2002 p38 non starting

I call it range rover fear.. but I don't say LOUD!!
what have pea-ole's got to do with it?

Wayne burgess said:

The pipe your talking about is a clear pipe yes?...I can't seem to find that pipe for love or money

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It is clear (unless replaced) but often so dirty you don't know it. Check Tomcat's post.

Yes, they do lose sync, usually from RF interference (do a search for RF receiver!) but if that's happened you need a friendly member with a Nanocom to have a look for you. Must be someone near Staffs.

Listen to the others: you need good working glow plugs. They're cheap so hope it is that. CHeck the fuel pump is delivering enough fuel: there's a how to in the Technical Section.

Have you downloaded RAVE yet? If not, do so!

Ok thanks the blackbox solutions looks a good bit of kit if it has lost sync

Wayne burgess said:

I'm probably over doing with the forums but a lot of peaole taking about losing sync the becm ??..

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You say it starts sometimes,if it had lost sync it would never start.

You need to methodical, don't be jumping from one possible fault to another without eliminating the first.

tomcat59alan said:

You need to methodical, don't be jumping from one possible fault to another without eliminating the first.

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Oh you ARE getting good at this.

Wayne burgess said:

The pipe your talking about is a clear pipe yes?...I can't seem to find that pipe for love or money

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Clear plastic pipe from front of filter to injection pump. First of all check that there is no air in that pipe. If there is it's odds on that the lift pump is either duff or not being powered. Pump is powered by relay 12 from fuse 29 20 amp. It should be powered on your model when glow lamp is on, when cranking or with engine running. Look in tech archive for method of powering lift pump with ignition off to check for flow. If there are air bubbles in clear pipe and power is applied to terminal five of relay 12 socket air should move if it does not pump is duff.

wammers said:

Oh you ARE getting good at this.

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Well you have been quiet so I had to pick up the batton.

Update on things had a friend who owns a garage look at it today went over it getting diesel at injectors most noticeable thing now is how fast it's draining the battery even had jump leads from his van to mine and a booster cudnt seem to generate enuf to get a good turn over on engine he plugged it in on diagnostic coming up anti theft system

Wayne burgess said:

Update on things had a friend who owns a garage look at it today went over it getting diesel at injectors most noticeable thing now is how fast it's draining the battery even had jump leads from his van to mine and a booster cudnt seem to generate enuf to get a good turn over on engine he plugged it in on diagnostic coming up anti theft system

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If battery volts are low you'll get all sorts of **** codes. Good battery, check all cables asper elelectrical troubleshooting guide on rr.net and check the RF receiverbefore going any further. Has to spin fast before it can fire.

If I lose sync from my key to becm etc would my key fob not work at all as I've got the eka code in my paperwork and was wondering once I've charged battery if entering the code is worth a try?

Wayne burgess said:

If I lose sync from my key to becm etc would my key fob not work at all as I've got the eka code in my paperwork and was wondering once I've charged battery if entering the code is worth a try?

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Unless you have a "Engine disabled" message on the dash EKA code will do nothing for you other than remove it. Fob CANNOT be synced to car until EKA code has been accepted and "Engine disabled" message has gone. EKA code has nothing to do with engine ECU to BECM syncing. If ECU to BECM syncing was the problem you would not get any fuel at the injectors, as the ECU is switched off. If you have established that the lift pump is working next step is to get a good battery and check glow plugs. You need at least three consecutively firing cylinders with good plugs to get a start. Even then start will be lumpy for the first few seconds of running. A good battery is paramount.

Well I've got no engine disabled message on dash the key fob works etc I'm jst getting really bad battery drain at the minute is it worth unplugging the blue wire plug rf?

If the battery drain is the rf receiver then this is a cheep fix LR want £240 for the uprated one.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/rf-reciever-work-round.258096/

I had it plugged in yesterday and came up anti theft signal code 45?

Using snap on diagnostic should I get second opinion. ?

If u av lost sync from becm to ecu do u get no engine light on key position 2 or?..as i still get mine still turns over still not firing up

Wayne burgess said:

If u av lost sync from becm to ecu do u get no engine light on key position 2 or?..as i still get mine still turns over still not firing up

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if the engine management and BECM are out of sync then it will crank but not fire. Or mine did at least.

Ye that's wa I'm getting cranking but not firing but I'm a bit confused because it's always been hard start at times so I jst thought it was something failing and now it's failed if indeed it is a becm problem failing would I get symptoms like I had then obviously it's failed completely ??..I have read on here somewhere if the becm was at fault I'd get no engine light on position 2 before starting which I'm still getting engine light as normal and all other normal lights then they all go out as I'm cranking ?

tomcat59alan said:

You say it starts sometimes,if it had lost sync it would never start.

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It turns over but wont fire it won't start