciated.

One thought, check the thin fins between the main tubes of the radiator.
I've seen them with empty space between the tubes that causes them to over
heat at speed on the motorway.
--
Jon


 
The other night i checked the earth straps again (OK) & pressure
washed the radiator till it sparkels... Well theres no mud in now
anyway! No difference to 60 - 65mph+ tempereature.

Finally got round to changing thermostat for a new one tonight - didnt
make the slightest difference either!

So...
Radiator buggered?
Water pump not pumping?
Sender unit duff?

When the vehicle has been running and the temperature is above normal
the top couple of inches of the radiator are *hot*, the remainder luke
warm with no apparent hot or cold spots - doesnt this suggest that the
radiator is actually working? I did however forget to check if the
bottom hose was hot, warm or cold - will try this tomorrow.

Water pump - Im guessing this is OK too as the radiator and top hose
are getting hot.

Sender unit????? Do these things often go wrong? Can they be checked
or is it like the thermostat, just chuck another one in?

I did have another thought - Head gasket. I have dismissed this though
cos the header tank isnt getting pressurised to the point where its
blowing water out, nor are there any signs of oil in the water / water
in the oil.


Any other thoughts cos I'm running out of them!?

Thanks
Jon




On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 16:06:20 +0100, "Paul - xxx"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Jon typed:
>
>> Firstly I had a look at the radiator last night and probably 10 - 15%
>> of the tinf fins are missing / squashed up with flies etc - suspect
>> this is not good?
>
>Nope. Compressed air from other side blowing out the accumulated crud is a
>good idea .. but wear goggles, seriously.
>
>> For the sake of £5 maybe i should just buy
>> another and have done with it?
>
>Yup. ;)

 
Jon wrote:
>
> When the vehicle has been running and the temperature is above normal
> the top couple of inches of the radiator are *hot*, the remainder luke
> warm with no apparent hot or cold spots - doesnt this suggest that the
> radiator is actually working? I did however forget to check if the
> bottom hose was hot, warm or cold - will try this tomorrow.

It's not circulating it's water properly. 2 most likely causes are the
radiator being blocked internally, or the water pump not pumping because
the impeller is loose, fallen off, or eaten away by electrolysis.

I'd be pulling the hoses off the radiaor and back flushing it (ie hose
in the bottom) with a goodly flow of water to see how much actually
passes thru, and also what crap gets washed out.

I'd check the water pump by taking the thermostat out, removing the top
radiator hose and filling it with water as far as possible. The start
it up - it should pump a *lot* of water out the top hose if you give it
a gentle rev.


--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 
Jon <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Any other thoughts cos I'm running out of them!?

I did mention this before but notice it is not on your list. As
a surveyor, when everything else checks out, I'd check that the
tape measure had not stretched! (It happens more often than
you'd think).

In other words, if your temperature gauge shows too hot, are you
sure it isn't just showing an incorrect temperature? Maybe you
could get a spare from somewhere and just try swopping it.

Derry
 
When the engine is hot (hotter than it should be) how hot should the
radiator be? Hot to touch or just warm? Also, should it be hot all
over it or shoulf it get progressivly cooler towards the bottom?

will check the water pump at the weekend.

On Thu, 29 Jul 2004 10:19:08 +1200, EMB <[email protected]> wrote:

>Jon wrote:
>>
>> When the vehicle has been running and the temperature is above normal
>> the top couple of inches of the radiator are *hot*, the remainder luke
>> warm with no apparent hot or cold spots - doesnt this suggest that the
>> radiator is actually working? I did however forget to check if the
>> bottom hose was hot, warm or cold - will try this tomorrow.
>
>It's not circulating it's water properly. 2 most likely causes are the
>radiator being blocked internally, or the water pump not pumping because
>the impeller is loose, fallen off, or eaten away by electrolysis.
>
>I'd be pulling the hoses off the radiaor and back flushing it (ie hose
>in the bottom) with a goodly flow of water to see how much actually
>passes thru, and also what crap gets washed out.
>
>I'd check the water pump by taking the thermostat out, removing the top
>radiator hose and filling it with water as far as possible. The start
>it up - it should pump a *lot* of water out the top hose if you give it
>a gentle rev.

 
My 200tdi Disco started running hotter than it used to i.e. it was operating
normaly at 50% of the guage but would go up to 75% when working hard, on
inspection the viscous fan was extremely slack at all temps, even cold it
would spin freely, so I replaced it & lo & behold its back to normal
operating beetween 25% & 50% even towing a trailer up & down the hills of
north wales.
So worth a try give the fan a spin cos there should be some resistance even
when cold.

Chris
1990 200Tdi Disco


 
Jon wrote:
> When the engine is hot (hotter than it should be) how hot should the
> radiator be? Hot to touch or just warm? Also, should it be hot all
> over it or shoulf it get progressivly cooler towards the bottom?

Top of radiator should be bloody hot (ie you won't want to touch it for
long). Bottom of radiator should be significantly cooler, but still
more than "warm". A quick test on my Hilux with an IR thermometer shows
a 27 deg C drop from top to bottom - don't take this as definitive, I've
just been out in my driveway in my dressing gown checking it for you.

--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 
Jon wrote:
>
> When the vehicle has been running and the temperature is above normal
> the top couple of inches of the radiator are *hot*, the remainder luke
> warm with no apparent hot or cold spots - doesnt this suggest that the
> radiator is actually working? I did however forget to check if the
> bottom hose was hot, warm or cold - will try this tomorrow.

It's not circulating it's water properly. 2 most likely causes are the
radiator being blocked internally, or the water pump not pumping because
the impeller is loose, fallen off, or eaten away by electrolysis.

I'd be pulling the hoses off the radiaor and back flushing it (ie hose
in the bottom) with a goodly flow of water to see how much actually
passes thru, and also what crap gets washed out.

I'd check the water pump by taking the thermostat out, removing the top
radiator hose and filling it with water as far as possible. The start
it up - it should pump a *lot* of water out the top hose if you give it
a gentle rev.


--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 
My 200tdi Disco started running hotter than it used to i.e. it was operating
normaly at 50% of the guage but would go up to 75% when working hard, on
inspection the viscous fan was extremely slack at all temps, even cold it
would spin freely, so I replaced it & lo & behold its back to normal
operating beetween 25% & 50% even towing a trailer up & down the hills of
north wales.
So worth a try give the fan a spin cos there should be some resistance even
when cold.

Chris
1990 200Tdi Disco


 
Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
owning up!!! Breaks me heart.

--
Amateur Radio Call Sign M1BTI, Located in IO-83-TK, Manchester. England.
Chairman of Trafford Radio Group, G0TRG/M1BBP Located at UMIST, Manchester.
 
OK, got the thing hot again and had a look under the bonnet to see if
i could see any noticable speed diference on the fan when i revv'ed it
up... No such look, it looked to be just spinning regardless of rev's
so I got a garden cane and poked it to feel if there was any
resistance - NONE at all.

New viscous coupling has arrived today so i'll put it on tonight and
see if it helps.

Thanks
Jon


On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:48:40 +0100, Dave Piggin <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
>inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
>MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
>temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
>too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
>of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
>with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
>sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
>my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
>owning up!!! Breaks me heart.

 
Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
owning up!!! Breaks me heart.

--
Amateur Radio Call Sign M1BTI, Located in IO-83-TK, Manchester. England.
Chairman of Trafford Radio Group, G0TRG/M1BBP Located at UMIST, Manchester.
 
OK, replaced the viscous unit last night and it now blows a gale over
the engine when I rev it up.

However... Temp guage is still reading too high on longer runs when
travelling at speed.

As a last ditch attempt before getting a re-corred rad, what are the
thoughts on using Radflush or something similar on a 12 year old
radiator? Good idea or bad? Kill or cure time I am thinking?


thanks
jon


On Thu, 05 Aug 2004 15:15:59 +0100, Jon
<[email protected]> wrote:

>OK, got the thing hot again and had a look under the bonnet to see if
>i could see any noticable speed diference on the fan when i revv'ed it
>up... No such look, it looked to be just spinning regardless of rev's
>so I got a garden cane and poked it to feel if there was any
>resistance - NONE at all.
>
>New viscous coupling has arrived today so i'll put it on tonight and
>see if it helps.
>
>Thanks
>Jon
>
>
>On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:48:40 +0100, Dave Piggin <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
>>inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
>>MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
>>temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
>>too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
>>of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
>>with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
>>sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
>>my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
>>owning up!!! Breaks me heart.

 
Try a reverse flush by all means, but it didn't work for me.

It depends how clagged up the radiator is inside - but don't forget to
check the outside clag as well.

When I had this problem I got an exchange radiator from a local firm for
about £110 fitted

In message <[email protected]>, Jon
<[email protected]> writes
>OK, replaced the viscous unit last night and it now blows a gale over
>the engine when I rev it up.
>
>However... Temp guage is still reading too high on longer runs when
>travelling at speed.
>
>As a last ditch attempt before getting a re-corred rad, what are the
>thoughts on using Radflush or something similar on a 12 year old
>radiator? Good idea or bad? Kill or cure time I am thinking?
>
>
>thanks
>jon
>
>
>On Thu, 05 Aug 2004 15:15:59 +0100, Jon
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>OK, got the thing hot again and had a look under the bonnet to see if
>>i could see any noticable speed diference on the fan when i revv'ed it
>>up... No such look, it looked to be just spinning regardless of rev's
>>so I got a garden cane and poked it to feel if there was any
>>resistance - NONE at all.
>>
>>New viscous coupling has arrived today so i'll put it on tonight and
>>see if it helps.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Jon
>>
>>
>>On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:48:40 +0100, Dave Piggin <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
>>>inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
>>>MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
>>>temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
>>>too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
>>>of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
>>>with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
>>>sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
>>>my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
>>>owning up!!! Breaks me heart.
>

--
Al Stevenson

 
Had the radiator out yesterday after running the rad flush through it
because upon closer inspection (with cowling etc off) I found that I
onlty have about 15% of the fins intact!!!

The front face of the rad is more or less OK (about 8" of fins missing
over the whole area). From the rear though just about ALL of the fins
from the inner 3 vains are MISSIGNG - That'd do it then!

So, now I know why she istnt cooling and that I need a recore.

Question - How on earth could all those fins be missing and yet the
front ones more or less OK???

Thanks for all the help on this one - Got there in the end. I'll
arrange a recore rad today and get it on intime for the weekend (muddy
play time).

Jon



On Sat, 7 Aug 2004 16:11:06 +0100, Al Stevenson <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Try a reverse flush by all means, but it didn't work for me.
>
>It depends how clagged up the radiator is inside - but don't forget to
>check the outside clag as well.
>
>When I had this problem I got an exchange radiator from a local firm for
>about £110 fitted
>
>In message <[email protected]>, Jon
><[email protected]> writes
>>OK, replaced the viscous unit last night and it now blows a gale over
>>the engine when I rev it up.
>>
>>However... Temp guage is still reading too high on longer runs when
>>travelling at speed.
>>
>>As a last ditch attempt before getting a re-corred rad, what are the
>>thoughts on using Radflush or something similar on a 12 year old
>>radiator? Good idea or bad? Kill or cure time I am thinking?
>>
>>
>>thanks
>>jon
>>
>>
>>On Thu, 05 Aug 2004 15:15:59 +0100, Jon
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>OK, got the thing hot again and had a look under the bonnet to see if
>>>i could see any noticable speed diference on the fan when i revv'ed it
>>>up... No such look, it looked to be just spinning regardless of rev's
>>>so I got a garden cane and poked it to feel if there was any
>>>resistance - NONE at all.
>>>
>>>New viscous coupling has arrived today so i'll put it on tonight and
>>>see if it helps.
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Jon
>>>
>>>
>>>On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:48:40 +0100, Dave Piggin <[email protected]>
>>>wrote:
>>>
>>>>Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
>>>>inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
>>>>MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
>>>>temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
>>>>too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
>>>>of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
>>>>with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
>>>>sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
>>>>my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
>>>>owning up!!! Breaks me heart.
>>

 
Try a reverse flush by all means, but it didn't work for me.

It depends how clagged up the radiator is inside - but don't forget to
check the outside clag as well.

When I had this problem I got an exchange radiator from a local firm for
about £110 fitted

In message <[email protected]>, Jon
<[email protected]> writes
>OK, replaced the viscous unit last night and it now blows a gale over
>the engine when I rev it up.
>
>However... Temp guage is still reading too high on longer runs when
>travelling at speed.
>
>As a last ditch attempt before getting a re-corred rad, what are the
>thoughts on using Radflush or something similar on a 12 year old
>radiator? Good idea or bad? Kill or cure time I am thinking?
>
>
>thanks
>jon
>
>
>On Thu, 05 Aug 2004 15:15:59 +0100, Jon
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>OK, got the thing hot again and had a look under the bonnet to see if
>>i could see any noticable speed diference on the fan when i revv'ed it
>>up... No such look, it looked to be just spinning regardless of rev's
>>so I got a garden cane and poked it to feel if there was any
>>resistance - NONE at all.
>>
>>New viscous coupling has arrived today so i'll put it on tonight and
>>see if it helps.
>>
>>Thanks
>>Jon
>>
>>
>>On Mon, 2 Aug 2004 16:48:40 +0100, Dave Piggin <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>Try back flushing the radiator and line. If it's turbo'd flush out the
>>>inter cooler. If you've been off road thats where your problems started
>>>MUD. Have you checked the thermastat is opening at the right
>>>temperature? or atall. Check out the sender while your heads in there
>>>too. When I had my 110 CSW the temp needle always sat dead in the middle
>>>of the gauge but there again I was lucky and had an excellent engine
>>>with no problems in 11 years since new, 200 series 122,000 miles when
>>>sold. The best machanical engine ever made. Dave. PS Although I've seen
>>>my old lanie in Manchester I still don,t know who's got it, any one
>>>owning up!!! Breaks me heart.
>

--
Al Stevenson

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Birdbrain
200tdi Defender thermostat
Replies
1
Views
2K
miktdish
miktdish
cappers
Temp gauge reads hot when lights switched on....?
Replies
7
Views
2K
Rougharse Racing
Rougharse Racing
T
200tdi temp gauge woes
Replies
16
Views
4K
Seaswood
Seaswood
D
Temperature gauge sensor
Replies
0
Views
685
davesh
D
Nodge68
Freelander 2 (LR2) LR trouble codes.
Replies
6
Views
38K
Keith Kernow Kernewick
Keith Kernow Kernewick
Back
Top