200tdi stem seals

hi
any1 know if there a thread on how to change stem seals on a 200tdi? have had look but cant find 1


:violent:

It's well covered in the Haynes manual and workshop manual.

you can either remove head or do 4 at a time by turning engine to tdc on 2 pistons and removing springs then as there is very little clearance between piston top and valve you can tell tdc when two rockers are on the rock when both are open at same time 1 opening other closing, no1 and 4 then no2 and 3 cylinders

jamesmartin said:

you can either remove head or do 4 at a time by turning engine to tdc on 2 pistons and removing springs then as there is very little clearance between piston top and valve you can tell tdc when two rockers are on the rock when both are open at same time 1 opening other closing, no1 and 4 then no2 and 3 cylinders

Click to expand...

Blimey ... that's a hell of a lot for one sentence! ... breathless now

It's an extremely simple job and you only need a few basic tools. You will need to buy yourself an overhead valve spring compressor like this (which allows you to 'drop' the valves without removing the cylinder head): Valve Spring Compressor OHV Sealey VS160 (or search ebay / google for the Sealey VS160 if you want to get it a little cheaper).

1) Disconnect the breather pipes from the cyclone breather unit on the rocker cover.
2) Remove 3x 8mm / 10mm rocker cover bolts.
3) Remove 4x glow plugs (not completely necessary).
4) Turn engine over clockwise until valves on no. 1 cylinder are rocking.
5) Insert a tie wrap / kebab skewer into no.1 glow plug hole and ensure piston is at top.
6) Progressively slacken 3x 13mm and 2 x 8mm / 10mm rocker shaft bolts.
7) Remove rocker shaft.
8) Remove valve stem caps from inlet / exhaust valves on no.1 & no.4 cylinder.
9) Fit spring compressor to exhaust valve spring on no.1 cylinder and clamp down to compress spring.
10) Use magnet to extract 2x collet halves (tricky, they have 3 ribs and are magnetic).
11) Release and remove spring compressor.
12) Remove spring and top / bottom retainers.
13) Remove old valve guide seal with pliers (firm grip and pull hard).
14) Clean valve guide seal mating lip.
15) Tap on new valve guide oil seal with 13mm socket until sat flat all around.
16) Re-position valve spring and compress.
17) Insert collets and release spring compressor.
18) Re-fit valve stem cap.

Repeat procedure for inlet valve on no.1 cylinder and then move immeidately to no.4 cylinder (piston will be a top) and repeat for both valves. Re-fit rocker shaft and turn engine over until no.2 cylinder valves are rocking and then proceed to remove valve springs on both no.2 and no.3 cylinders.

Also with regards to the over head valve spring compressor, note that where the two lengths of bar meet the metal disc at the end of the tool, and where they join the top part of the adjuster, gave way under the strain. They were only glued in (don't ask why!) so I welded across the joins and ground the pool down to ensure that they more suited to the job.

Hope this helps
-Tom

personally i would always drop the head off that way you can check the valves (and lap them in again) clean the head out and check for damage, also you can check for bore wear and check the pistons as its an OHV head its a pretty easy job

^^^^^ What he said.

just a quick one guys, this fix, replace the steam seals, is to fix the smoking on start up, if you get blue smoke, is that correct?

[JP];1361478 said:

just a quick one guys, this fix, replace the steam seals, is to fix the smoking on start up, if you get blue smoke, is that correct?

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Yep, stops oil dripping down into the cylinders when you park it up overnight etc

will it stop oil getting into inlet manifold at all as its in there and my breather and turbo all good. ??