2000 DHSE fuel leak

All has been well since having the fuel pump changed. Running smooth starting fine but noticed a few leaks so had a few seals replaced, had both the gear oil cooler pipes replaced and engine oil cooler change, they were all leaking... Now the only thing leaking is diesel. Seems to be coming from back of FIP. Removed checked and refitted all the fuel pipes lastnight but its not made a bit of difference. It's coming from that's area but pretty sure it's not the pipes.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Shaun

I have lots of thoughts but i must refrain...

Haha.

Like what??

Could be O'Ring around pressure head. DO NOT attempt to change it unless you really know how to do it.

wammers said:

Could be O'Ring around pressure head. DO NOT attempt to change it unless you really know how to do it.

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Is that the seal on the top part of the pump Tony??

If it is, that was going to be my suggestion, if not - it is my suggestion

Saint.V8 said:

Is that the seal on the top part of the pump Tony??

If it is, that was going to be my suggestion, if not - it is my suggestion

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No Ant, the O'ring around the pressure head that the delivery valves and pipes fit to. You have to use a procedure to change it. It has to be done correctly or you can drop the thrust washer between the cam plate and piston. Leak from pump top or middle section would be pretty obvious.

Thanks for the replies

If I'm thinking of the same thing your talking about? (The pressure head) if I put my finger down on the bottom of that there's lots of diesel dripping off the bottom corner of that.

shaunm41 said:

Thanks for the replies

If I'm thinking of the same thing your talking about? (The pressure head) if I put my finger down on the bottom of that there's lots of diesel dripping off the bottom corner of that.

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I can describe how to change the O'ring. But you would need a good DTI with adaptor and great care.

Thanks but given the price of a new pump if it goes wrong I think I will send it in to garage

shaunm41 said:

Thanks but given the price of a new pump if it goes wrong I think I will send it in to garage

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They would also have to know how to do it. It is actually a straight forward fairly easy job but needs to be done a certain way.

What special tools would be needed? And where can I get the o-ring

We have a diesel specialist 10 mins away (feather diesel in elland) wonder if they would be able to do it? I know their expensive tho

shaunm41 said:

What special tools would be needed? And where can I get the o-ring

We have a diesel specialist 10 mins away (feather diesel in elland) wonder if they would be able to do it? I know their expensive tho

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It would take a couple of hours to do. If they are a specialist they should know the short method as opposed to removing and stripping pump. You would need a timing adaptor and a DTI with 10 or 12 mm travel. Can be done with a short travel DTI but a ball ache. Basically you have to have the pump on full cam so pressure is being applied to the piston to hold the thrust washer in place as you change the O'ring. That is what you need the DTI to measure. Remove manifold. Remove steady bracket and injection pipes. Put DTI adaptor in pump and insert DTI until it JUST touches piston. Lock in place. Turn engine clockwise, DTI will rise, then continue to turn until DTI JUST starts to drop by a few thou. Pump is on full cam. Then you remove all but two of the bolts holding the pressure head. Some bolts are shorter than others you have to swap them so the two longest bolts are used to allow the pressure head to come out of the pump under spring pressure from the cam as you undo the bolts evenly until you can JUST get the O'ring out. There MUST be at least one bolt in place at all times. Or pressure head will leave pump. Then you take one of the two remaining bolts out and stretch silicone greased O'ring over pressure head, drop it into it's groove at one side and replace the bolt until it just touches. Then hook O'ring so it is clear of other bolt and take it out. Drop O'ring into it's groove replace bolt and progressively nip bolts up evenly to push pressure head back into pump. Put correct bolts back where they came from and tighten up. Reassemble injector pipes and bracket replace manifold.

Pin holes have been known in the injector pipes, worth a look before you spend on the FIP.

Thanks very much for that

That does seem too technical for me tho. I doubt I would be able to manage that without something going wrong.

Nipped it up to landrover garage and he seems to think its something to do with where the timing pin goes right in the middle of the pipes on back of pump

shaunm41 said:

Nipped it up to landrover garage and he seems to think its something to do with where the timing pin goes right in the middle of the pipes on back of pump

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Two penny washer then.

So he says yeah.. Plus £75 labour and a special tool he needs to borrow from diesel centre

shaunm41 said:

So he says yeah.. Plus £75 labour and a special tool he needs to borrow from diesel centre

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Only special tool i can think he may need is a injection pipe socket. Every good mechanic should have one of those. So what does he say he needs to borrow. Can't think he would need one anyway, you don't need to remove all the pipes to undo a 12 mm bolt and fit a new washer on it. A 17 mm tube nut spanner will remove what he needs to take off.

He didnt say what he needed.

Where could I get the o ring from? I might just try do it myself

There are also two side oval shape side gaskets they can leak too get yourself a mirror for a better view the passenger side one can be done in situ the other side closest to engine can't
At least have a look if the pump has to come off from a garage you might as well get it reconditioned for the cost of having it out.