2008 FL not starting when warm

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Posts
37
Location
cambridgeshire
Hi folks,
I have a 2008 Freelander 2 HSE which is already on borrowed time thanks to a persistent battery drain issue which 3 garages have failed to pin down. However, having gone out to look at a new car with a view to p/xing this one, I seem to have angered it even more. The drive back from the *other* car place I stopped off on the way home and on trying to start the car again it did nothing. This is a key fob in slot start, usually when you've unlocked the car there's a green light alongside the fob slot which is illuminated and when you start to push the fob in it clicks and is pulled in automatically. I pushed the key in, the green light went off and nothing happened. Pressing the start button did nothing. Pushing the key again in order to get it to eject also did nothing so I had to forcefully pull it out. I must have forcefully pushed it in and pulled it out 5-6 times, sometimes something illuminated (the radio display or the HDC system fault message), but it was still essentially dead. After umpteen times of doing this it suddenly worked fine and started.
I was hoping this was a random one time fault (I know, naive optimism), but today it did it again. Cold start was fine, we did just over 100 miles and then I parked up for about 5 minutes and when I tried to start it again the same thing happened. After a wrestling match with the key to get it out each time I tried it and it failed to eject, it suddenly just worked.
Has anyone else had this? I've had a quick google and some suggestions seem to be the main battery or the battery in the key fob. I do have two key fobs so my plan tomorrow is to use the other fob and take it for a drive to see if the same happens with it.
In terms of main battery, a brand new Landrover AMG battery was fitted about 6 months ago. This was thought initially to have cured the flat battery issue (2 new batteries in 12 months), but after 2 weeks of standing idle this had dropped to 0.47V of charge. I'm now checking the charge reading regularly with a multimeter and putting it on trickle charge as soon as it starts to drop.
I'm aware of the class action in the States over FL persistent battery drain, but none of the LR garages it's been to here seem to know anything about it.
 
I have had two batteries in eighteen months they showed 12 volts at the battery and 14.4 when engine is running,
this one has the little green ball in the battery to say it is charged but it seems to show half black half green now.
had both batteries checked and neither were showing correct cranking amps,alternator also checked and is showing correct charge rate.
I can usually tell when battery is low because it keeps spitting the key back at me until I lose my rag and slam the fob back in then it seems ok.
baffled me and the mechanics.let us know if you find a solution to this problem because it`s doing my head in cheers.
 
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