2001 p38

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The Stealers are very poor anyway when it comes to P38 I went to get some touch up paint for my car. They checked it out from the VIN. It is obsolete they said. But the paint is the same colour as used on some of the L322's I got some off the net no problem.

To be fair some of them weren't even born when the car was made.

Keys have to come from Huff in Germany although there are a few people who can clone an existing key. This isn't recommended as each clone will knock the other clone out of sync. MrSporty can capture the code emitted by the fob and so can MartyUK and I suspect Classic Rides North Wales. The end of each code emitted by the fob identifies which fob it is (1,2,3,4) which is why the dealer asks which number fob(s) you already have. It may be possible to capture the code, xhange the number on the end and use rhat to reprogram an existing fob but only the 3 people above have the means to do it that I know of. Rick-the-Pick might be able to but I think he specialises more in the BECM area.
 
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:D
 
Well done that man, the Boss is talking about replacing ours with an orangery FFS.

Very nice
mine was £600 off of faceache but double that for all the bricks and stuff, the lady we got it from was putting up an orangery the husband said he lost that argument:D i mean whats the difference more glass:eek:
we needed more space as the wife is working from home doing on line lessons till 9.30pm and was using the kitchen dinner:(
 
Very nice
mine was £600 off of faceache but double that for all the bricks and stuff, the lady we got it from was putting up an orangery the husband said he lost that argument:D i mean whats the difference more glass:eek:
we needed more space as the wife is working from home doing on line lessons till 9.30pm and was using the kitchen dinner:(
I know how the husband feels.:rolleyes: The concervatory keeps the TV room warm even with a bit of sun in the winter. It's the smallest and most used room in the house. Her reasoning is an orangery would span the whole of the rear of the property so would warm up two extra rooms.:rolleyes:
 
Just had an update via pm,'s handle and lock work but still having problems entering the eka code. I've given two of the usual problems but hopefully the OP will ask the open forum as I may have missed something.;):D
This is what I've advised so far, 1 door latch microswitches, 2wrong EKA code 3 A post connectors. Have I missed anything?
 
Those are indeed all the usual-suspects.
The only other thing I can think of is if the EKA he is getting off the LR org is for the VIN and someone has swapped the BeCM at some point so it has a mis-match?
Is there no-one local with a suitable Nanocom to unlock it all?
 
Those are indeed all the usual-suspects.
The only other thing I can think of is if the EKA he is getting off the LR org is for the VIN and someone has swapped the BeCM at some point so it has a mis-match?
Is there no-one local with a suitable Nanocom to unlock it all?
Thanks Dan, I've asked him to rejoin the discussion so everyone can see firsthand what the problem is and save me recounting the messages I'm getting.
 
He did but started a new fred;)
Engine disabled HELP PLS | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

@Broonone you would do better to keep it all in the same fred:)
"Hi now have a new door lock and key which work on locking drivers door but not locking the central locking. I don't have a key fob so still unable to input the EKA code via the door lock. Suggestions please.Tony"

Sounds like micro switches in the door lock/latch mech. If its only locking the drivers door an no others.

Next step is go back to the cheat sheet of Dans with the pics in to see which wires to short to make the car think the micro switches are switching:D.

J
 
He did but started a new fred;)
Engine disabled HELP PLS | LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

@Broonone you would do better to keep it all in the same fred:)
"Hi now have a new door lock and key which work on locking drivers door but not locking the central locking. I don't have a key fob so still unable to input the EKA code via the door lock. Suggestions please.Tony"

Sounds like micro switches in the door lock/latch mech. If its only locking the drivers door an no others.

Next step is go back to the cheat sheet of Dans with the pics in to see which wires to short to make the car think the micro switches are switching:D.

J
I've passed his phone number on to @mozz smith to see if he can help. When I spoke to him I asked him if the key he had for the ignition started the car he said it did until he charged the battery and blew it up.:eek::eek::eek: God knows if the ECU,'s survived:rolleyes: full disclosure is paramount.:D:D
 
charged the battery and blew it up
How?
Took it off the car to charge and connected it back on the wrong-way round?
Put jump leads from another vehicle/battery on the wrong way round?
If he doesn't have an actual FOB and only the ignition/doorlock key blade then he cannot take advantage of the passive immobilisation/remobilisation from the column-coil and his remaining options are:
  • correctly entering a valid EKA code on the doorlock switches.
  • or entering the EKA code via Nanocom.
  • Once you are doing Nanocom magic you might as well remove all the security options.
 
How?
Took it off the car to charge and connected it back on the wrong-way round?
Put jump leads from another vehicle/battery on the wrong way round?
If he doesn't have an actual FOB and only the ignition/doorlock key blade then he cannot take advantage of the passive immobilisation/remobilisation from the column-coil and his remaining options are:
  • correctly entering a valid EKA code on the doorlock switches.

  • or entering the EKA code via Nanocom.
  • Once you are doing Nanocom magic you might as well remove all the security options.
That's why I sent him a door handle and key so he/his garage could enter the code , don't think the garage has a clue so I phoned him and he dropped the bombshell about the battery. I've left him in Mozz's capable hands. The good news is that he can lock the driver's door now.
 
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