2002 p38 non starting

Theres a post on here somewhere re:non starting.had this a few years ago and theres a sequence of turning on ignition pumping pedal 6 or 7 times and repeating x amount of times.i also had a leaky injector replaced.

steviebhoy81 said:

Theres a post on here somewhere re:non starting.had this a few years ago and theres a sequence of turning on ignition pumping pedal 6 or 7 times and repeating x amount of times.i also had a leaky injector replaced.

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On a fly by wire electronic throttle, pumping the pedal would do exactly what?

wammers said:

On a fly by wire electronic throttle, pumping the pedal would do exactly what?

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I must say, I did think that but I don't know enough about the diesel to know if there is any mechanical link to the pump.
It certainly sounds like an old wives tale but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it.
Last post I saw from you, you were feeling a bit rough, hope you're getting better.

I can’t seem to generate enough charge from a jump start to my Range Rover the key fob locks and unlocks doors ok except I’ve got another problem other than it not starting the boot won’t unlock now

Wayne burgess said:

I can’t seem to generate enough charge from a jump start to my Range Rover the key fob locks and unlocks doors ok except I’ve got another problem other than it not starting the boot won’t unlock now

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Set fire to the fecker.

I’ve thought about it let me tell ya lol...

What are your jump leads like? Check the earth leads from the battery to the chassis and the engine block ,and the positive lead
to the starter motor

This battery drain has only started since it wouldn’t start it’s a strange one be honest

Wayne burgess said:

This battery drain has only started since it wouldn’t start it’s a strange one be honest

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I defer to post#45

Post 45?

This is post 51, your last was post 50,see bottom right hand side and it tells you the #post number

Did you check lift pump for function? Did you check glow plugs? Did you have battery shunt tested?

it sound like the battery is US and is shorting internally so that the jump start will not work. see f you can borrow a battery that is good and tr it or even take the battey and have it tested under load.

If the battery is no good then it won't start. The starter needs to be spinning quite fast before the ECU will allow it to fire. And that battery drain issue doesn't sound good. So that will need sorting. If you haven't got the 3rd generation RF receiver then do Brian's 2 fob trick. There's an electrical troubleshooting guide on RR.net, print it out and work through it. Link here: http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...22/20369-info-electrical-troubleshooting.html

Take the leads off the battery (key in you pocket, driver's door unlocked and open) and then give it a damn good charge. You need a decent battery in the beast. I've got the Platinum 642X in mine and can highly recommend it. Got mine from HTS spares but you need a business address for it to be delivered to.

You say fuel is arriving at the injectors so the lift pump is good.

There was mention of glow-plugs. Did you check them because it needs good glow-plugs to fire, especially as the nights get cooler.

And low volts can cause it to go out of sync but without a Nanocom or similar you're stuffed. The things above won't be wasted time as they'll stop it happening again if it has lost sync. Well, maybe not the glows but with winter coming up I'd be thinking of doing those anyway. Delphi or Beru are good brands.

@martyuk rents out syncmates if it has lost sync. I'd bite the bullet and buy a Nanocom if you're keeping the car.

If you are disconnecting the battery do it as per the book,ie. loosen the earth lead bolt, turn on ignition,turn off and remove earth lead within 17 seconds.

In the battery issue the battery is less than 3 months old costing £90 so I can’t seeing it being faulty it’s an exide one too yes had mechanic come out and he said I’m getting fuel at injectors so think I’m going take battery off and charge it and replace glow plugs and go from there ...I’m still thinking it’s a becm problem myself only thing in the back of my mind I read up on here soneone saying if I’ve lost sync between the becm to ecu I would get no check engine light on the dash at all but check light comes on on key position 2 then goes out once it’s cranking ....as I say it’s always been hard starting the past 3 weeks then now it’s cranking that’s it not firing so agen if it were the becm was that a sign of it failing the fact it was hard start at times etc??..

Wayne burgess said:

In the battery issue the battery is less than 3 months old costing £90 so I can’t seeing it being faulty it’s an exide one too yes had mechanic come out and he said I’m getting fuel at injectors so think I’m going take battery off and charge it and replace glow plugs and go from there ...I’m still thinking it’s a becm problem myself only thing in the back of my mind I read up on here soneone saying if I’ve lost sync between the becm to ecu I would get no check engine light on the dash at all but check light comes on on key position 2 then goes out once it’s cranking ....as I say it’s always been hard starting the past 3 weeks then now it’s cranking that’s it not firing so agen if it were the becm was that a sign of it failing the fact it was hard start at times etc??..

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If you want help you need to start listening.

Ok thanks folks are the Bosch glow plugs ok ..to buy?

Wayne burgess said:

Ok thanks folks are the Bosch glow plugs ok ..to buy?

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I've fitted the Bosch glow plugs over two years ago. No problems with them. can the glow plugs be ohms tested in the engine or better out?
Any difference in resistance them replace them all!!