2004 on TD4 Engine undertray removal

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JonFre

Active Member
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557
I am needing to remove the engine undertray to do an oil change. I can
get at the two 10mm bolts holding the 2 brackets at the rear also the
2 pairs of 17mm bolts again toward the rear. At the front is 4 small
self tappers holding part of the front fairing to the undertray but I
assume there are bolts concealed at the front which I cannot find. The fixings
at the front are different, I think, to the earlier model.
I have wondered about sucking out the oil via the dipstick hole if all
else fails but the units for this are about £70.
Comments would be appreciated. John
 
Havent taken the undertray orfe from the new models,

On the front valance, Are the self tappers scrivets?

Just drill them and fit a decent bolt and wing nut
 
Thank you Sean for the early start to the season of goodwill. I have not yet come across the subject on post 2004 models in a search. John.
 
The self tappers come out easily, my problem is finding the bolts at the front. John.
 
The undertray comes off without too much trouble............I did it n I'm a woman..........so I'm sure you can do it!

Hmmm that reminds me it's still off..........I should put it back really :)

found this , i know its not much help, but theres nothing like a challange

good luck :D
 
on the 05 model you undo the bottom of the front bumper, pull it down a little and you should see the bolts holding the tray in place 13 mm if my fading memory serves me, better undoing these first then the rear bolts. I read on here some where about cutting a hole in the tray where the sump bolt is so future oil changes don't need the tray removing. Bogwaller
 
Many thanks Bogwaller, I will try tomorrow. All the rear bolts are easy now as they have been removed, greased and replaced awaiting removal again when I find the front ones. John.
 
I have wondered about sucking out the oil via the dipstick hole if all
else fails but the units for this are about £70.
Comments would be appreciated. John

nice idea, one I considered myself. but decided against it mainly because you can't tell if the tube on the vacuum tool has gone to the bottom of the sump or somewhere else, and then you won't know if you have got all the old oil out. Sump plug every time for me. Might be awkward, but at least you have the satisfaction of knowing you've got as much oil out as possible. This particularly becomes an issue if you use a flushing oil prior to changing the oil

Good luck
 
Many thanks Bogwaller, I will try tomorrow. All the rear bolts are easy now as they have been removed, greased and replaced awaiting removal again when I find the front ones. John.

I always thought oil changes were easy to do but then I bought a Freelander.........
For the record the tray is now back on with an access hole for the sump plug and a new filter and clean oil. To get at the front two holding bolts I removed the two pairs of self tappers, just in front of the wheels, which secure the small arch liners. Then with the four small threaded screws holding the front fairing to the tray removed I sprung the fairing down and fitted a 2" spacer to hold it clear. Thro this 2" gap I used a 13mm flexi head ratchet spanner to loosen the front bolts. They were extremely tight and without the right spanners would have been a problem. Once this was done removal of the rear bolts was easy and the tray was off.
I did not raise the car at all and did the job in a dark garage with a lead light, neither of these factors helped. I am certain the tray has never been off before and still wonder if a £40 suction extractor from Screwfix would have made more sense.
Thank you all for your suggestions, its nice to know one can ask for help when one is struggling. John.
 
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