The whole job is long winded if I'm honest. I did the head swap in a couple of days, not full days though.
Special tools needed are the cam timing tools. You'll also need a set of E Torx sockets (Female Torx), and unless you're 6'6, you'll need something to stand on to reach down the back of the engine.
I strip it from front to back, which gets most of the suff that is in the way of EGR and exhaust manifold out the way. The exhaust manifold requires the removal of the studs in the head, then it can be lifted straight up. It also helps to remove the engine bay bulkhead panel, to give more room down the back.
It's a lot of work, which needs a careful and methodical approach, to avoid complications half way through.
Because the timing belt is being removed, you'll need to remove the starter and fit the timing tools. You must also fit a flywheel locking tool in place of the starter, so the flywheel can't turn when you loosen the bottom pulley bolt. Be warned that these can be extremely difficult to remove, and sometimes break too which makes a whole world of pain to deal with.
Get lots of zip lock bags and label them for components removed. I group bolts together in bags, to prevent mixing them up, as there are lots of different fixings used.
Every cam follower and hydraulic tappet needs to be labelled in separate bags, so they go back from whence they came. If it has a noisy tappet or two, it's worth getting a few new replacement rockers (they're not expensive), as they are known to wear at the valve end, or the spring go loose on the other.
The fuel rail is best removed with the injectors all in one unit if possible, as this saves buying new injector pipes. However sometimes the injectors can seize in solid, in which case you'll have to remove the fuel rail first, but only release the injector ends of the pipes.
You'll need to support the engine from below at the hight you want to work at, as the RH support mount needs releasing from the head. The the ancillary support bracket also needs some of the upper bolts removing, as those go into the head.
Take lots of pictures as you go, and print out the manual for procedures, torque settings/sequences and sealant specifications needed for the job.
Also make sure to get the correct thickness head gasket, there are holes to identify thickness in the tabs, so get the same as what came out, and get an OE, gasket which I didn't.
You'll also need a new timing belt kit, and it's sensible to replace stuff that is otherwise hard to get at with the head in place, like the thermal control module (thermostat).
I didn't and I'm thinking mine isn't opening correctly, causing my boiling issue, at least I'd like it to the case, I fear not However.
Good luck, and ask if you need to know anything else.
