200tdi ladder frame removal

Good progress today sump refitted, cylinder head refitted rockers and tappets done , refitted injection pipes and spill rail, fitted lift pump and resealed side plate.
Angle tightening the cylinder head bolts was pretty scary heck of a lot of tension on them.
Also made a wooden bush to fit the crank oil seal and put engine oil in.
Timing case front cover oil seal as this is to keep water out is it fitted opposite way to the others which are keeping the oil out of timing case?

Fitted flywheel housing and flywheel on Friday and then fitted new timing belt and boxed it all up ready to refit to Landrover this morning .Started at 10am engine mated to gearbox by 10:45am took another 1hr to get the front driver side engine mount bolts in. Worked on till 15:30 and have connected diesel fitted manifolds ,accelerator cable, clutch slave ,capstan winch drive ,exhaust , heater hoses starter motor , alternator and all associated wiring.
Sunday Rad panel to fit and all wiring to reconnect. Clutch slave to bleed should then be able to fill with coolant ready to prime it with diesel and pump oil around before going for a restart.

Excellent good job

looking good, i bet you cant wait! that feeling when she first fires up is awesome

Always a scary time fireing up after a rebuild. I like to crank the engine with the glows removed until the oil light goes out.

Got that in my plan injector pipes still slack at the moment and stop solenoid lead off.
Got to go get the car back from the pub where it got left last night then I will get on with it.

Well got stuck into it this morning refitted rad panel and wiring.
Tried turning engine over with starter but could not get oil pressure light to go off sender blade looked a little bit bent , luckily I had a new sender so fitted that and light then went off ok .
Primed diesel up to the injectors fitted glow plugs, air filter filled up with water and antifreeze mix.
The beast lives started 1st turn of the key a few rattles and a bit smoke on initial start but sounds ok albeit a little to high tick over.
Alternator was not generating but just needed belt tensioning again.
Slight leak at exhaust to manifold joint will need nipping up again.
Had made a video but needs editing and the free software I had downloaded for video editing now wants me to pay before I can use it.
Just got all the body work to put back floors ,doors, roof , seat belts etc
One side front side lamp and indicator not working to sort and then got to remember where I put the relays for the headlamps.

Awesome result!!

What specialist measuring tools did you use for the engine rebuild? I need to get some to start mine

Not sure if it's that awesome after a test drive today need to look at it closely in the morning had put some thinner oil in 10/w 40 whilst cold oil pressure was 50psi, after running up to temp tick over oil pressure was 25psi which was similiar to pre the breakdown , but used to rise to 45psi when driving.
Currently down at 25psi all the time will see what it is when cold in the morning.
Pulls ok but some exhaust noise maybe need to re align it.
Sounds great when just ticking over.

IamRobbie said:

What specialist measuring tools did you use for the engine rebuild? I need to get some to start mine

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I'd be interested in this too, as I'm hoping to do a proper rebuild of one sometime soon.

As mine was a damage repair lot of steps I have missed out on a total overhaul.
Took the decision that it ran ok before the hydraulic lock problem that a lot of it would be ok to run again.
Only time will tell if that was a good decision.

That psi sounds okay, that's pretty much exactly what mines is post rebuild.

Thanks Flat oil pressure was back up to 50psi when cold and exhaust is knocking on chassis so have a little more confidence that it will be alright.
Going to take out on a short trip tomorrow ,will have to make a longer set of hangers for exhaust had slotted one of them only a few weeks back to get it to clear rear of gearbox cross member but it is back in contact at that point.

Sorted exhaust hanger out last Tuesday and did a few miles in it but noise levels and bodywork vibration seemed much worse than original.
Noticed a couple of days ago that bonnet was vibrating badly , looked into it today and found latch pin captive nut on the bonnet had sheared it's little spot weld off stripped latch and bonnet from landy and welded nut back in place and refitted.
Took it for a drive and it is so much quieter , I think my repairs are going to be ok.
Going to West Woodburn Quarry with Local Landrover club next Sunday so should get a good run out.

Was not happy with this so called rubber drain on base of discovery air filter does not close properly and might have been cause of some of water ingress.
So have welded a circle of 6mm plate in the hole and tapped 1/8 gas to put a pnuematic push fit and blank into the hole , will monitor to see if any condensation build up [assume that what the rubber vent was for].
If no condensation will leave plugged.

Nope, its for releasing excess dust and the like.

In that case I can plug it altogether as I have a pre-filter fitted.

Had another look at that rubber dump valve cannot see how it could dump dust as soon as it opens the dust will be sucked back in by the air flow.
If it is for water condensing out of the air the water will gather at the low point and when engine stopped ie no suction weep out of the valve.
Relocated my intake filter to highest possible under bonnet.

You have to squeeze it to release the dust its not automatic, engine not running of course.
That's what the plastic fins are for on the element, to swirl the incoming air outwards where the heavier dust and such will settle at the bottom of the canister. It's a way of prolonging filter life .
Water drain is in the wing intake.
Nowt wrong with your pneumatic fitting idea but if I intended going deep wading I would fit a water tight bung there instead if I had a snorkle.