200tdi crank pulley questions

Hi folks, i have had a search around on the forum and think i have narrowed my problem down...anyway i will give some background incase i am wrong. I got to my mates house to find the landy making an awful noise when i pulled up so i immediately turned the engine off and when i started it it was gone. Anyway i set off home...and on the 3 mile drive it got steadily worse.

I stopped and couldnt see any loose belts etc, the last time i took the landy in i asked them to have a look at the crank pulley as it seemed very 'wobbly' he informed me that the rubber bush/damper caused this and it was nothing to worry about. Anyway looking at the crank pulley it seems loose which leads me to think that the damper has collapsed. Sound right?

I know i need to check the wudruff key behind the pulley but am i going to be able to do this easy enough at home? I have a decent tool kit but no access to a garage/heating equipment or air tools. Any help or advice would be great.

Thanks

To refit the crank bolt you'll need over 300nm of torque......thatsa lot of torque if you have no tools. To remove it you will need to lock it off with a socket and bar under the chassis and flick the key to crank it over. Then its easy to replace.....just not so easy to get the torque right when redoing it.

Righto, pretty sure i could borrow a big torque wrench from work. Take it i need to replace the crank bolt aswell? Is it worth checking for damage to the woodruff keys also? I have read about that technique, what do i disconnect to prevent the engine starting?

Just the one wire that goes to the fuel pump. I am planning on doing my cam belt this week, but I have no way of getting a torque wrench that big! How does everyOne else do it?

Find away to get at your ring gear on your flywheel then you can jam that up. even putting into gear with hand brake on will hold the crank for you to re tighten.
When i was a mechanic we use to see the crank pulley rubber give way or crack a lot. if this is all it has done then your key way should be fine. it is when the bolt is loose for the pulley it shags the woodruff pin. Make sure the drive belts are not over tightened it often leads to the crank pulley coming apart

Ok cheers for the advice Rappy, is it simple to remove the rubber when the pulley itself is off? I take it it is an external bushing rather than sealed behind the timing case?

rappy1 said:

Find away to get at your ring gear on your flywheel then you can jam that up. even putting into gear with hand brake on will hold the crank for you to re tighten.

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I won't kno when it is the correct torque tho will I?? The engine is out of the landy at the mo aswel, so getting it off might be impossible!

alibream said:

Ok cheers for the advice Rappy, is it simple to remove the rubber when the pulley itself is off? I take it it is an external bushing rather than sealed behind the timing case?

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The damper is part of the pulley, if gone you will need to change the unit.

When I did my cambelt I removed the starter and jammed the ring gear with a big screwdriver and tightened the bolt as much as I could without giving myself a hernia, it's held like that for the last 40,000 miles.

Lee

Karlos28 said:

I won't kno when it is the correct torque tho will I?? The engine is out of the landy at the mo aswel, so getting it off might be impossible!

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it will be easier to do it with the engine out you can hold the flywheel much easier and get the the crank easier

If you cant get hold of a torque wrench do it FT

Ive always done mine up with an air gun
Last one of mine id did i done up with the cordless gun and marked the bolt and pulley and 2 weeks later i noticed the marks had moved.
So spanner and hammer on the job mark it again and its hasnt moved since.


Lynall

hi to do it properley you need this tool
4x4 Store
i have the set and you take the 4 10mm head bolts out of the pully and attch the tool with 4 bolts provided and it locks it up then you use torque wrench andf scokt thru the gole in the tool if you not tht for from me al let you lend it m8

saxokid18 said:

hi to do it properley you need this tool
4x4 Store
i have the set and you take the 4 10mm head bolts out of the pully and attch the tool with 4 bolts provided and it locks it up then you use torque wrench andf scokt thru the gole in the tool if you not tht for from me al let you lend it m8

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I made my own out of some steel plate....cost £0

tbh i use it a fair bit in garage doin timin belts all the time so its became a piece kit i cant do without when doin timin belts as it fits the old engines and 200s 300s n v8s

Ok so i have managed to get the pulley off...as i expected the bolt was loose, saved me the hastle of getting it off but then confirmed the fact that the Woodruff key had seen better days, does this look like it can be repaired to anyone? from what i can see it hasnt come out fully but has twisted. So i am guessing the next stage is to inspect the second woodruff key...correct? If this has gone then whats the chance of the belt having died too? Im thinking the worst now....

£74 for the tool is a good way to getting a decent battery gun to remove all nuts and bolts not just crank pulley bolt ,the main problem with 200 tdi is crank is same as earlier cranks and keys arent situated well for front pulley,if rear key way damaged its as cheap to swap stripped motor or another

mark-d said:

it will be easier to do it with the engine out you can hold the flywheel much easier and get the the crank easier

If you cant get hold of a torque wrench do it FT

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Nice one fella, ****ing Tight it is! ;-)

Good idea with the marks aswell lynall!

Oil change and a new timing belt for my 300tdi are the next mechanical things to do on mine. If I lock the flywheel will the crank nut come off with an air gun?

if you use an air or battery gun of siutable power it wont need locking,they work with hammer action unlike air ratchettes so dont apply direct torque,

Ok so i guess i need to take the casing off the front of the engine, how easy is this, do i need to remove the alternator and pumps then just remove the case or does it have puller bolts? thanks

i usually remove top of rad frame and pull out rad easy enough and makes life easier,once undone casing will pull of easily